Fedders window unit Mod: 15cm44h-a, S/N: 18l936828
No Heat. Thermostat is closeing, Switch closes but shows 45 ohms resistance, Should be 0. Not sure if switch is bad. need wireing diagram to properly troubleshoot. Electrical element is good.
Help please
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You can normally hear a humidistat open and close if you listen closely. Also, the water tank has either a float or pressure switch that will shut it down.
The 45% setting is too low and the setting is never satisfied, so the unit keeps running to try and reach 45%. Try setting to 50 or 55, this is a very comfortable range. I was not clear on the room temperature being at 55 degrees. Is this what your thermostat is set to or is this the actual room temperature. Brrrrrrrrrrrr
The model you have was made for Maytag by Fedders. Unfortunately, Fedders as you knew them, when you purchased the unit, is no longer in business.
The part you need to replace is CRCFD2518-020- Pc board w/auto restart dehumidify and with anti-icing thermostat
(defrost thermostat). this unit also include the humidistat control. However, that part is no longer available and there are no substitutions for that part.
Don't feel bad. This part was also used by many other name brand manufacturers and is no longer available for their dehumidifiers ether.
I'm really sorry, I wish I had better news for you.
If you have access to an ohm meter, I would UNPLUG the unit and then see if the switch is opening and closing. By the way, most of the switches have a clicking sound when then open and close.
First check the water collection bucket, to make sure it's properly seated and making contact with the safety switch. Also check the humidity level you have the unit set on. It may be to high for the humidity level in your house. Reset the humidity level to either minimum or if you have an LED screen 45%. Remember, the lower the setting, the more humidity will be removed.
To do an in home test of the unit, move it to a bathroom. Turn the unit ON and set the humidity level to it's lowest level. Turn the shower ON hot enough to generate steam. Do not turn the bathroom's exhaust fan on. As you exit the bathroom, close the door. Wait 15 to 20 minutes and turn the shower OFF. Allow the dehumidifier to run for several more minutes, before checking the water collection bucket for water. If you find any water in the bucket, it's working as it should. If not, it's time to replace the unit. Under most circumstances, I would suggest possibly repairing it. But, Fedders is out of business and replacement/repair parts are a scarce as hen's teeth.
Hope this helps you to further troubleshoot and solve the problem. Please let me know. Thanks.
You can test the humidistat fairly easily, using a volt-ohm meter. Just set the meter to RX1 scale and attach its leads to the humidistat's terminals. Rotate the humidistat's knob as far as it will turn in both directions. If the volt-ohm meter registers zero ohms through only part of the humidistat dial's range, the humidistat is working. If it registers zero through the entire range, it's broken and must be replaced.
Dehumidifier Overflow Cutoff Switch Test-
Using a volt-ohm meter, you can tell if the overflow switch works or not. Clip the leads to the terminals on the switch. Depress the bar or trip lever on the switch. If the meter's needle doesn't show continuity and no continuity as the switch is clicked back and forth, the switch is probably faulty and will need replacement.
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