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Help!! I was cleaning my microhood

And apparently some of the liquid dripped behind the control panel and my light went on, the micro started running and wouldn't stop. I unplugged it and took the control panle off to see if it was wet. I am not seeing any moisture but my microwave won't work. The interior light stays on but the microwave won't work.

Posted by Kiersten Angulo on

  • Anonymous Mar 29, 2014

    moisture on exterior and moisture from interior will be dripping when opened after cooking for 8-10 minutes

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  • 18 Answers

Sounds like you will either need a new membrane, or pcb.

Posted on Jul 10, 2007

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When I turn on my microwave. It sometimes shuts power off. The lights will go off and it will not run. I can unplug and plug it back in after a minute or two and it will work fine.

Sounds like the internal cooling fan may be stuck or defective. This will cause the micro to overheat which intern trips an internal heat safety. Once it cools down it will try to start again and repeat the same problem. Cooling fan is usually near the back behind the control panel.
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Sounds like the main fuse blew. It's either near where the power cord enters the cabinet, or behind the control panel (if an over the range unit).

You may also have some type of failure in the high voltage circuit; based on your description of the symptoms.

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Rattling, crackling type noise just started and is constant when microwave is running.

A couple of months ago my microwave started making crackling, rattling and grinding sounds everytime i used it and i thought it was going to break down. It turned out one of my children must have spillled or overflowed something with a clear liquid because the micro did not look dirty but there was a crunchy substance under the wheels of the turntable. Once i cleaned this up totally the noises all went away.
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I would first suggest that you check the door switches.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you only need a switch, you can order a universal type here for $5 postpaid.

Especially if your cooktop lights recently went bad, you may have a problem with your control circuit board.

You can order one here, or we can repair yours for $39.95 in most cases.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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I have a WHirlpool Hood/Micro combo MH7140XFB-0. The micro portion has quit working -- lights, exhaust fan and clock still work. Turntable in micro turns but it doesn't heat and makes a funny noise.

Did your cooktop lights fail recently? If so, then the circuit board may have been damaged by a surge. We can probably repair that for you.

Otherwise, I would suspect a shorted high voltage diode or bad magnetron.

There should be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

mini_manual_behind_grille_small.jpgAt our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

If you don't find your mini-manual, or if you want to look at it before removing the controller, you can download it here.

You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number (as MH7140XFB0) here.

Here are some links you or someone you know can use for test help, but read their safety warnings first:

http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/diode.html
(if it's not shorted or burned, it's probably okay)


http://www.gallawa.com/microtech/mag_test.html

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
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There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

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Generally the F9 code indicates a problem with the door latch (usually upper) or with the control board. You can do a Google search for my text file "doorsw.txt" to help you diagnose and repair door switch trouble. BUT - since it always stops at 53 seconds, that leads me to think you have trouble with the control unit (circuit board / controller assembly). Once you read and digest the info on door switches, please feel free to do an updated post and I'll be happy to help you further. It may be corrupted ROM in the control unit. But let us know what you find out. - online they call me "William E. Miller, AS-EET"
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