Everything on control panel is flashing. Can't operate camera.

Shut the flash off with the manual setting. it sounds like light censor problems. needs to be repaired.

You didn't say what camera model you are using.
If you have 7D/60D/T4i you can have a total of 3 wireless ir flashes.

580EX II must be set at Master, say Group A & Channel 1
Two 270EX II must be set at Slave, say Group A & Channel 1
or
One 270EX II set at Group A & Channel 1
Second 270EX II set Group A & Channel 2


Then go into camera menu & turn off Master flash & turn settings for those two flashes.



Send me a email, then I can help you much better.

[email protected]

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective YOU'LL need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.
Heating Element If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Heating Element Assembly If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Touchpad and Control Panel If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced
Touchpad If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

Check Fault Codes If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the Error Codes guide on our website to determine which component has failed or is failing

see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Drain Pump If lights are flashing on the control panel, the drain pump might not be working properly. For two-wire drain pump motors check them for continuity using an Ohm meter. If it's defective YOU'LL need to replace it. Drain pumps are not repairable.

Heating Element If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element might have burned out. The heating element heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Heating Element Assembly If lights are flashing on the control panel, the heating element assembly might have burned out. The heating element assembly heats the water up to operating temperature. After a set amount of time if the temperature isn't reached a light on the control panel might start flashing. The heating element assembly can be checked for continuity with an Ohm meter.

Touchpad and Control Panel If the lights are flashing on the display the entire touchpad and control panel assembly might be defective. If the display works but the dishwasher functions are all out of synch, or some of the buttons don't respond properly the entire touchpad and control panel might need to be replaced.

Touchpad If the display lights are flickering for no reason, the touchpad might need to be replaced. Sometimes when the touchpad is defective the display lights are flashing randomly.

Check Fault Codes If the display lights are flashing and there is an error code in the display window, check the Error Codes guide on our website to determine which component has failed or is failing

Your flash will fire optically. This is wireless but not radio.On the flashgun window move through the options until you see all of these in the window :- Flashing M, MZoom (24mm)
(the power output eg) 1/4
Flashgun icon CH1 Slave (blank)
The front panel should show a flashing red light. This means it is ready to receive the light signal from your onboard flash. From the camera menu select the in built flash control.
Set it to - Built-in flash - CustWireless
Flash mode - Manual flash
Wireless func - (single flashgun icon)
Channel- 1 ch
firing group - (flashgun icon)All
(flashgun icon) flashoutput - 1/64

selecting 1/64 should be sufficient to trigger the flash gun but not light the scene.

Manually pop up the onboard flash

In the view finder you'll see a number of green bars when half pressing the shutter and wait for them to go down to one which mean the camera and flashgun are communicating, fully press to take the shot and the flash (off camera) should fire.

Have the remote tested----our shop uses a tester--if remote is bad we usually can fix it for 10 dollars or less.

A digital camera with a LCD display can also be used in a dark room--remote pointed at it and buttons pressed---camera display will flash faintly in response.

Failing that try to locate a replacement remote (good luck with this brand).

the user manual is here http://www.olympus.co.jp/en/support/imsg/digicamera/download/manual/accessories/man_fl50_e.pdf
Have a look at page 46 TTL Auto mode - you can adjust the variable between power setting - + or - 3 stops Page 48 gives full details on adjusting this setting
Light intensity adjustment

• The flash light intensity can be adjusted between +3 and –3.
• The light intensity adjustment must be set to ON in the custom setup operation (page 61). • The indicator appears in the control panel.

1. Turn dial B to select a light intensity adjustment value in the following steps. (This selection is also possible with dial A.)

• 0 → +0.3 → +0.7→ +1.0 ... +3.0
• 0 → –0.3 → –0.7→ –1.0 ... –3.0

1. The display shows the light intensity adjustment value except when the value is 0, in which case the display does not show the light control range.
2. If the camera’s flash adjustment mode is selected, the actual flash light intensity will be the total of the light intensity adjustment value set on the FL-50 and that set on the camera. The light intensity adjustment value displayed is that of the FL-50 only.

Have you tried cleaning the hot shoe contact? If the contact is dirty it may not communicate with the camera. The "contact" Its the metal "circle" in the middle of the hot shoe. Using a pencil eraser, rub the contact gently until you create eraser crumbs, then gently rub the "circle" with a soft cloth. See if this fixes it.

Found a great website that explains this since it's not in any of the manuals or other websites I have searched for so long!

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/ittlslave.htm

HOW TO DO IT
This covers the D70 and SB-600 which I use personally. It should be similar on other cameras. Any questions? Presuming you have USA equipment, call (800) NIKON-UX for details.
On your D300:
Press MENU.
Move up or down to: PENCIL menu.
Move right and down to: e Bracketing/Flash
Move right and down to: e3: Flash cntrl for Built-in Flash
Move right and down to: C Commander Mode

On your D70:
Use P, S, A or M exposure mode.
Press MENU. Go to the yellow wrench menu, and be sure CSM MENU is set to DETAILED. Otherwise you won't see the next setting!
Go to the CSM menu which looks like a purple pencil. Set #19, Flash Mode, to "COMMANDER MODE." Further click to the right to set the commander mode to "TTL."
You also may set the commander mode to Manual or AA, which are other modes to fire the remote flash. The SB-600 only works with TTL and Manual. You set the manual power level at the camera.
Don't forget to POP UP THE BUILT-IN FLASH!
On your D200:
Press MENU.
Move up or down to: PENCIL menu.
Move right and down to: e Bracketing/Flash
Move right and down to: e3: Built-in Flash
Move right and down to: C Commander Mode
Move right to get to a confusing panel of C Commander Mode settings.
Once in this confusing panel you can set everything for two external groups of flashes and the built-in flash. You move between the different fields by moving left and right, and set any field by toggling up and down.
In this panel you must select Channel, and set it to 3. Default is 1, which is the default for the SB-800. Don't ask me why they are different. Default for the SB-600 flash is channel 3, so if you forget this it won't work! Sorry about the complexity; Nikon didn't ask me for help here.
This is such a pain I use one of the D200's setting banks to store this.
On your SB-600:
Hold down ZOOM and "-" together to enter the CSM settings. That's why you see a gray "CSM" marking between those two buttons.
Press either the + or - buttons until you see an icon that looks like a wiggly Z-shaped arrow. This arrow refers to wireless communication between the flash and camera. When you see the wiggly arrow, press MODE to make it say ON.
Press ZOOM and "-" together to get out of the CSM mode. Even easier, just tap the power button to get back to normal operation. It won't turn off if you hit it while in the CSM settings.
Presuming you did this correctly you'll see "CHannel 3" and "GROUP A" displayed. If you see different channels or groups then press MODE to get one or the other to flash and then the + or - buttons to set them back to 3 and A. No, I have no idea why these are the settings you have to use instead of 1 and A; 3 and A are what you need to talk to the D70's built in flash. If you get smart and choose others then it won't work. The other channels and groups are for people much smarter than I who want to try to rig up a zillion flashes to work together and control them all separately and remotely. I prefer professional studio strobes if I'm using more than one strobe at a time.
The SB-600 doesn't go into standby in this mode, so you can run down your batteries if you forget and leave it this way. It just sits there blinking its little red LEDs visible from the front.
HOW TO SHOOT
Easy, just shoot! If you set everything to TTL as I suggest then the camera just does everything. You and I are free to concentrate on the more important parts of making a great image.
Everything is controlled from your camera. This is very convenient if you have the strobes someplace remote, like duct taped behind plants.
You can control the remote flash's output simply by varying the flash exposure compensation control on the camera. You can do that without taking your eye away from the finder! You do that by pressing the same button you used to pop up the flash and then moving the front control wheel. You'll see the amount of compensation on both the camera's top LCD as well as through the finder. Brilliant! You can add more or less flash fill without having to walk over to the remote flash.
You can set the mode (TTL, Manual or AA) from the camera.
You can set the manual power level from the camera as well.
Try to have the little black window on the bottom right of the flash (marked with that same wiggly arrow) pointing in the general direction of the camera. Thankfully it's not a big deal; you don't even need a line of sight so long as the flash is anywhere near the camera or subject.
The sensor is sensitive enough to pick up the flash from the camera even if it has to bounce around a corner or off the subject. This makes this current system so much better than the older ones. You can hide flashes anyplace and even if they can't see the camera they usually go off correctly. They beep to let you know what's going on, even if you cant' see them.
The i-TTL system is much better than the old systems because it just works. If you ever used the older systems you'd know that half the time you'd get no flash, or a full-power flash that also wasted the shot. This new system just works, and that's critical for use in the field where the remote flash is rested on a garbage can or held in your left hand while you hold the camera with your right.
I even can have the flash in a different room out of view of the camera and it goes off just fine.
It works fine even 50 feet away. I haven't tried it any further. Honestly I have no need for a flash that far away; I was just seeing if it worked.

It is not operator error. I had a similar experience and spent days pulling my hair out trying to figure out the problem.

Unfortunately, the 5400HS is NOT compatible with the 7D. Only to 3600HS(D) and 5600HS(D) are.

The problem stems from the fact that the digital cameras cannot to TTL (real-time) flash metering and have to rely on pre-flash instead.

Because of this, Minolta updated the control protocol to include a signal to tell the flash to pre-flash. Unfortunately, only the two newer flashes recognise and respond to this new signal.

I spent weeks trying various things to get around this, but with no joy. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but your 5400HS just will not work properly with the 7D either wirelessly or when attached to the camera.

Matt.