No power output from the amplifier...

Check your input or output cables might be dirty I had the same problem
and 1 of my output wire was dirty so i sprayed tha electric cleaner and its all good now
Aloha

There are three status indicator lights on the top of the amplifier. These are as follows:
1) "Power" (Green): lights to indicate that the amplifier is turned on and operating normally.
2) "Thermal" (Red): lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safe operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier. The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-power operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
3) "Low ω" (Amber): lights to indicate that the impedance of the speaker load connected to the amplifier is lower than the optimum impedance load range for the amplifier. When this light is on, a protection circuit engages and reduces the power output of the amplifier. The amber indicator will also light when a short-circuit is detected in the speaker wiring (this can be a short between the positive and negative speaker wires or between either speaker wire and the vehicle chassis).


There is only one condition that will shut down an undamaged 500/1v2 completely... If battery voltage drops below 10 volts, the entire amplifier will shut itself off. The green "Power" indicator on the top of the amplifier will turn off when this occurs. The amplifier will turn back on when voltage climbs back above 10 volts. This may happen in a rapid cycle when bass-heavy program material causes a weak charging system to dip below 10 volts momentarily. If this is happening in your system, have your charging system inspected to make sure it is working properly.

If your amplifier is blinking Green, and no output is coming out of the speaker, you may have internal damage to your 500/1 Amp.

"My amplifier turns on, but there is no output"

• Check the input signal using an AC voltmeter to measure the voltage from the source unit while an appropriate test tone is played through the source unit (disconnect the input cables from the amplifier prior to this test). The frequency used should be in the range that is to be amplified by the amplifier (example: 50 Hz for a sub bass application or 1 kHz for a full range / high-pass application). A steady, sufficient voltage (between 200mV and 8.0-volts) should be present at the output of the signal cables.
• Check the output of the amplifier. Using the procedure explained in the previous check item (after plugging the input cables back into the amplifier) test for output at the speaker outputs of the amplifier. Unless you enjoy test tones at high levels, it is a good idea to remove the speaker wires from the amplifier while doing this. Turn the volume up approximately half way. 5V or more should be measured at the speaker outputs. This output level can vary greatly between amplifiers but it should not be in the millivolt range with the source unit at half volume. If you are reading sufficient voltage, check your speaker connections as explained below.
• Check to ensure that the speaker wires are making a good connection with the metal inside the terminal block. The speaker wire connectors are designed to accept up to 8 AWG wire. Make sure to strip the wire to allow for a sufficient connection with the metal inside the terminal block.

For immediate assistance please call our Technical Support Department at 954-443-1100.
Otherwise, check this site out for Technical Assistance with your Amp:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=130

Here is your Manual:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/13320.pdf

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

bad system cofiguration too much load on rea amp

probably blew the amps or the pre amp section

The amber is the low impedance indicator and can mean that the impedance of the load is too low or there is an internal fault (shorted output transistors).

The blue LED indicates that the voltage is too low. This can be due to a bad connection or low battery voltage.You need to measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals of the amp to confirm that they're at or above 12v.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

This in an indication that there is a problem detected in the final output stage of the amp. This amp will require service. Crown amps are not teh most straightforward designs and should not be repaired by an inexperienced tech. There are high voltages present inside these amps that can be dangerous. The typical cause of this symptom are bad output transistors. Expect a parts cost in the $40 range plus the local labor rate.

Dan

Protection mode; follow this link to get a manual for the amplifier: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=439

Below information is from the manual:

Status Indicator Lights / Protection Circuitry
There are three status indicator lights on the top of the amplifier. These are as follows:1) "Power" (Green): lights to indicate that the amplifier is turned on and operating normally.
2) "Thermal" (Red): lights to indicate that the amplifier has exceeded its safe operating temperature, putting the amplifier into a self-protection mode, which reduces the power output of the amplifier. The red light will shut off and the amplifier will return to normal, full-power operating mode if the heat sink temperature drops back to a safe level.
3) "Low ω" (Amber): lights to indicate that the impedance of the speaker load connected to the amplifier is lower than the optimum impedance load range for the amplifier. When this light is on, a protection circuit engages and reduces the power output of the amplifier. The amber indicator will also light when a short-circuit is detected in the speaker wiring (this can be a short between the positive and negative speaker wires or between either speaker wire and the vehicle chassis).
There is only one condition that will shut down an undamaged 500/1v2 completely… If battery voltage drops below 10 volts, the entire amplifier will shut itself off. The green "Power" indicator on the top of the amplifier will turn off when this occurs. The amplifier will turn back on when voltage climbs back above 10 volts. This may happen in a rapid cycle when bass-heavy program material causes a weak charging system to dip below 10 volts momentarily. If this is happening in your system, have your charging system inspected to make sure it is working properly.
For information on troubleshooting this amplifier, refer to Appendix E (page 21).

If the protection LED lights only after the remote voltage is applied (head unit is switched on), the amplifier likely has shorted output transistors. If the protection LED remains lit without remote voltage applied, the amp may have other problems.

Does the protection LED light with no speaker wires connected to the amp and no RCAs plugged into the amp?

Set the meter to AC volts and measure the AC voltage on the RCA cables where they plug into the amplifier. The black meter leat will go on the shield ground of the RCA cable. The red lead on the center conductor. You may have to turn the volume up to get a reading on the meter. At high volume, you should read at least one volt but the actual voltage will vary due to the audio signal. If you get no voltage on the RCAs, measure the AC voltage on the input to the LOC. Let me know what you find.

check all op amps for correct voltage swing +-should be equal,test output of op amps no voltage should be present, use chasis gnd as tester neg.check voltage regulation especially 12v or 15v +-.note some amps show unequal led indications when only 1 channel connected to a load.I will try to get some more info on this specific amp because i don't know this circuit well,keep in touch as you update though.