Why does the reset button continue to trip

SOURCE: camper fridge will not cool down(unsure of model)

ok firstly if you remove the element and give it 110v does it warm up if it warm up and still not making the fridge cold the propane chemicals are not right any more

SOURCE: Dometic RM2652 Refrigerator Problem

Check the flu at the back is clean

Terence Fourie

• 909 Answers
• Posted on Nov 12, 2009

SOURCE: We have a 3 way Dometic fridge in our caravan.

Temperature does play a big part in the efficiency of the fridge. The condenser at the back of the fridge needs cool air flow to allow gas vapour to be converted back into a liquid.again.

Testimonial: "Tks Guru, BikerT. To prove that you are right - since the weather/heatwave has gone - a nice cool morning today and I have frozen milk. Cheers, "

SOURCE: have a dmetic rm 2652, have power in fridge but no

On most Dometics, When you have a cooling problem follow these steps and it will resolve your problem or at least tell you what is wrong.
Check main terminal Block for proper Voltage
Check Heating element for proper ohms, 2652 is 44ohms
Disconnect P-2 wire on board for approximately 12 to 18 hrs. This makes the unit run constantly in case there is a clog in the unit.
The only other thing you may do is check the thermistor operation, Unplug the P-2, remove the thermistor from inside the refrigerator, put it in ice, You want the thermistor to drop to about 32 degrees, Check the ohms, they should be at 8,000 to 10,000 ohms.
If all checks out, you have either a bad board, not common, or a bad cooling unit, common

Kelly

• 3740 Answers
• Posted on Sep 02, 2010

SOURCE: I have a RM 2652

If your refrigerator has had a recall done on it I would check the L shaped bracket that was added as part of the recall, as it may have pinched thermal flame sensor and driving may slightly reposition it to cause an intermittent short blowing your 15 a fuse in rv panel. Remove it from the retaining fingers and slightly reposition fingers loosely around black insulation sleeve and reattach it to the previous location with the 2 sheet metal screws.
Now if the refrigerator won't come on at all check the resetable hi limit switch that is riveted to your units boiler area a few inches above your gas flame area. It has a button you can press located in between the 2 connectors.
Check for 12 VDC at the nylon terminal block in front of your main board AND on terminal J4. If power is there follow to the resetable hi limit switch on boiler. If you don't have power at all you may very well have a control board failure. You should check all 3 fuses on the control board also. So check all 4 Fuses (ONE) 15A on the RV Panel and the (THREE) fuses on the main board. If any of them are blown you can replace them ONCE only. If it blows the 15A Fuse on the RV panel again your going to have to locate the short most often from the RV panel to the main board on the refrigerator. If the fuses on the mainboard blow your going to have to troubleshoot the refrigerator wiring.

Thanks for choosing FixYa

Kelly