Here are some more details: I have been tinkering with the machine (GW709AU) in order to unblock the pump. I fixed the problem, but in the process (don't ask me how, it's a long story) disrupted the plug that supplies power to the pump underneath. When I found the machine wouldn't work I discovered the plug had moved. After I plugged it back in the machined worked fine for about a week. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked the plug supplying power to the pump again, but it seems fine. Hope you can help.
Skewzyboy (Dale)Here are some more details:
I have been tinkering with the machine (GW709AU) in order to unblock the pump. I fixed the problem, but in the process (don't ask me how, it's a long story) disrupted the plug that supplies power to the pump underneath. When I found the machine wouldn't work I discovered the plug had moved. After I plugged it back in the machined worked fine for about a week. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked the plug supplying power to the pump again, but it seems fine.
Hope you can help.
Skewzyboy (Dale)
Thanks Catriver, I checked the resistance on the pump and valves. They are okay. The machine didn't reset itself, but I found an open fuse on the motor controller board. I closed the fuse with a fine wire. When I turned the machine on, the other fuse blew (in a big way), and one of the other components appears to be gone (a resister or capacitor - not sure). Anyway, it seems I need a new motor controller, but can I be sure that will fix the problem? How do I know what caused the fuse to go in the first place?Thanks Catriver,
I checked the resistance on the pump and valves. They are okay. The machine didn't reset itself, but I found an open fuse on the motor controller board. I closed the fuse with a fine wire. When I turned the machine on, the other fuse blew (in a big way), and one of the other components appears to be gone (a resister or capacitor - not sure). Anyway, it seems I need a new motor controller, but can I be sure that will fix the problem? How do I know what caused the fuse to go in the first place?
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Re:
To Check a Capacitor
First check to see if the capacitor is bulging or changed in physical shape of any kind this is signs of a bad capacitor also check for oil may be leaking from it.
With the capacitor unpluged use an Ohm meter set on OHMs scale, Rx1 you can check the terminals and the needle will jump upward and instantly fall back to zero. Reverse the leads of the meter and check it again. You will notice the same jump of the meter, and again fall back to zero. This will likely mean the capacitor is good. This check is for a shorted capacitor only, not a measurement of its capacitance, but will let you know if you have a bad capacitor. let me know..
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Dale, The pump is used as part of the power supply. If not connected the unit will appear dead. Check the pump resistance, should be 33 ohms. The pump has a thermal cut-out. If it's tripped, it should reset within 15 minutes. If it tripped, check for a blocked pump. Check for resistance from phase and nuetral to ground. This will identify if either the motor wiring harness or lid switch harness is shorting to the cabinet. Each water valve should ohm at 64ohms. If all this checks ok, then it's probably the motor controller. Catriver.
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If the electricity does power off in the middle of washing cycles the washing machine will turn off then. Some of the most common problems that will make your washer turn off during mid cycle can include thermostat failure or issues filling up with water for the rinse cycles or even problems with the pump and the hose that can stop your washer from draining the water. You should call a person that fixes washing machines to have a look and see what the problem is with your washing machine.
Smart Drive washers do not have a belt... If you can't get power, you've most likely burnt out the motor controller board. This is probably due to another component failing...You should call a tech....To remove the water, remove the cone from the centre of the agitator, and undo the large wing nut inside the tube. This will let you remove the agitator and ladle out the water.....Good luck.....Nomess
it sounds like your out of balance switch is open circult.out of balance switch is located under control module.test for continuity on switch.make sure power is turned off first.if u have problems reply 4 more help
If there is power and all your lights are lighting up but you get no responce from the machiene eg no spin, water filling, wash cycle or drain then it will be the sensor for the lid it will have coroded but this is an easy fix , I hope this helps
Hi Beth, sounds like you broke a belt. You can verify this by pulling the washer away from the wall and tipping it back to look underneith. Should have two belts, pump and drive. The part numbers are 211124 pump and 211125 drive. Catriver, post back.
Here are some more details:
I have been tinkering with the machine (GW709AU) in order to unblock the pump. I fixed the problem, but in the process (don't ask me how, it's a long story) disrupted the plug that supplies power to the pump underneath. When I found the machine wouldn't work I discovered the plug had moved. After I plugged it back in the machined worked fine for about a week. Now it doesn't work at all. I checked the plug supplying power to the pump again, but it seems fine.
Hope you can help.
Skewzyboy (Dale)
Thanks Catriver,
I checked the resistance on the pump and valves. They are okay. The machine didn't reset itself, but I found an open fuse on the motor controller board. I closed the fuse with a fine wire. When I turned the machine on, the other fuse blew (in a big way), and one of the other components appears to be gone (a resister or capacitor - not sure). Anyway, it seems I need a new motor controller, but can I be sure that will fix the problem? How do I know what caused the fuse to go in the first place?
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