Cordless Kettle Plastic button (internal part)broke, so lid won't stay shut,and kettle won't shut off automatically. Can I get this part and can I fix myself?? Thanks

modern kettle are made to be disposable items. You will need to buy a new one.

Contact Russell Hobbs:

Kettles Toasters Irons Kitchen Appliances Russell Hobbs International

Had same issue on 2 B&D JKC930C kettles. Just push in button (hidden under front of lid) located in the centre above the spout with a butter knife and the lid will open.

Over time the heat can causes the plastic parts to swell until the button that releases the lid gets stuck. The button can be easily & carefully pried completely out of the hole with a knife **note the orientation of the button and spring for replacement. Clean the button & hole but expect the button to still stick when re-inserted back into the kettle. Take the button back out and if you take a knife and gently carve/scrape away some of the plastic round the inside of the rim of the 'hole' and around the edge of the plastic button, you can remove enough of the plastic so that the button now moves easily back and forth in the hole releasing the lid. Good luck.

try supper glue??? but dont hold your breth that this will work,,, it realy dont like hot wet places! i know this from first hand experience,,,
as its holding up my left lung!!!!!! and im not kidding you there?

Try pushing the basket to the back so you can reach the lid switch housing - you should be able to re-align it by hand.
If that is impossible, that means the lid switch plastic housing broke loose and needs to be replaced.
I would need a model # so I can help you with instructions.

used a metal nut to replace the plastic one,

Some switches are called momentary and others are the click on and click off type.
It could be a problem with the switch if is is the click on type.
It could be a relay that "seals in" when you press the on off switch to on.
By "seal in" I mean, the kettle is wired so that when the relay coil energizes, it closes a contact when it is electrified and becomes an electric magnet and the energy that was going through the on off button, is now going through the closed contact on the relay.
If you don't here a clicking sound like you used to, it could be a fuse inside inside of the electrical box on or by the kettle.
I don't know by the information, if this is a household small appliance or commercial?
Even if household, it should have the same basic setup.

This may be of some help to you

What About The Kettle?

Despite being metal the kettle is cool touch (a tough special grade plastic interior). A good safety feature is that the kettle will only switch on when the lid is closed, there is a special lid release button. The kettle also has automatic overheat protection. Of course the kettle is cordless and has cord storage in its base. Water quality? Well, it's better if you use filtered water, but with this kettle it is even better - it has a removable stainless steel limescale filter in the spout!

I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.