Handy Master Fumes so Bad your Eyes can"t take the smell

you may need to replace rotor and vanes, available in kit

The reasons for long cranking are as follows:
- Specific gravity of the storage battery is low.
- Battery terminals sulfated. Clean with warm water, keeping your eyes and hand away.
- Cranking motor is drawing more amperes (Current). Service the starter motor.
- Engine compression low. Check the valve clearance.
- Spark plugs gaps are wide open. Adjust the gaps.
- Fuel pump pressure is low. (Normal range 38 psi - 44psi).
- Leaky Fuel injectors.
- Clogged element air cleaner.
- Engine coolant temperature sensor

REAL FACT is: If all individual components of the heater are at 100% but the air pump pressure is not on it's mark, then the heater WILL NOT continue to run!
Air Pump Pressure is directly related to fuel delivery. Read that statement again! It is the most important line of text on this website.
If the pump pressure is incorrect, then, the fuel delivery will be incorrect. As a result, the heater will not run to specs.
Instructions for setting the air pump pressure:
Air pump pressure is the pulse of the heater. Pump pressures range from 3 psi to 6 psi depending on heater BTU size (see chart below). A loss of ONLY 1 psi translates to a 30% to 17% loss of FUEL FLOW (starvation). You must know the specified required pressure and set the pressure accordingly.
Heaters with Hot Surface Ignitor technology are extremely critical to pump pressure. If the pressure is off by 1/2 psi, the heater may run for 5 seconds, then shut down because of IGNITION FAILURE. The only way to correct this problem is to set the pump pressure to DESA's recommended pressure specification.

1. The FIRST STEP in diagnosing any heater problem should be checking the output of the air pump. Determine the air pressure required for the heater model that is being tuned. The air pump, in turn, is responsible for fuel delivery.
2. If you do not know the required pressure look for a decal on the side (usually) of your heater. This decal will state the model number, serial number, fuel capacity, pump pressure, etc.
3. If your plastic end cover looks like this......

M29609 has 2 threaded holes. The hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
or
If your plastic end cover looks like this......
M16545 has 2 threaded holes. The shorter projection with a hole on the left has a square plug inserted. Remove the plug. Screw in the nipple end of the gauge into the threaded hole. Check for air leaks with soapy water.
4. The other hole (longer projection) has a screw with a hole which adjusts a ball and spring relief valve assembly. Carefully adjust the screw until the gauge is reading the pressure level that is specified on the heater's label. If operating properly, the pump should produce more pressure than is required to operate the heater. The relief valve allows the excess air to escape before being sent to the nozzle.
5. Replace plug. Test for leak.
6. If you are unable to reach the desired pressure spray soapy water around the seal of the end cover- at the same time check the plastic cover for a crack. A cracked end cover will not allow the heater to perform properly and will not allow for an accurate reading. The pump must be set at the specified pressure in order to have adequate fuel delivery an adequate fuel atomization. Replace if needed.
7. If you set the pressure to specs and the heater does not perform properly or the cone does not glow a soft red, then check for other fuel delivery problems such as a clogged fuel filter, cracked rubber hose, clogged or worn nozzle, or a cracked nozzle adapter. Soapy water lightly sprayed in these areas will quickly identify the problem most of the time. Any air leak will create problems.

The switch is not the problem. The problem is the pressure tank. I am assuming you have a captive air tank with a bladder in it. The air pressure in the tank needs to be 2 lbs below the turn on pressure. Heres how to acheive that. Look at the pressure gauge on the pump and determine what pressure the pump is turning on. Next, turn the pump off and drain the pressure tank, then shut off the water to the whole house. If the pressure tank does not drain all the way, then you have a problem with the bladder in the tank. Once the tank is drained put the required amount of air in the tank. (if the pump turned on at 30 psi, then put 28 psi in the tank and if the pump turned on at 20, then put 18 psi in the tank) Check it with a tire gauge to confirm. Now turn the pump back on and see how it does. If done properly, your problem should be fixed. If it is a bad bladder, you will have to buy a new pressure tank.

Hi,

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote that tell you how to troubleshoot a Torpedo or Reddy heater...

Reddy Heater - Troubleshooting Torpedo Heaters

Torpedo Heater Pump Pressure Adjustment

heatman101

next to pressure gauge is usually a phillips or flat head adjust it to match same psi as nameplate rating

If your pump is shutting off before it reaches it's max psi. then you need to adjust you switch. Under the black case there are two adjustment screws. One is the high\low adjustment, the other is high pressure cut off.
The first will change when the pump turns on and off for your low psi setting and the high setting simultaneously.
The second will allow you to raise or lower just the high setting. There should be a diagram under the black cap to show which is which. Adjust the high side only and just a 1\4 turn then run the compressor and see if that takes care of the high setting.

Sounds like it's not getting enough air to fuel mix, check your air inlet line for breaks or just put a new one on for a couple bucks. any fuel line thats the right diameter will work, got mine from auto zone.

Try running it outside where the oxygen level is 21%. Carbon Monoxide will kill you The smell might be the product if incomplete combustion CARBON MONOXIDE, or the fuel line pressure needs to be adjusted.

If you still get the smell the unit may defective. If you want to try adjusting the fuel line pressure, you will need a low pressure gauge 0-15 psi.remove a plug from the heater and set the pressure at the documented pressure, the other plug with the hole in it is the adjustment.

This is a fuel delivery problem. Look for:

1. always start troubleshooting fuel problems on a Hot Surface Ignitor heater by checking the pump pressure!
2. restricted fuel filter
3. air leak
4. restricted nozzle

Troubleshooting tips