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Hi Steve, If you have a test light check each side of the circuit beaker, one end on the battery neg and the other on each terminal of the circuit breaker. If you don't find one that only has power on one side, get some to try the windows while you check them again, the circuit beaker may only be failing under load.
try the zsus,which would be my favourite choice.if the fuse has failed,thats the problem.dont bother with a new fuse,its the ipm thats blown it.(intelligent power module).its the chip under the large aluminium heatsink.its the board to the right,looking from the rear.
You can do some troubleshooting by looking at the glass fuse after it has failed. If the element looks melted and there is no other discoloration, then the fuse probably blew as a result of an overload somewhere. If the fuse is burned black, then it's probably a short in the system.
You can meter the motors to see if they are shorted anywhere or open.
It sounds like you may be correct about the circuit board.
Hi steve,try the central locking fuse,fuse 63.its in a stupid place (thanks ford)its at the back of fuse panel.two bolts release the fuse board,turn it around and there it sits,20 amp fuse.replaced mine and its working great.hope this helps mate
1. UNPLUG THE CENTER JACK of the pcb, that leads to the computer board! LEAVE THE GROUND WIRE ON THE BOARD!!!
2 REPLACE THE FUSE. Both lights on the pcb should light up, that give you the 12 volt line, AND THE 24 VOLT LINE. If they are both lit, stay lit, and don't blow the fuse, then try plugging in the computer again ENSURING THE GROUND IS GOOD FIRST ON THE COMPUTER/TOUCHPAD!!!!!!!
3 If suddenly the fuse blows when you plug in the grounded keyboard cable back into the printed circuit board, or if one of the two lights on the printed circuit suddenly goes dim when the keyboard is plugged in, YOUR NAME JUST BECAME JESUS AND TODAY IS GOOD FRIDAY! Your computer and touchpad is defective and that is going to cost you BIG MONEY!
The convergence IC's you speak of are always mounted side by side and use the same #'s and are mounted on big metal heat sinks . Most start with STK392-??? . Also you may have bad resistors that are discolored and need changed as well . Some sets are protected by fuses but don't look like the typical glass fuses. They are pico fuse which could be green or yellow in color but look like resistors but do not have the color bands . Replacing the board could require a total convergence alignment. If you decide to take to a shop your avg. cost could be $250 to $300. If you do it yourself IC's and resistors or fuse would run around $50 to $70 bucks . Don't by the $9.95 IC's as they do not hold up as well . They should cost $20 to $25 apiece . Good luck
I had a similar problem with a jvc 8040. when I replaced the fuse it became very obvious that the b1560 output on the center channel was blown (smoke and sparks, always a dead giveaway). I haven't fixed the center channel yet but simply unplugged the center channel board and removed it from the unit. Now everything works fine except of course the center channel. Pre outs still operate just fine so a slave amp could be used for center channel power, or you could just go and buy a marantz amp; I did and then I realized that I was lucky that the old jvc quit.