GE PRofile DPSR475EWOWW

The drum rides on two rubber rollers with nylon or plastic centers which become worn over time. You can access the rollers by removing the front lower cabinet under the door. Other points to check are the tension pulley which provides tension on the belt which you can access from the removed lower panel. The cabinet has a felt ring as a spacer preventing the drum from rubbing against the cabinet which may have fallen or become worn, which is rare. If you still have not found the cause you can attempt to run the motor without the belt to eliminate squeaking from the motor.

Hi,

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Pull your dryer out from the wall. Behind it, on the bottom, you will find a lower panel that will give you access to the unit's belt tensioner (also known as an idler pulley arm). Remove the screws holding this panel in place, and then remove the panel itself. Reach inside and release the belt tension by removing the belt from the motor pinion.

Please check this bellow link if it helps:-

http://www.wikihow.com/Change-a-Clothes-Dryer-Belt

Please get back to us if you have any further query.

The belt tensioner pulleys bearing is dried up squealing while turning. My advice is to replace the belt & the pulley on the tensioner
The top and front panel will have to be removed to access these parts

replace the belt and tensioner pully to eliminate the squealing

Sears sell these parts in sets

Here's how to replace a belt on an GE Profile DPSE810EG4 electric dryer. There may be some minor variation for other electric GE dryers, but it shouldn't be too different. DO NOT USE THESE INSTRUCTIONS ON GAS DRYERS AS ADDITIONAL PRECAUTIONS MAY BE REQUIRED! For the electric DPSE810EG4, you will need a #2 Philips screwdriver, a flashlight, a new belt, and patience. You will also need something very close to the left front of the dryer against which you will lean the front panel. A chair, a washing machine, or a wall all work fine for this purpose.

1) UNPLUG THE DRYER FOR YOUR SAFETY.
2) Pull the dryer away from the wall and disconnect the ducting.
3) Remove the top four screws on the back panel. (These secure the control panel)
4) Open the dryer door and remove the two screws on the top of the door frame. (These secure the top panel.)
5) Pop up the front of the top panel and slide the top panel forward an inch.
6) Unlock control panel by sliding it to the right, then pull it up to detach it from the top panel.
7) Lift off the top panel and set it somewhere
8) Undo the two screws that hold the front panel.
9) Pull up a little on the front lip of the drum while hinging the front panel forwards. On the DPSE810EG4, you can set the drum down on the support member that is underneath it. (On other models you might need to put something under the drum for it to rest on.)
10) Lift the front panel off of the pins that secure its lower end, and then hinge it to the left (be careful not to yank the wires). Lean it up against something.
11) Open the access door on the back. (On the DPSE810EG4 the access door is the exaust duct itself; remove the screw that secures it and slide it out of the dryer.) Set your flashlight inside the dryer aimed so that you can see the motor and the tension pully.
12) Remove the old belt. If it's snapped in half you can just pull it out. Otherwise, reach in through the back access door with your left arm and pull it off the motor, then come around front, lift up the front of the drum a little and slide the belt off the drum.
13) Reach in through the back access door with a cloth and remove any grease blobs on back of the tension pulley axle. (This way you won't accidentally get grease on the belt during the difficult step which comes next!)
13) Install the new belt. Lift up the front of the drum a little and slide the new belt onto it (the side with the parallel grooves should be touching the drum). Reach into the back access door with your left arm. Grab the belt and pull it around the right side of the plastic tension pulley and then pull it down around the metal motor pulley. You're less likely to get your fingers stuck if you grasp the belt from the front. (The side of the belt without the parallel groves should be in contact with the tension pulley. The side of the belt with the parallel grooves should be in contact with the motor pulley.)
14) Replace the front panel. Set it down on the pins, then hinge it forward while pulling up on the front lip of the drum. Secure the two screws.
15) Make sure the drum turns OK. (If it's fairly difficult to turn, you may wish to try removing the front panel and then try putting it back so that the drum sits inside the felt strip semicircle rather than compressing it. A drum that doesn't turn well will stress the motor and cause it to pause mid-cycle.)
16) Replace the top panel. Put it on top of the dryer, insert the control panel tabs into it, and lock them by sliding the control panel to the left. Slide the top panel back and pop it down in the front. Secure the front with the two long screws and secure the control panel with the four short screws.
17) Replace the rear access door / exhaust duct. Double check that you didn't leave anything inside (including your flashlight). Slide the exhaust duct back into the dryer and secure the screw that holds it.
18) Re-attach the rest of the ducting and move the dryer back into position.
19) Plug it in and make sure it works.

HI, Most squeaky noise will come form the idler pulley. it may have excessive bearing clearances or , the pulley may just be damaged. i recommend inspecting it.

Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be firm and tight, and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.

Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced.

Check the following areas thoroughly to address this issue.


1. Venting
Make sure the dryer vent hose, as well as the rest of the vent duct, is not clogged.

Unless regular maintenance is performed, chances are there is a lot of lint accumulated inside the dryer. This might affect the drying time and could be a fire hazard. Make sure to have your dryer cleaned regularly. Because this might involve taking most of the dryer apart, it is recommended to have a qualified appliance repairman perform this task.

2. Thermostat
There are a couple of cycling thermostats inside the dryer. If one of them breaks down, it might affect the dryer's performance. Replace the defective thermostat.

3. Heating element
A heating element might only be partially burned out, in which case it would still work but will take longer time to dry the clothes. Replace the element if found defective.

Concerning the squeaking sounds. this can be caused by a bad drum belt or a leveling issue as well. more issues will be bad drum support rollers or, a failing bearing assembly in the idler pulley. the blower, baffles and guides will deteriorate as well, causing noise overtime. These are most of the uncommon issue that will cause this issue, but the most common issue will be failed idler pulley bearings. The pulley will tend to squeak very loudly if the bearings are worn.

Access to the idler pulley varies by model, if your dryer has a lower front panel (kick plate) start there. It should lift up and off or it may be held in place with a few screws or snaps; it may also have a catch at the edges or center gap between the kick panel and main panel. To release the catch, push a putty knife, wrapped with masking tape, into the gap and push back the catch. The next easiest access point is the rear panel. The rear access panel is held in place with several screws along the outer edges. The last resort method of access is the removal of the entire front panel. The front panel supports the front of the drum and so removal is more difficult. Front panel removal varies. In general, access is gained by lifting the top (remove the lint trap screws first), removing the screws that secure the front panel, and detaching the panel from the drum.

When reaching into the dryer be careful of sharp edges on the cabinet and interior supports. Reach in to the belt and give it tug. It should be taught and have only a little give. The belt should go under the idler pulley and over the motor pulley. Lift the idler pulley toward the motor to relieve tension on the belt and remove it from the motor pulley.

Turn the idler pulley wheel, it should turn smoothly, quietly and without any wobble. Inspect it for cracks or uneven wear. If the idler pulley does not maintain proper tension or is damaged it should be replaced. Depending upon your model, the entire assembly or just the wheel or bearing may be replaced.

Open the door and remove four screws which go into the dryer top. Swing top back. Take out the screw on each side holding the dryer front to the side panels near the open top. Tilt the dryer front forward and lift it off the bottom pegs, then swing it to the side. Leave door switch wires connected. Lift up slightly on drum to allow the belt to be placed around drum. (grooves of WE12X82 belt touch the drum) Belt goes down from the left side of the dryer directly to the grooved motor pulley, then around the belt tensioning pulley and back to the drum. Your model has a removable panel at the bottom side of the back which will allow easy access to the motor pulley area.

Further dissassembly is required. You'll want to do this anyway to inspect the heating elements. Some of what I say my not apply to your model (because you did not list a model number). 1. Disconnect power to dryer. 2. open door and remove screws going up into the dryer top. (two or four) Usually these are phillips screws, but you may find tri-wing phillips or T-15 torx. 3. swing top back, allowing access to remove the two screws holding the front panel to the side panels. (near the top) 5/16 hex or twin drive (phillips / #2 robertson square drive) 4. tilt front panel forward, lift off and swing to the side. You don't have to remove the door switch wires if you don't want to. 5. Pull drum forward a few inches. (it's a tight fit to get it past the dryer sides) 6. release dryer drive belt. 7. Finish removing the drum.
8. inspect coil heating elements. If one or both have a break in them, you can replace just the coils, you don't have to get the entire big metal part that holds them. 8. Clean and reassemble. (check the teflon rear drum sleeve bearing and the front drum support slides. now's the easiest time to replace them if needed.) 9. put the drum back in, then the belt back on by reaching your thin arms way back to the belt tensioning pulley. The grooved side of the belt touches the drum and goes down directly to the motor drive pulley on the left, then around the tensioning pulley. 10. Put front back on dryer. 11. turn drum by hand several revolutions to make sure the belt is not twisted or comes off. 11. Finish reassemble, connect power and test. You're done !

The belt gets tight when you press the pulley arm down place the belt over the outer edge of the pulley and then over the motor axis. The belt then runs like in a "eight". Christian