Ice maker leaking water after replacing the solenoid valve two times

Michael, I suspect that the water solenoid valve needs replacement--that symptom usually causes either a slow leak and an overflowing ice cube tray or no water flow at all. To test the solenoid valve, slide your refrigerator out and view the back cover. There should be a double solenoid valve down near the bottom back of your refrigerator, one solenoid valve for the water serve spout on the front of the freezer door, and the other solenoid valve for the ice maker. I'd swap the clear plastic lines (to the door water spicket and the icemaker, put a plastic cup under the door water spicket and check in a few minutes for water leaking into your cup--if it does leak into the cup, you've found the problem! There are seval excellent videos on the web covering how to replace the valve, see: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/lg-water-inlet-valve-5221ja2006d-ap4445614.html

That solenoid is controlled by a cam driven switch built into the ice maker motor assembly which can occasionally go bad and need replacement or adjustment, but my experience points to a leaking dirt plugged-open water solenoid valve. Replacment solenoid valves are easy to replace at a cost ranging from $20 to $78 with free shipping to your doorstep--check ebay!

Hello;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.

Ok, I am going to give you a series of things to check.

1.) Reach into the back of your ice maker. You have a fill cup and a full tube. Are they filled with ice? If so you have a frozen fill tube. You must remove the ice maker and with a hair dryer clear the tube.
To remove the ice maker:




On the left hand side there are two screws on top - loosen them. On the bottom there is one screw - remove it. There is a conduit connector in the rear - squeeze the tabs to release. Now, lift the ice maker up and pull away from the wall. If the ice maker does not lift out, loosen the top screws a little more.

2.) reach into your ice maker mold (tray) are their any ice cubes jamming the unit? Clear and lift your lever arm up and then down.

3.) Were you getting small ice cubes? And then no ice cubes? This could be a ice maker solenoid valve problem.

This component cost $165.00. You can get It for about 40% less on the internet. Part number 215197400. Purchase locally, Cost $55.00.

4.) You will need a multi-meter to check the solenoid valve. Unplug the unit. remove the bottom cover. You have a duel solenoid valve assembly. On the right bottom is your solenoid assembly. The plastic tubing running up the wall is for your ice maker. With a multi-meter set to the lowest Ohms, disconnect the two contacts on the ice maker solenoid. On the solenoid, use your meter leads on each contact. You should get a reading of '0'. if it is good. Anything other than '0' is bad.

5.) Within your ice maker you may have a bad thermostat.
This


This component is $62.00.

If your ice maker solenoid valve is good, rather than try to repair your ice maker, you can purchase a ice maker locally for $110.00, or go on line and purchase one for $45.00.

Your ice maker part number is FRS22XGCD0

Hello Mary;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician.
You probably have a stuck spool or a plugged screen in your single solenoid water valve as a result of not running the unit.
You must also be careful, plastic tubing over time exposed to the normal heat that comes off the compressor, will dry out become brittle and crack. This is the tubing from the ice maker solenoid to your ice maker water feed tube, will one day need to be replaced.
I suspect your ice maker is fine. Lets check it out. I have faith that you can do this. Without unplugging you unit, Remove the white square cover on the front of your ice maker. This cover pops off. There are no screws or retainers. You may need a small flat head screw driver (or butter knife) to wedge the cover off.
After the cover is off, you will see what is called the ice maker motor module. In the center of the module is a small white gear. You will see several small holes. At the 5:00 position you will see 2 holes. One hole is marked 'T' and the other hole is marked 'H'.
We are going to force start the ice maker by jumping it. So, we need a jumper.
Make a jumper - obtain a 3" long piece of either 12 or 14 gauge wire. Strip 1/2" off each end to show bare wire. Form this wire into a horse shoe shape. Perhaps your local hard ware store can help you make one.
Now, put one end of the wire into the 'V' hole and one end into the 'H' hole. The white gear will start to turn. After about 3 seconds remove the jumper wire. At this time your ice maker is cycling. There are fingers that rotate and discharge the ice cubes from the ice cube mold. When these fingers reach the 12:00 position your water valve opens. I suspect you will not hear the normal water flow into your ice maker and you will leak water at the valve.
Therefore if the ice maker cycles (No water fill) and the water valve leaks - bad water valve.
I am limited on the length of my response to questions. Post question. Let us change the water valve. The water valve over the internet is about $25.00.

With the arm up in the ice tray, the water solenoid valve should be closed. When the arm drops, that tells the ice maker to open the water solenoid valve to fill the ice maker tray. It sound like the leak is at the inlet side of the water solenoid valve. On some models its not easy to get to, but follow the water line to it. Hope this is it for you. Good luck.

Good day,
When the ice maker harvests, near the very end of the harvest cycle, contacts in the ice maker send power to the water valve in the bottom back of the machine, for a period of 7 seconds, after which, the water valve must shut off smartly.
Appears the valve doesn't close fast enough, or completely.
The solution, is to replace the water valve. No repairs to it are possible.
Before doing that, make sure the fill tube is lined up properly going into the back of the ice maker.

Thank you for using FixYa

Most of the times the solenoid is leaking (electric valve that lets water to the ice maker when it calls for it) and when the ice maker calls for water it' ll overflood.To make sure this is the problem , shut of the ice maker and next day look inside of it , if is water , the solenoid is leaking and has to be replaced , if not the problem is with the ice maker and has to be repair or replaced.

No. Replacing the ice maker is not that hard but that is not the problem. You acutely have two problems. The first of witch being that you have terrible water conditions where you are. The second problem is caused from the first. The solenoid valve that feeds the ice maker is damaged from the contaminants from the water and is allowing water to trickle through this valve. This is why you have ice cycles. Have the ice maker solenoid valve replaced and install a filter in-line before the ref. This should take care of the problem and get you back in business. Hope this helps. Good luck. please re-post with updates. Thanks cj2176.

Water dispensing solenoid is bad. You need to replace the solenoid valve. This typically is independent of the ice maker.

About every two hours you should hear the ice maker cycle. The easiest way to check is to turn the ice maker off using the arm up in the off position. After a few hours open the door lower the arm and observe. The plastic fingers should advance ejecting the ice into the tub. A few swconds after the ejection you can hear the valve and should hear the water fill the tray. If no advance with the ice maker than ice maker,warm temperature, or wiring. If no solenoid sound (ice maker ejector rotates)than electrical or solenoid valve. Solenoid valve and no water - frozen fill hose, blocked hose or unlikely but possible faulty solenoid valve. If you can hear the valve it should pass water!!

If the ice maker doesent cycle CK the temp of the freezer! Must be cold enough for ice maker to work. zero or colder will work for sure and 0 or so is the right temp for freezer. Above 20 don't think it will cycle and would be an indication low freon or bad compressor in unit.

the ice maker controls the seloniod the icemaker wire arm must be all the way down .just because the seloniod test good doesnt mean the valve seat isnt stuck the water valves open by your house water pressure if your filter is dirty this can also lower the pressure if the icemaker module is bad this also can cause it if you pull the front of the ice-maker off you will se a bunch of holes if you get a piece of 10 Gage house strip about 1/4 inch off either side and insert it into the holes marked t and h that will test cycle the ice maker they will be close together don't get shocked if the ice maker cycles and doesnt fill and the ice maker fill tube isn't frozen replace the water valve if the ice-maker doesn't cycle replace the brown motor module