My amp just stoppped work and all the blade fuses are ok and I have checked that all the wireing is correct and it is. I pulled the cover off to look with a pen light tester, and I think that 2 out of 3 of the small black resisters/capacitators/fuses or what ever they are are shot because only the outside one will light up the pen light, are the other two supposed to work simultaniously to the outside, and is it worth it to track down replacements and have someone fix it?
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Check the light bulbs, the connections to the bulbs and the fuses for the indicators. Start with the indicator lamp fuses if all indicator lights are not working.. Their location is shown in the owners manual.
If the problem is isolated to just one or 2 of the lights, you need to check the wiring, the connections and the light bulbs. However there will likely be multiple fuses on the car covering the indicator lamps so check these also. I have 4 different fuses on my own car covering different indicator lamps so check the fuse information in your owners manual for details of which fuses cover which lamps.
If you do find a blown fuse is the cause, only replace it with a fuse of the correct amperage. If it is a 15 amp fuse that has blown use only a 15 amp fuse as a replacement.
If the fuses, wiring, wiring connections and bulbs are all fine, but non of the indicators are working, the likely problem is a faulty indicator switch on the steering column.
Chances are the deck drive belt has been knocked off one of the pulleys or the drive clutch won't engage properly. With the spark plug wire removed, rotate the blades by hand and make sure they both move together. This verifies the blade linking belt is OK. Now engage the blade operating control and feel for resistance as you rotate the blades. If you feel no change in resistance, remove the belt cover and reinstall the drive belt over the pulleys and tensioner/clutch mechanism.
The Speedometer has been known to go bad. But if you check the SIGNAL fuse in the fuse block behind the left rear engine cover you may find it open. Replacing the 10 amp fuse should get it working again. Don't just measure the fuse's voltage test points, pull it and look at the fuse itself.
I took a wire and jumpered all of the switches until I found the one that would let the mower start. The switch was still good, but vibration or whatever had moved the plug just enough to lose contact. Plugged it on more firmlly - problelm solved. Thanks.