Question about Roper RAX4233PQ Top Load Washer
Remove the 2 screws on the control panel and lift it to the back. disconnect the lid switch connector and use a flat blade screwdriver to remove the two clips that hold the cabinet to the rear pannel. tilt the cabinet tword the front and remove it. the valve is right there on the right on the back pannel held on by 1 1/4 screw. remove the water hoses then the white and red conectors and the screw and remove the valve. then replace it all back in the reverse and you should be set to go
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
I RECOMMEND A TECHNICIAN TO REPLACE YOUR SOLENOID. "IF IT IS THE SOLENOID OR STRAINER". FIND A REPUTABLE CONTRACTOR IN YOUR AREA THAT SERVICES YOUR BRAND. IT SOULD NOT BE OVER $75 FOR THE JOB AND YOU WILL HAVE A ONE YEAR WARRANTY.
Posted on Jul 03, 2007
That corrosion has probably also occured in the solenoid valves that let water in or not (especially sounds like it if it happened over a period of time). You can probably clean them up a couple of times before they need replacing - get any mechanically minded person to do it and get them to grease them well. Couldn't find an inside layout diagram online, so I am guessing a bit, but they are usually easy enough to find - if you can get the back cover off or see up from the base, follow the two water hoses as they go into the washer. the first thing of any size they should come to is a thing that probably looks like a valve with a square plastic box in place of the handle. The box will be only connected by two wires up towards the control electronics. The bit that will need cleaning is most likely to be the part that the water goes through, but the electrical side can also corrode if wet, so is worth a check. (these are not too complicated inside). If you fancy doing it yourself then post me a couple of photos of what you have inside and I can try and talk you through it. If the solenoid valves need replacing, they are fairly standard so any washing machine shop should be able to get them, any problems please ask again and I can hopefully source some online for you. Hope this helps :)
Posted on Jun 28, 2007
Lanes, you probably have a bad inlet valve, Remove the hoses at the washer and see if the valve screens are plugged. If they are ok, you will want to see if you have power at the valves. To do this you will have to remove the cabinet and test them with a meter. Remove the 2 screws behind the top consol, the consol will flip up. Remove the 2 snap springs and the cabinet will lift off forward. Jump out the lid switch harness and put the timer to fill. At the valves see if you have 120V with the timer pulled out. If not it would be a timer issue. If you have voltage and no fill, then it's the valve. Fill valve part number is 3955673. Catriver.
Posted on Jun 28, 2007
You will have to get to the valve by removing the cabinet, not through the back of the washer. Much easier. Check out the pic. Catriver.
Double check your water lines to the washer. If you are sure that they are correct, go back to the valve and check the harnesses. They may be reversed. There is no temp. control on this model. Just the timer and the valve. This should be a simple deal. You do have both hot and cold water lines hooked up I hope. Catriver.
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Washing Machine Problems No Water
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WHAT TYPE OF TOOLS WOULD I NEED TO GET THE BACK COVER OFF THE WASHER. I AM GOING TO ATTEMPT TO DO IT WITH MY SON. THE VALVE SEEMS TO BE PRETTY INEXPENSIVE. IT BEATS GETTING A NEW WASHER AT THE MOMENT SINCE I PURCHASED THE WASHER IN LATE 2003.
I had the water valve changed and I now get water through the machine. The problem now is that it is not washing in hot water for the white cycle. Only cold water comes in but in the 2nd cycle I get warm water and it feels like it is rinsing in hot water because the clothes come out warm as opposed to cold. The hot water line is attached to the hot water in the back of the machine.
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