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Dishwasher keeps running and countdown stalls randomly.

Then other day I started the normal wash cycle on my diswhasher and came back 4 hours later to see it still had 42 minutes left. I cancelled it and just quick rinsed the dishes to finish it. Tonight I started it and a kitchen timer at the same time (just to check) and the dishwasher stalled at 72 minutes remaining. It's still running and the timer isn't changing. Any ideas about what this is? Thanks, John

Posted by john gainey on

  • scrapbookbug Apr 07, 2008

    I am having the same problem. It is stopping (it seems randomly) midcycle. It has stopped in the 70's, 60's and 40's. I have made sure the lock button is off. I have run it several times, and it sometimes goes all the way through the cycle and finishes.

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1 Answer

Adam Dower

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    An expert who has achieved level 1.

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    An expert who has answered 5 questions.

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  • 2 Answers

Sounds like The settings have messed up it happened to mine a while back you need to do a hard reset of the dish washer mine was unplugging the thing then plugging back in 30 seconds later then holding the cycle button a few seconds and then power on again. Find your hard reset combination of what your make and model of the dishwasher is I hope this helps.

Posted on Jul 16, 2017

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Anonymous

  • 30 Answers

SOURCE: Dishwasher

Check to see if you have any switches on your dishwasher that could by pass a rinse cycle. Use a hotter temparture when washing, Check your water level,check your filters on your inlet hose top and bottom. When it gets to a rinse cycle you should hear it drain out and bring in fresh water. you could change to a liquid detergent. Dont over load your dishwasher. make sure you are using rinse aid and try adjusting it up one setting. Shiney glasses means your rinse add is working. NZL

Posted on Jan 05, 2007

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SOURCE: Kenmore Ultra Wash Dishwasher LIghts are blinking....

I just read this for the same problem: push sanitize, then heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, sanitize, heat and dry, cancel, then open and close the door. It worked. The dishwasher is running correctly even as I type this. 

Posted on Mar 22, 2008

Anonymous

  • 338 Answers

SOURCE: Clean light keeps blinking and I can't start a new cycle

That is a comon problem with that model. It is not sensing a temperature change in the water.

Push i believe it is heated dry and sani rinse going back and fourth between the two to clear the code and see if you can get it to complete a cycle. If it doesnt call sears and schedule service there is a service flash repair that should not cost you anything to repair the unit.

Posted on Nov 25, 2008

Anonymous

  • 117 Answers

SOURCE: For the last week none

You can visit me for more advice but I'd say to make the filter inside the dishwasher is cleaned out if your dishwasher has a filter.

<a href="http://tclaundryrepair.com/">St Paul Appliance Repair</a>

Posted on Feb 25, 2009

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LG WT4970CW, time seems twice as long as indicated on countdown timer, I timed it and wash started at 54 minutes counting down, 20 minutes later timer was at 47 minutes is this normal, came with house

Not sure but I think it is normal, not even sure it is a countdown timer - illustration shows just a single large knob which presumably is the main programme selector, which is basically an electric clock that keeps pausing whenever the washer is busy filling, heating, etc. and moving on when it is time for the next function.

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Some dishwashers can run for 4 hours or more normally depending on the options you choose. What do you mean by it runs through cycles is it always changing cycles by itself or is it just the cycle you pick just keeps on going, have you tried a quick wash or 1 hour wash does it do it then? is you hot water hot enough? if not it makes the unit run longer because it has to heat the water up. always run the hot water at the sink to bring hot water up from the water heater to the sing so the dishwasher fills with hot water and not cold.
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Why does my Fisher and Paykel DD605SS stall part way through wash cycle?

I'm not sure of this, because the manual does not have an error with a E. I can fine error F4. It says it encountered a faulty temperature sensor or element. If the heating element burned through the night you circuit breaker tripped (Sure it was not the ground fault circuit breaker?), then the dish washer can't heat the water, so the program can't continue. The program stops (waits) till the chosen temp is reached. If the water stays cold the program can't go on.
So also check the heater in the machine. I hope you are aware everything in the machine runs on high (or at least dangerous) voltages, so be careful not to work in the machine when it is still connected.
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The thing that immediately comes to mind is a faulty door switch or latch. The door switch can be replaced and you might be ok. But the latch would be more tricky to check. Sometimes if dishwasher is not level or if the door springs are misalinged the door tends to slip and release the latch due to pressure. It works when you open and shut. But not sure about the night time cycle. That sounds a bit creepy if it starts again by itself. Why not put a tape around the door and then start. That will help eliminate the obvious ones. The other thing that exends dishwasher cycle time is the lack of adequate water temperature. Could be heater or thermostat or both.
You should be able to stroll through the parts by selecting categories on this site.
http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts/a9b126d867701/Model-D3251White-Asko-Dishwasher-Parts
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OK, when you say it sounds like a record skipping does that mean its washing then not washing? what cycle are you using ? sorry to ask these questions but sounds like an unusual fault.is the water hot? could be control module or pressure switch fault. please reply and we can hopefully track down this fault.
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Dish washer does not turn on CL light stays on when reset count down 6 appears then goes to CL

Hello and welcome to Fixya,

I have a ton of service info on Bosch so it`s best I post you an exert from the service pdf`s I have on my PC which will explain the meaning of "CL" and then go from there. This is not a common indication of a control problem, but it could be a problem with the plastic casing which houses the control, we`ll deal with that later.

I`ve underlined the section pertaining to the "CL", this is for the SHU68** dishwashers only.

TO OPERATE:

First depress the On/Off Button until it locks in place.

Once the On/Off Button is depressed the LED above the previously used cycle will illuminate.

To change the cycle, simply press the desired Cycle Button twice. The LED above that cycle will then illuminate.

The Cycle Countdown will display an approximate run time for the cycle chosen.

This run time will depend on incoming water temperature and the turbidity of the pre-wash water.

Note: It is normal for the Countdown Display to remain at a time increment for more than one minute, or skip a time increment depending on the calculations of the Control Unit. Also, with continued use the Control Unit will learn the wash and temperature patterns for the most commonly used programs and will then reduce the overall start and running times.

At the end of the cycle the display will show a CL, indicating that the cycle is complete.

**TO CANCEL A CYCLE:
Press the Scrub Wash and Delicate / Econo Buttons both in at the same time. The unit will then drain and the figure CL will appear in the display.**

DELAY START:
The Delay Start feature allows the unit to be delayed for up to nine hours. To program, start the unit as described above, but after selecting a cycle push the Delay Start button. The display will show a 1h, or one-hour delay. Continue to depress the Delay Start Button until the desired delay time is reached (up to nine hours, 9h).
The unit will begin automatically once the delay time has elapsed. To reset the delay, press the Delay Start Button until it reaches 0h.

TOP RACK ONLY:
The Top Rack Only feature can be used in conjunction with any cycle. To active, press the Top Rack Only Button after selecting a
cycle, the Top Rack Only LED will illuminate and all water will be diverted to the upper wash arm for the complete cycle.

REFILL RINSE AGENT LED:
The Refill Rinse Agent LED is activated via a Reed Switch on the Detergent Dispenser, Section 4, Fig. 8-3. The LED will
illuminate when the Rinse Agent Dispenser is empty.
Service note: The Refill Rinse Agent LED will also illuminate when the dishwasher door is opened and then
closed even if the Dispenser is full, but will only remain lit for a few seconds.

“F” CODE:
An “F” in the display window indicates a filling fault.

Please note: If the door is opened during the cycle, the On/Off Button will be reset to off and must be depressed again to re-active the cycle. The cycle will resume from where it left off.

Now that you are equipped with this info, what I`d suggest is trying the **cancel option. ( ** see above )

Once you`ve tried the cancel option, select a Regular Wash and post back what happens and I`ll try to assist you from there.

Good luck.

macmarkus :)


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Bosch SHU 6800 Water hot at sink only luke warm at the washer

BAD CONTROL BOARD TO TEST TO SEE IF THIS IS THE ISSUE RUN TEST PROGRAM
To start test program, press and hold both SCRUB WASH and DELICATE/ECONO program buttons, then turn unit on by
pressing ON/OFF button. Initially, control module version # will be displayed (e.g./ “20” = version 0 without jumper). When
wash program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press ON/OFF button.
To check each program indicator light, press its button. To check Cycle Countdown display, Refill Rinse Agent light and
REGULAR WASH light, press REGULAR WASH button (press Delay Start button to test Cycle Countdown display
alone). Cycle Countdown display will show "88" when REGULAR WASH button is pressed and "8h" when Delay Start
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together, (e.g./ “6” = faults 2 + 4).
0 = No faults detected 2 = Heating fault 8 = NTC (temperature sensor) fault
1 = Aqua Sensor ("Sensotronic") fault 4 = Filling fault F = Filling fault (display occurs during wash, not test)
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
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at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), display will show fault code "4" and unit will continually fill and drain where
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testing will end shortly after water has started circulating
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