HOW TO REPLACE COUPLER

HEY, STEVEN, I'VE A FIX FOR YOU!

I encountered the SAME PROBLEM in recently (Spr. '18) fixing our GE washing machine. I nor my very strong friend could remove the agitator coupler cap from the drive shaft = it was impossibly stuck. WHAT DID I DO? I CUT IT OFF WITH A DREMEL. The coupler cap is a cheap part (like $12), so it was/ is sacrificial. The trick therein was to be very careful not to damage the shaft --> I cut through the cap very close to the shaft w/ the Dremel, then used a hammer + chisel for the final knock-off.

After the coupler cap was removed, THEN I FIND THE HUB NUT ALSO IMPOSSIBLY STUCK! Not even with a spanner wrench could I remove the thing. MY SOLUTION? I CUT THE HUB NUT OFF WITH THE DREMEL, TOO. Same concern therein: I'd to be very careful not to damage the drive shaft. So I employed the same process: I used the Dremel to cut as close to the shaft as seemed prudent, then chiseled off the nut with a few hammer knocks once the nut was 95% cut through. As w/ the coupler cap, the hub nut is a super cheap part to replace.

HOW DID THESE PARTS BECOME SO STUCK, YOU ASK? My only thought was that the person who'd our washer before us (we purchased it secondhand) might have used excessive amounts of powered detergent. The excessive detergent that didn't dissolve during wash cycles got lodged up between the drive shaft and agitator coupler cap/ hub nut threads & made these parts impossible to budge (seriously, my friend and I used all the leverage/ lubricant we could muster/ creatively force). Just like how grit particles can fill the gap btwn any moving parts and then seize them.

VOILA! IF YOU CAN'T REMOVE IT AS EXPECTED, (CAREFULLY) CUT IT OFF & REPLACE IT!

** 1 - The first image below shows the agitator coupler after I'd completely pulverized & removed it from the drive shaft (I'm holding the remains last to be removed). 2 - The second image shows the hub nut after I'd cut through and removed it. 3 - The third image shows the newly installed replacement hub nut & inner tub base hub (the old tub base hub was completely corroded through & the need to replace it was what initiated the entire fix). 4 - The fourth image shows the newly installed replacement agitator coupler cap. **

Agitator coupler GE front serviceable washer - YouTube

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www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Rf4RO2MGeM
Nov 3, 2011 - Uploaded by theapplianceman Agitator coupler GE front serviceable washer ... How To Repair Washing Machine Agitator - Remove And Replace AgitatorDogs - Duration: ...

Possible that the bearings are a suspect, if the machine seems to wobble around. Also if the load is high, does the noise go higher, if so check the suspension, check the mounting and the counter weights.
Please check this link: Wobbling machine

Hello,

the problem a lot of times when that happens is a broken motor coupler and a coupler is easy and cheap to replace. This video shows how to replace the coupler so watch it to see how to get to coupler to see if its broken.

http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=9K1KHEogf3c&feature=pyv&ad=5457341501&kw=washing%20machine%20coupler

I hope this helps

Gene

Hello,

the problem a lot of times when that happens is a broken motor coupler and a coupler is easy and cheap to replace. This video shows how to replace the coupler so watch it to see how to get to coupler to see if its broken.

http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=9K1KHEogf3c&feature=pyv&ad=5457341501&kw=washing%20machine%20coupler

I hope this helps

Gene

clothes are wet after spinning this is due to faulty Motor coupler. test the motor coupler, re-start the washer in its spin cycle. Let the machine run for a minute, and then open the lid and notice whether the tub is spinning:If it's spinning when you lift the lid, the coupler is fine.If not then the coupler is broken.It has to be replaced;.This plastic-and-rubber component is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. When that happens, you need to replace it completely. ----------------------- If the washer doesn't reach its proper spin speed, the clothes may be too wet at the end of a cycle. Check to be sure the load is properly balanced and run a spin cycle again. If the clothes are still wet, you may have a worn motor pulley or tub bearing. Replace the applicable component. Thanks.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


Look in the section for the motor, pump gearcase and you'll see the Motor Coupler.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

Either your motor coupler is defective or your transmission is defective.  Check it during the wash cycle if the agitator does not move then it is your motor coupler, if not it is your transmission.  To replace the motor coupler you will need to remove the casing from the machine.  The coupler is located between the motor and the transmission.

Tip machine back and look underneath between the motor and gearcase, there is a coupler that is probably broken, Replace the coupler and you are back in business