Amp heats up and goes into protect mode

OK what you are saying now is that your speakers are dual voice coil; models? 4 Ohms per Coil? I have always used single 4 Ohm Voice ciol speakers since amps are mostly based on 4 Ohm outputs. but you can get 8 Ohm dual voice coil subs also. With 8 Ohms per coil you can get 4 Ohms if you parallel the wires. What is best for you and will get you the most stable power and still will be in the specs of that amp is to run the amp in BRIDGED MODE running each subs voice coils in series with each other then run those 2 subs in parallel to the amplifier giving it a 4 Ohm load. So, your will have two sets of wires from your amp 1 for each speaker. Then you will take a short piece of wire that will connect the + to the - of each voice coil then hook up the wires from your amp to each sub What it will be is 4 Ohms + 4 Ohms = 8 Ohms per speaker the 8 Ohms in parallel each speaker to the Bridged amp output using just the + from one channel and the - from the other will give you a total of 4 ohms and power out put of 600 Watts so that ends up being 150 watts per voice coil or 300 watts each speaker

This could be caused due to the impedance load being to low. Your amp is stable to 2 ohm load however its very possible that you have your subs wired to a 1 ohm load that would cause the amp to go into protect mode. The subs you have are dual 4 ohm voice coils and would need to be wired in series/parallel. I've included a link that will show you how the subs should be wired.

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-DVC-4-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg

The easiest way to wire this would be to make sure you have a 2 ohm amp, wire both voice coils in parallel to the amp. This means to connect both + terminals on the speaker to the + speaker output on the amp, then wire both - terminals on the speaker to the - speaker terminal on the amp. With the voice coils in parallel like this it makes it into a 2 ohm load at the amplifier. If you are running for example a 1000 watt amp at 2 ohms into this speaker it would give each voice coil the equivalent of 500 watts of power at 4 ohms. The other way would be to run the voice coils in series (voice coil 1 - terminal to - speaker terminal on the amp, voice coil 1 + terminal to the voice coil 2- terminal, voice coil 2 + terminal to the +speaker terminal on the amp.) The series wiring would give you a 8ohm speaker load to your amp so you would need a 8 ohm amp.

Yes audiobahn do make a QUAD coil, and some people get confused with the - - + + on the terminal, This is called a dual lug, Check out Audiobahn.com and go to tech suport. Thier you can look up the wiring diagram for this sub... TRUST ME hope this was helpful positive feed back be nice lol

yor subs have dual 6 ohm voice coils from the sound of it-your amp is rated at 650 watts rms at a 1ohm load. The best you can do with the equipment you have is to wire ALL the coils of your subs in parallel and that will give you a 1.5 ohm load for the amp.It should knock the hell outta them with 300 watts on each sub - good luck

Hello damasogrizzl,

The 2 sets of terminals are connected internally. Having 2 sets just makes it more convenient when wiring multiple subs. The amp is rated for 900 watts RMS into a 2 ohm load. The specs claim that it is stable at 1 ohm but does not give a power rating.

The Radial SD competition series from Phoenix Gold are rated to handle up to 600 watts RMS. If you have the model RSdC124 with dual 4 ohm voice coils, it would be best to wire the voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load and connect the sub to one set of terminals on the amp. If your sub is the model RSdC122 with dual 2 ohm voice coils, you should wire the voice coils is series for a 4 ohm load and connect the sug to one set of terminals on the amp. Wiring the voice coils in parallel will result in a 1 ohm load. And, while the amp may be stable at 1 ohm, the sub will be seriously overpowered.

Hope this helps.

Hello,

All of the JL W3 subwoofers are essentially the same. The "d2" and "d4" suffix refers to the voice coil configuration. "d2" = dual two ohm coils, "d4" = dual four ohm coils. Depending on the number of subwoofers in your system and the amplifier(s) you are using to power them, one or the other of the configurations may be "better".

Generally, you want to have the load on your amp to have the lowest possible impedance consistent with the amps capability to operate properly with that load. It's normally referred to as "impedance matching". Greater power (watts) is produced, and louder sound, when the amp can deliver power at a lower impedance.

If your amp is only capable of supplying power at 4 ohms, you want to make sure that the configuration of your sub(s) represents a 4-ohm load. If the load is higher, say 8 ohms, then your amp can only deliver about half the power of which it is capable. It would be OK to run them a 8 ohms, but they would not be as loud. On the other hand, if the load was lower, say 2 ohms, your amplifier would soon overheat and go into protect mode.

So the trick is to first decide on how many subs you want. Then choose an amp/sub combination that "matches".

The DVC or dual voice coils just gives you more options in selecting and configuring. Say you want 2 subs and you are going with the 15w3 d-2. Your amp is the JL Audio G-MAX monoblock. The amp puts out 1200Wx1 Chan. at 2 ohms or 600Wx1 Chan. at 4 ohms. You would wire both of your subs voice coils in series making each sub 4 ohms, then wire the 2 subs in parallel to your amp making the final load 2 ohms, the best "match" for your amp.

If the subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils and if your amp is good down to 1 ohm, your best bet is:

1. Connect the voice coils in parallel ("+"s together, "-"s together). This will make the impedance of each sub 2 ohms.
   
2. Connect the subs in parallel.
3. Bridge the amp to one channel.

This should max the amp out at 2400W, which means about 1200W per sub.

If your subs are single 4 ohm voice coils, do the same steps, but you'll only be able to load the amp to 2 ohms, which means about 600W per sub.

Also keep in mind that box size, type, and quality make a big difference in how subs sound.

Mamola,

Get an amp with at least 200 Watts RMS. The RMS value is what is important about driving Subs. This could be proclaimed to be a 1000 Watt amp. REad the RMS value.

Wiring. It is better to series your Speakers to give them and your amp more reliability,

Get a Mono or Bridgeable amp. If it si bridgeable, BRidge the output as described in the manual you get. Some Amps have a diagram right on the output..

AMP+ to Sub1 +
Sub1 - to Sub2 +
Sub2 - to Amp -

Get a 4 Guage wring kit. Run your power wiring down the Drivers side, and Audio signal wiring down the Passenger side, keep the two separate.

The amp's not actually a very good match for the sub, since the sub can be wired for 2 ohms or 8 ohms, and the amplifier is most efficient at 4 ohms in bridged mode. My advice would be to wire the amp in bridged mode, and wire the sub for an 8 ohm load. To do this, the amp's (+) wire should go to the (+) terminal on one of the sub's voice coils. Then run a wire from the (-) terminal on the OTHER voice coil to the (-) terminal on the amp. The remaining (+) and (-) terminals (on opposite voice coils) should be connected to each other with a wire. Your original wiring setup had the amplifier connected to only one voice coil, while the other voice coil was shorted.