I have had the same problem and contacted SubZero and the only thing they said was "we will offer you a new refrigerator for $5000.. There is no way to fix the problem." I was appalled by their answer... Sub Zero will not stand by their products and want to force you to buy a new one a slight discount.. That is sad..
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Appliance touch-up paint will work well. Recommend some LIGHT sanding before painting to assure a good bond. VERY important that the paint is completely dry - at least a day or two, with the oven door open - before you use the oven.
Just a guess, but it is likely that moisture is causing the paint to peel. I suggest you remove as much peeling as you can with a wire brush and then use a waterproof sealant. I had very good luck with a product they sell to seal cement walls in basements with moisture problems.
I assume you want to paint it. Preparation is the key. Rustoleum has some pretty good products that look close to stainless steal. Clean the outside thoroughly. The paint will only stick well to metal surfaces. Plastics will tend to crack and peel. Tape and paper off all the parts of microwave not being painted. You will not want to get paint on labels, keypad, plastics or the door seal. Paint takes and hour to dry between coats. Practice with long strokes on something else first. Several thin coats is better than one thick one. Fumes can be strong. Outdoors without wind or a garage will be the best area to paint. Paint is oil based and you will need paint thinner( or WD-40 in a pinch ) for cleanup. I don't think painting would be wise inside the microwave. I painted my range hood, and I swear it looks like its stainless steel. I used the brushed nickel color. Good luck.
The oven cavity will probably start to rust where the paint is gone. If you're up to it, sand it and paint it with a color that matches the interior color. Other then colors, there is nothing special about paint inside a microwave.
the adjustment is out of alignment, its a safety feature so you dont get your fingers chopped off or smash the window.
you will need to remove the door card/ door trim its easy to do!
inside the door there will be a plastic cover carefully peel it back to reveal the adjustment. Its a 10mm bolt most times although Im not familiar with that model.
you just loosen it off and and move it to the correct position, you can tell where it should be as the bolt will have marked the paint on the inside of the door try to realign the bolt with the mark. that should do it
Also why you are inside the door look and make sure both runners on each side of the window are straight, and one more thing put the window half way down and check that it is sat in its rail correctly as this would also cause this fault. you will need to detach the electric window control panel from the door but once its off you will need to connect the control panel back to the wiring so you can still operate the window while getting the alignment right.
From Weber.com Don’t worry, it’s not paint. The inside surfaces of our grill lids are not painted, they are coated with baked-on porcelain enamel which cannot peel. What you are noticing is a deposit of grease and smoke that collects during normal use. During use, the grease and smoke vapors slowly oxidize into carbon and collect on the inside of your lid. This deposit will eventually peel, and looks very similar to paint. The peeling normally starts in the center of the lid and spreads outward. It may come off in sheets or flakes, and is shiny on one side and dull on the other. These carbon deposits are non-toxic. But you might want to regularly remove the build-up. Fortunately, the peeling is easy to remove. Simply brush off all loose particles with a brass brush before you start grilling. To prevent future build-up, after every grilling session, while the grill lid is warm—not hot—wipe it with paper towels or a mild soap-and-water solution.