The capacitor! i think i found it!

Motor capacitors are usually available as spare parts from the appliance dealer but usually grossly over-priced.
Also available from specialist electrical suppliers at slightly better prices.

The last time I needed a capacitor the make and type was still visible on the casing and google found the company. One email later and the local agent got in touch with the price and offered to post it immediately.

The supplier of the pressure washer wanted more than £60 for a capacitor that cost me £4.63 plus carriage and tax from the capacitor's Italian manufacturer local English agent. I paid just under £16 and it did arrive the next day.

With some motors any shape or size will do as long as the value and voltage are correct but when it must fit in a waterproof or water resistant housing it is best to have an identical replacement.

Simple, replace your battery.

Search online for Lenovo G550 replacement battery. They range in price from about $25 and up depending on brand and quality. The cheaper ones typically are Chinese import knock-offs, which can do fine, but may have reliability issues. I've had several and for the most part they work ok. For the price, its not likely buying the highest priced will necessarily make it any better in the long run. Just make sure the source you buy from (ebay, amazon, craigslist) are reputable and offer a replacement warranty.

Yes, there's a posibility that IC561 is partially faulty but on the symptoms you've described, I would advice you to replaced first C539(470uf/25V) and C561 (47uf). I've suspected that these filter electrolytic capacitor is already leaky or dried up...

Hi Richard,


First of all thank you for contacting Fixya.com regarding your TV problem.

You have mentioned that you can hear a high pitch near the thermistor area and the TV won't power up. I've saw also in another link that you already replaced the thermistor but the symptoms still persist. You stated that the thermister heats up, that is normal and not an issue in this kind of symptoms. You can power up the unit even without the thermistor in the board and check if the high pitch will gone or not. But I've suspected that the symptoms will remain the same because the pitch came from the chopper transformer.

I've encountered this kind of symptoms not only on panasonic CRT TV's but almost in all brands. And the major caused of fault is the faulty electrolytic capacitor in the Voltage regulator IC. Your unit used STRF6524 (mounted on the aluminum heat sink) as voltage regulator IC and it has an electrolytic capacitor on its circuitry. I would advice you to replaced it to resolve the issue. The largest electrolytic capacitor is not the suspect here (don't replaced it).

Also check for bad solder joints around the regulator IC. Cracked, cold, dried solder can produced that kind of symptoms. It is hard to spot, you must used magnifying glass and work in the brightest area or much better to re-solder the suspected bad solder joints.

I have various of Panasonic schematic diagram but most of them is a LCD and Plasma TV. I don't have this model no. but please check the chassis no. of your unit and I will try again to find it on my supplier to give it to you for free as much as possible because I've saw it HERE but I don't think the price is reasonable.

Please let me know if you need further assistance.

Again, thank you and have a nice day!

Kind Regards,

Jdvillanueva

Hi,


You have to check if the replacement power supply board is the same part no. as the original one, it is printed on the board itself.


I don't think that the fault came from defective electrolytic capacitor because like what you have said, the unit is new out of the box and you've already replaced the power supply board which is most of faulty electrolytic capacitor came from that board.


You've mentioned also that the original power supply board has cracked, I've suspected that the main board also has been damaged because the blinking led light error codes will be encountered if the power supply board or main board gone to malfunction. If you've confirm that the power supply board is the same part no. like the original one, then I would advice you to replaced the main board.


Please let me know if you need further assistance.


Have a great day!

Mjsazon

There is a sensor switch that allows water from one tap or the other, or both. If this switch is flawed, it will confuse the temperature that is allowed to come from the faucets. You'll need to replace it. If you're skilled at this sort of thing you can do it yourself. If not, you'll need to call a professional. The replacement and repair doesn't take much time and is reasonably priced. If you're calling a professional, now that we've narrowed down the problem, you can call around and tell them you think your water temperature switch is bad and how much will it cost to have it replaced. When you've found a reputable pro with the best price, get them out.
I hope this helps. If it does, please come back to Fixya and rate my advice. Thanks.

The faulty float valve is almost always the problem, based on what you described. It is a replaceable part, but you may have to but the entire bucket assembly. Generally, they run around $50.00. However, not all parts are still available for that model, even though it's only 4 years old.

If you want pursue finding the float valve or a new bucket assembly, the best place I've found is online is Appliance Factory Parts http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/search/index.php they carry parts for just about any appliance you can think of.

Or Frigidaire Parts Select
http://www.partselect.com/Entry.aspx?Source=GAWS&Brand=Frigidaire&Term=frigidaire&gclid=CIfU4u28vqkCFcPd4Aod6CC5hQ

I hope this helped you. Please let me know. Thanks.

it's not the cap's fault that i see as the real problem,the cap is used to start the compressor and is rated for so many starts per hour and if you go over this rating it will stress the cap and after some time it will fail and this problem is known as short cycling and is normally caused by your thermostat.Or the unit is starting up under large gas pressure loads due to air in the system and or moisture and can only be fixed by a new gas charge

Thats a good price as long as they guarantee that it works. How were you able to pull a capacitor off without un-soldering it?