I have a Toshiba 36HF72 that when turned on for about the first 5 minutes has a horizontal flashing/jumping/jittering that "tiles" or scrambles the picture. After it warms up the picture has slight vertical (up & down not side to side) wavy lines throughout the picture but mainly noticable at the top. The picture continues to flash every once in awhile (especially when the vcr is playing). The horizontal & verticle deflection sections have been resoldered as well as the power supply section. Freeze spray has no effect on the board after warm up. Tapping, shaking, or flexing the board has no effect nor does probing with a plastic stick. The problem seems to be gradually getting worse. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Thanks :-)
The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available at http://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keyword=surface+mount+capacitors&btnSubmit.x=8&btnSubmit.y=9)) I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)
The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available at http://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)
AnonymousDec 04, 2007
I have the same problem with a Toshiba 42H82. It started ou as a minor inconvience that lasted 5 minutes or so, but over the last year, became longer and longer. Luckily the PIP feature let me tune both sides to the same channel and let me view on one and listen on the other until it cleared up. However, about a week ago I had togo to this mode exclusively since the set would not clear up. I will try to fix it using the method described in this forum.I have the same problem with a Toshiba 42H82. It started ou as a minor inconvience that lasted 5 minutes or so, but over the last year, became longer and longer. Luckily the PIP feature let me tune both sides to the same channel and let me view on one and listen on the other until it cleared up. However, about a week ago I had togo to this mode exclusively since the set would not clear up. I will try to fix it using the method described in this forum.
AnonymousDec 17, 2007
I have the exact same problem with my 57H82, it started out minimal and would "warm up" but got progressively worse and now it's at the point of watching right side PIP only. Will take time over the holidays to follow the capacitor replacement procedures here to hopefully fix the problem. Thanks for sharing your experiences.I have the exact same problem with my 57H82, it started out minimal and would "warm up" but got progressively worse and now it's at the point of watching right side PIP only. Will take time over the holidays to follow the capacitor replacement procedures here to hopefully fix the problem. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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How are you able to get underneath the main board so that you can detach the main part of the silver "box" from the board so that you can unplug the module? this is where i'm stuck. also, the solution lists number cx241 twice but counts it toward the total of 11 caps to replace, can anyone confirm this?
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1) you have problem with the Raster 2) the main causes are a) raster b) picture c) sound d) synch 3) since this are not video, the problem is raster. your must test the voltage from section horizontal out +125vdc+vertical output +80v+all other circuit +12vdc 4) test the power supply for defective. see the diagram attached
Sounds like a problem in the deflection circuits either vertical or horizontal. You may also want to check the solder connections in the tuner as they have been known to develop cracks over time. But the prior shrinking tends to say deflection problems.If I can assist you further please let me know.
There is a module called a hyper board that is vertically mounted near the jack panel. Inside the module are 10mf/25v capacitors they are grtting weak. The module is fully shielded and pluggs into a socket. the module has 4 tabs (2 on each end) that must be unsoldered before it can be unplugged. This repair should be done by a qualified technician. The caps are surface mounts and very small. Unless you have excellent soldering skills and a rock steady hand DO NOT ATTEMPT to repair this problem on your own.
First of all, there is no such thing as a "high power flyback converter". There is a flyback transformer, but if it was bad you would have absolutely no picture at all. The fact that you dont even know what the basic components are suggests that you should not be "diving in" to someone else's TV. Do everyone a favor and allow an experienced tech to service the set.
I gather from your post that wavy can mean two possible things as the TV comes on, you see the picture flow like ocean waves? In this case you may have 60Hz hum modulating with the picture, this is actually unlikely these days, but I have heard it happens sometimes.
The other thing it could be is light horizontal tearing. This happens when the horizontal frequency is too high or too low. You are not going to like my solution because I feel that for problems like this the set must be analyzed not just subjected to "shotgun troubleshooting", so here I go, Take the TV to a repair shop.
take it to a tech if you have not done so. your problem is lose solder.your board needs to be rsoldered over to connect your component properly over the years heat from the operation of the tv cause the soldr to lose grip on the board.good luck
The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)
The problem has been repaired! Zig Zag picture is another good descrption. Like a lot of the larger/projection sets this model Toshiba also has the "infamous" Hyper Scan module PD0637 (23148024) also known as a Scan Converter or DIGI-CONV BOARD . (Not mentioned in the Service Manual) The hyper Module is completely shielded in a silver looking canister, it stand about 6" tall and about 4" wide. It stands upright , mounted to the main board. The board is enclosed by a metal shield. The board is plugged into the main board but the metal shield has four mounting tabs that are soldered to the main board. Usually, at least two of the tabs has been twisted at the factory. You must first, carefully, desolder all four shield tabs. Then untwist the twisted ones as straight as possible. Make certain you've cleaned all the solder off the tabs as possible. Now, place one hand on the Hyper board from above and attempt to pull the board as straight up as possible. A little gentle rocking may be necessary as, even though the board is a plug in it seems to stick, I often pull up on the board with one hand and use the other to hold down on the main board on both ends. CARE MUST BE USED. The main board is prone to crack on the ends. If it cracks on the right side (as looking at it form the back), it's usually not a problem. If it cracks on the left side, well..... you've got problems captain. Be sure to resloder these before turning the set back on. There are several 10uF 16Volt (surface mount type capacitors (available athttp://www.mcminone.com/search.asp?keywo... I replaced mine with regular standard radial type capacitors of the same value. One needs to be very careful when removing the old capacitors as the pads are very easy to "rip" off the board making life a lot less happier. I lifted up 2 pads and had a wonderful time repairing the traces (one that went through the board causing me to have to remove the board from the case....not a fun job). I replaced CX178, CX221, CX230, CX241, CX250, CX241, CX261, CX270, CX366, CZ52 & C514. (11 total, all the same value)Best bet is to use good lite solder wick, hemostats, maybe an "exacto knife" and a skinny tipped 25 Watt iron. Go very slow being extremely careful not to accidently rip up any pads or traces as some are extremely tiny!(I can't say enough about this)Good Luck & Happy Trails :-)
I have the same problem with a Toshiba 42H82. It started ou as a minor inconvience that lasted 5 minutes or so, but over the last year, became longer and longer. Luckily the PIP feature let me tune both sides to the same channel and let me view on one and listen on the other until it cleared up. However, about a week ago I had togo to this mode exclusively since the set would not clear up. I will try to fix it using the method described in this forum.
I have the exact same problem with my 57H82, it started out minimal and would "warm up" but got progressively worse and now it's at the point of watching right side PIP only. Will take time over the holidays to follow the capacitor replacement procedures here to hopefully fix the problem. Thanks for sharing your experiences.
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