My RCA 27V412T TV turns the screen red

SOURCE: RCA 27V412T FPA LOCK ON & REMOTE LOCK

If the front panel lock is on, you will need a working original remote (or a universal remote properly programmed for RCA) to turn the set on. The IR receiver is next to the buttons on the fromt but the RCA IR receivers are very reliable, and I have yet to see a bad one in a modern RCA TV. Once you turn the set on by remote, you can enter the menu and turn the FPA off.

SOURCE: RCA 27V412T TV Problem

sometimes its not the connections... but its the toggle switches at fault

SOURCE: RCA 27V412T

ok! change all tact switches! your tact switch has abnormal resistance! thats why your tv is changing system!

SOURCE: help my rca model 27v412t tv is going nutts

RCA HAS A KIT! which includes different solder and some paste for a better solder flow!

I resoldered mine without knowing that and it lasted 7 months before it started up again.
so now I'm on the way to givin it a total resolder on every component that creates heat , hopefully that will last another 7 months at least , also note that I replaced R033, R034, and C230 , if this continues to do it again I'm going to replace EEPROM and x001( crystal at 8.000mhz) and the IR sensor. I'm guessing that rca must have known that the sets heat up and the solder joints become bad ,I belive that the flyback and other hot components will do the same thing , as I also belive most of the models of this type chassi will encounter the same issues comming from bad solder or dried solder, if problem is not corrected soon then EEPROM the crystal and other components will suffer severe dammage, then the set is just another piece of history.
good luck to those who own one

SOURCE: OLDER MODEL RCA HOME THEATER PICTURE AND PICTURE

Hi Unykue,

I am an electronics technician who just happened have been given the same set as you because it was giving the previous owner the same problem. Since I am confident in my trade, I took the set and diagnosed noise in the remote receivers input to the cpu.

What this means is that a capacitor( or something) wasn't working properly and was either not filtering the noise out or it was introducing noise into the data stream that controls the TV through your remote control.

My fix was to essentially cut out the entire remote control input to the TV. Since I have a directtv box to give me remote control, I don't care if the TV's remote works anyway.

The way I did this was to open up the unit and find the front I/O board were the buttons meet the switches for power,chaennel, volume, etc. On that board there is a plug with white wires and one black wire. The two wires to cut are the one next to the black wire and the one all the way at the other end of the black wire. These two wires are easy to splice back if you do not like the results of this procedure so that there is really no risk of damaging your set. If you wish to verify the proper wires to cut, they are the two wires that come from the IR receiver's side of the board YET DO NOT GO TO THE OTHER SIDE WITH THE BUTTONS! There is one wire that does indeed go to both sides.

This may not be a perfect solution but it is free. I hope that this will help someone out there.

Len