Question about KitchenAid 24 in. KUDI01TJ - Multiple Color Built-in Dishwasher

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Noisy kitchenaid dishwasher during filling

How do i change water inlet value. also, how do i clean the water inlet opening on side wall

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  • joe merigold Jul 13, 2007

    Before I do this, I want to make sure it's the problem. Seems like I'm not getting enough water. dishes remain dirty, and the detergent is barely used. Is this my problem? code 72 is on the readout.

  • joe merigold Jul 14, 2007

    I got the spray arm off and took out 3 screws. What else do I need to do to remove the strainer.


  • joe merigold Jul 14, 2007

    I've taken off the lower spray arm and 3 screws. What is next to get the strainer out. Thanks

  • joe merigold Jul 15, 2007

    There are 4 screws, but the screw towards the back is covered by the piece that extends backwards and connects to the piece that extends up to the upper spray arm. How's that for technical? How do I remove that pice to get to the other screw?

  • joe merigold Jul 15, 2007

    The piece I'm talking about is called the cap, internal rear feed. I need to get that off to take off the strainer.

  • joe merigold Jul 15, 2007

    Thanks, I got it off. No clog. Now I just have to wait for the fill value to arrive on Tues.

  • joe merigold Jul 19, 2007

    So now what. I replaced the fill value. I removed the lower spray arm and checked the impellar. No clogs. Even cleaned the water inlet on the side. When I turn it on, water fills the bottom, then heats up. And then, nothing. The timer just counts down. The sprays don't kick in. Before I started this whole process, the sprays were working. What did I do wrong?

  • joe merigold Jul 19, 2007

    would the wires switched to the fill value be causing this? Doesn't make sense since the tub does fill.

  • joe merigold Jul 19, 2007

    After the fill, you hear a click, and then a hummming sound. kind of like a motor that wants to run. This must be the spray cycle. But nothing. What could I have done in removing the spray arms. All 4 screws went back in for the impellar cover. I'm lost.



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Fill valve replacement should be fairly simple. Most dishwashers are constructed in a similar manner, so although these steps are generic, it should lead you in the right direction: 1. Remove the lower kick panel right below the dishwasher door. The fill valve should be located in the front of the dishwasher on the left hand side. 2. Turn off the water supply line. 3. Turn off the circuit breaker to the dishwasher or unplug the unit as necessary to secure power. 4. Carefully remove the two wire connectors going to the fill valve solenoid. These wires are delicate, so be careful with them. 5. Leave the fill valve attached to the mounting plate in order to loosen the supply line. Once you have the supply line loosened you can remove the valve from the mounting plate by removing either one or two screws. 6. With the supply line disconnected, wires removed and the valve removed from the mounting plate, you can now remove the secondary water line that goes into the wash tub. It is usually behind the valve and easier to access if you can pull the valve out far enough the reach it. 7. Make sure you put teflon on all your threads BEFORE you re-install. 8. Installation is in the reverse of what I just explained to you. You should not have to remove the dishwasher from under the counter, but you can if it makes access easier. It's that easy. Just make sure you check your water lines for leaks BEFORE re-installing the kick plate. And, make sure you reconnect the wires properly. Good luck. I hope this helps you.

Posted on Jul 10, 2007

  • 2 more comments 
  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 11, 2007

    If you're talking about the inlet on the side of the dishwasher case, you need to remove the hose, first. Then, look inside with a flashlight (if you can) to see if you have any sediment build up. If this inlet gets clogged the dishwasher will leak. I personally had to use a small screwdriver to fish around in the inlet opening to break a chunk of hard water mineral deposits. Something you may try. This inlet is not removable and if damaged, the whole tub generally has to be replaced. A lot of work for one small problem.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 14, 2007

    You could have a clog in the main wash pump. This is a common symptom. The tub should fill with water to just below the heating element. The main wash pump will then take over and distribute water through the spray arm(s). If the wash pump is restricted in any way, you won't get enough pressure through the spray arm(s), which in turn, will not dissolve detergent, and will not get your dishes clean. If the tub is filling to the proper level, I would suspect you have a clog somewhere. You will need to remove the lower spray arm and the coarse strainer to get to the impeller area of the wash pump. Check for any obstructions. Let me know if this helps.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 14, 2007

    I thought the strainer had 4 screws, but I could be wrong. The strainer SHOULD just lift out exposing the impeller port to the main wash pump. Sometimes the strainer has to twist off. It's hard for me to tell just by the model number. Once you get to the impeller area, there may be an additional cover that you need to remove to get to the impeller. This usually has one or two screws holding it in as well. Let me know if you are successful.

  • Jeff Rockwell
    Jeff Rockwell Jul 15, 2007

    It should twist in a cw direction and lift off. There will be a gasket underneath. Make sure you don't lose it. I'm assuming you have an upper spray arm too(?). If so you will need to separate the upper spray assembly from the tub by carefully removing the assembly from the retaining clips at the top and rear of the tub. You will need to do this BEFORE you can attempt to turn the cap. That way the whole assembly turns at the same time. Its a little awkward, but take your time. There will be a fourth screw under the cap holding the strainer on. Sorry to take so long getting back to you. I hope this helps.



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