Subzero 700BR Refridgerated Drawers Not Cooling

Unplug the unit and take out all the drawers and remove the back (behind the drawers) panel carefully. (This back panel has foamy thermal insulation behind it and this will be probably be enmeshed with ice - you may have to wait awhile for this ice to melt before you can remove the panel, even after you have unscrewed it.
When you have got the back panel off, you will see a large solid block of ice, probably halfway up the cooling coils, right down to the bottom of the exposed space. You have to melt all this ice (I used a hair dryer to blow warm air onto the ice (have towels and a bucket ready to mop up the melted water, otherwise it will run over the floor. When you have melted all this ice, you will see a drain hole at the bottom of the exposed space. This will have ice in it and it must be cleared.
Then replace the back panel and all should be OK.
The panel bulges because ice/water is accumulating behind the panel, water, when it freezes, expands, forcing the panel forwards.
I reckon it's a Hotpoint Design fault. What is supposed to happen is that during the heating cycle, melted ice drops down from the cooling coils and down the drain hole onto a plate over the compressor unit, where it evaporates. BUT, during the cooling cycle, a fan circulates cold air from the cooling coils, through the entire unit, which includes the chamber behind the panel that is below the coils. Thus this chamber gets cold (-18 deg.C) so that water dripping down during the heating cycle is frozen before it has a chance to fall down the drain hole.
I now defrost in this manner every six months or so. Sadly, very sadly, Hotpoint, like other white goods manufacturers (Baxi Potterton boilers for instance) do not reply to my enquiries.
Hope this helps.

Subzero freezer: We had all our drawers stuck, including the ice drawer. We turned off the refrigerator, took all the drawers out and defrosted the rails with a hair dryer. The ice drawer was misaligned, so we reset the allen screws on the left to be the correct width. All better!

Hi,

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heatman101

Good day,
Look under the front kick plate (grille). You will have to remove it. If not there, look for an embossed plate inside the fresh food compartment. It may be covered by drawers, so you will have to look.
A general rule is it is located in a place that would not require you to move the machine, and it is never on a door, because they can be replaced.

Hi,
This is a problem with freezers that have their drain outlet blocked.
Clean the doorseals anyway with a warm cloth and soapy water, then remove inner drawers. There should be an access panel at the rear to remove, and this will reveal the cooling coils and the drain at the bottom of these. You will need a short length of wire to clear the pipe. Make sure power is off while you do this.

call service

Has the refrigerator got a wet inner back?
Ff this is wet, adjust it until this solid ice 'blobs', bt not encrusted, like in a freezer
The refrigerator may not be cool enough and the natural warm moisture allowed into the cool compartment when the door is open is condensing into fluid before it is cooling sufficiently to suspend the moisture as a vapour. If the cool compartment is cool enough, any warm air admitted ill be chilled before it is allowed to condense, keeping the refridgerator dry.
However, the only drawback is that you will have to monitor it to prevent the build up of excesive ice.
Also, whether the refridgerator is either empty of full willaffe the day to day operation.
Hope this helps.

No. There is, however, a drain hole in the back center that tends to get plugged. Remove the lower two drawers and see if it is plugged. It drains to a pan under the unitand behind the kickpanel

Call a servicer to determine if a mullion heater is called for.

1. check the comp. working touch the top of the comp. 2.if the motor comp. working touch the high side tube of the motor comp. if to hot the freon is ok. 3. check the cooling fan inside.