Question about Cuisinart CJK-17BC Cordless Electric Kettle

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Cordless Kettle Plastic button (internal part)broke, so lid won't stay shut,and kettle won't shut off automatically. Can I get this part and can I fix myself?? Thanks

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  • Frugal Nov 04, 2007

    Same problem and I need the sealing ring that the water level indicator goes through. Its made of silicone.

    I have tried a 2 dealers in Ottawa Ont Canada and they tell me to toss the unit and buy new!. Paid $70.00 2 years ago.

  • Anonymous Feb 14, 2009

    Our lid won't stay closed and nothing appeared to be wrong. So I took the handle mechanism apart and discovered the button extension 'thingy' was broken inside. Is there a replacement part?

  • Anonymous Mar 17, 2014

    Ive just noticed that there is a plastic piece loose in my pyramid accent kettle. Not sure where it fits?

  • Anonymous Mar 25, 2014

    The button on the lid does not always release the lid catch. Is it possible to remove the lid by unscrewing the two screws under the lid, and somehow clean the mechanism inside?

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I went to the hardware store and found a black plastic knob, added washer and nut inside--voila! Fixed for about $5.

Posted on Apr 11, 2013

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There isn't a part available, cuisinart are horrible for parts, hence I will never buy anything from that company again.

Posted on Apr 25, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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modern kettle are made to be disposable items. You will need to buy a new one.

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as its holding up my left lung!!!!!! and im not kidding you there?

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Started the washer and then it stopped and machine


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I would need a model # so I can help you with instructions.

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Some switches are called momentary and others are the click on and click off type.
It could be a problem with the switch if is is the click on type.
It could be a relay that "seals in" when you press the on off switch to on.
By "seal in" I mean, the kettle is wired so that when the relay coil energizes, it closes a contact when it is electrified and becomes an electric magnet and the energy that was going through the on off button, is now going through the closed contact on the relay.
If you don't here a clicking sound like you used to, it could be a fuse inside inside of the electrical box on or by the kettle.
I don't know by the information, if this is a household small appliance or commercial?
Even if household, it should have the same basic setup.

This may be of some help to you

What About The Kettle?

Despite being metal the kettle is cool touch (a tough special grade plastic interior). A good safety feature is that the kettle will only switch on when the lid is closed, there is a special lid release button. The kettle also has automatic overheat protection. Of course the kettle is cordless and has cord storage in its base. Water quality? Well, it's better if you use filtered water, but with this kettle it is even better - it has a removable stainless steel limescale filter in the spout!

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1 Answer

Red light flickers, goes off, no heat


I had a similar failure with my Braun WK600. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettleful's; so far so good!

Oh, and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault.

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