Propane Generator, will not start. It has been cold out (-15F) at night. Oil was very close to a wax color and flow rate. Used an oil heater to warm up the oil. No Carb heater ( on order). Engine will crank, but not fire up. Tried over several days, varying temps up to 30F. still no luck.
Will the Carb Heater cure this problem? If no, any ideas on what to look at next?
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Re: Kohler 14 RES won't start
You need a couple of things / options. The carb heater base, and an oil heater (srews in the drain hole, and possibly a battery blanket at that temp. Some OEM's offer an adhesive strip that you can also stick to the bottom of the alternator, that is also 120V and warms the generator windings to keep moisture out
Not sure what country you ar ein but in the USA/CA they will be a 120V accessory and as such need utility power at the generator
You have to reset it because it locked out on on under frequency. Just pullout the fuse on the control panel and then reinstall it a couple of seconds later. Now it will reset the fault codes. Hope that helps.
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I'm assuming you have a Hammond organ, and also that it's individual notes rather than the whole generator. it sounds like the individual tonewheels are dragging, normally due to oil not getting to the place it needs to go. The thread system may have been damaged, or there may have been something other than Hammond oil used at some time in it's life, which can lead to wax building up on the threads and blocking oil flow. If it's the whole generator it's the same problem but on the main bearings. It doesn't take much drag to make an audible difference. At any rate, I'd suggest getting a in-person diagnosis from your local Hammond repairman.
When it's cold outside, the oil inside the engine is just as cold. My 99 Silverado does not like starting when the temp gets below 10 degrees any more than I like going out in that temp and starting it. I have the engine block heater in my truck and I ALWAYS plug it in the evening before I know I'm going to use it. I also run Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W30 oil in it. 5W30 is a very light oil that will resist cold weather thickening sufficiently enough that it will start flowing immediately after starting. I know some people think that a heavier oil should be used in the winter, but that is absolutely wrong thinking. USE THE LIGHTEST OIL YOUR OWNERS MANUAL RECOMMENDS IN WINTER!!!!!!!!! Most modern vehicles owners manuals recommend 5W30 used year-round as the recommended oil, but 10W30 may be used if the temp will be above 0 degrees for the majority of the next oil service life. However, the most modern vehicles, i.e. those built since 2008 may require 5W30 only, or 5W20 as well. CHECK YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR THE PROPER OIL WEIGHT FOR YOUR VEHICLE!!!!!!! Some vehicles even go so far as to REQUIRE synthetic oil. Any 2011 or newer GM vehicle MUST use synthetic oil that has Dexos on the label. At this time, only synthetic oils have the Dexos rating in them. If your vehicle calls for using only 0W20, then only synthetic oils are made to 0W20 specs. DO NOT USE ANY WEIGHT OF OIL YOUR ENGINE IS NOT RATED TO USE!!!!! Just forget about 10W40 or 20W50. Your dealership will just look at you and tell you your broken engine no longer is covered by the manufacturers warranty if you use an unapproved oil for your engine. Again, check your owners manual for the recommended oil weight for your vehicle.
If you have a propane heater I would try that. If you have a tarp, create a tent over the front to keep the heat in. I would guess that it would warm up pretty quick. You really just need to get the block hot enough for the oil to flow better.
It isn't likely fuel line has frozen, I would suspect more the oil is like glue, and the battery is probably shot. You may wish to consider a cold weather kit, you can get other brand OEM oil heaters that screw in the drain plug hole, battery electric blanket, and alternator strip adhesive heaters.
cold weather kills batteries this time of year...heres why..most batteries are a chemical factory..the acid and water separate as the battery discharges..also the chemical process is lessened when the air temps go below freezing by around 50% or more depending on the age of the battery..in extreme cold areas, external heat sources are required to keep engines warm enough to run..in alaska for example,the batteries are taken out entirely and put inside to keep warm..sometimes a fire pit is used to warm the engine from below (red hot coals no flame)..also in very cold weather, the engine oil will get very thick..in some cases the oil will actually glue the engine semi solid..locking it up..if its a cheaper oil that whathappens..I like 20 miles north of st louis in illinois and when it gets below 30 degrees outside i place a under cabinet 350 watt heater(used for keeping food warm to serve) upside down under my engine overnite..this keeps the block warm and the oil thinned out..and works very well for me..my car will start whe no one elses will in my neighborhood..hope tyhis helps you..
The overheating and lack of cabin heat both point to a failed engine thermostat which would be stuck closed. At the warm up stage, the coolant stays in the engine block to bring the engine to efficient operating temperature, then it opens and circulates the coolant through the radiator and heat core. If the thermostat is stuck closed, the engine will overheat, and coolant will never reach the heater core, and you will not get cabin heat.
Blinking oil light at idle which goes away during driving could be a low oil level, but may also be a drop in oil pressue. You could have a clogged oil fliter (at best) pickup tube, or a failing oil pump.
go to an auto parts store and get an electcic dipstick heater . remove your oil dipstick after parking car for the night.install electric dipstick preferrably while engine is still hot plug it in at night .this will
help keep the oil warm and also the block after car starts unplug heater remove it and install original dipstick. this is the easiest to install but there are also block heaters