I have had two of these subs for quite some time and have not had any problems til today. Upon re-installing my system,i could only get my right subwoofer to go. I switched the speaker wires and had the same result, which proves that the speaker wires are in working condition. I then took the non-working subwoofer out of the enclosure and checked all the connections and all appeared to be secure. Im out of ideas of how my left sub could just stop working like so.
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It's surprising to see one fail after such a long time, but most likely either one of the tinsel leads (between the speaker terminals and the voice coil) has broken, or the voice coil itself has burned out. You should be able to see the tinsel leads; if one has broken away from the terminal you may be able to solder it back into place. If it's broken on the speaker cone side, it's unlikely that you'd be able to solder it without damaging the cone. A break in the voice coil won't be visible; to test for it, check for continuity between the two terminals.
Unfortunately, it's probably going to be easier to replace the subs than repair them.
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if the guage is unreliable and its the only one that is, may switch to an aftermarket separate oil pressure guage that mounts elsewhere and be done with the situation entirely..these run around 25 bucks and its time to install and it wont fail like electronic ones do...
it sounds like it could be a blown channel in the amp. if the sub was blown it would still work just sound horrible. i have blown many subs and amps. you can bring it to an audio shop near you and they can fix it. i just got one of my channels fixed for 35$
Holy mackerel you have a ton of power i bet that ****** is loudddddd-sounds like your charging system isnt quite keeping up with the amount of current draw that your amps can pull.Upgrade your alternator and look into a dual battery system using an isolator-that way your alt will charge both batteries but your amps will only pull off the one battery-you can look online into how to set that up its not that hard for someone that has managed to install the gear that you already have- Some folks if not most would encourage you to get some sort of capacitor to store power blahblahblah-BUT a dual battery system has waaaaayyyy more storage capacity than a capacitor does-check out the pro competitors online they arent using capacitors to run their stuff they use banks and banks of batteries to get their power-brother you need more juice
I've got a pair of these MTX's subs powered from a Fusion 450 watt 2-channel amp. For the price, they are great. By the way, they are 4-ohm.
My first suspicion would be that something in the first incorrect wiring damaged either the amp or the subs. Can you explain specifically what the "installing the subs incorrectly" means? Was the amp output shorted out at any time or was it operated without a load? Either of these conditions will fry an amp and sometimes, the protection circuitry doesn't work either.
First make sure that your amp is still working. Check both the primary power fuse, usually located near the vehicle battery, and the fuses on both sides of the amp. Make sure that when you turn the system on, the power light comes on steady (blinking is protection mode). Test your subs one at a time on a speaker output.