My split system wont heat properly. it seems to blow out hot air until it reaches 19 degrees celcius and then it switches to standby or blows cool air. i have tried changing the batteries and moving the remote. it doesn't seem to matter if we use the automatic function or the specific heating function. i have also tried adjusting the fan control. let me know if you have a solution.
regards amanda
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1,420 Answers
Re:
I do not suspect the remote, I think it is the return air sensor on the evaporator coil. If you can remove the plastic cover that encloses the coil do so and vacuum the coil and any sensors you may see. I suspect that a technician will have to perform a resistance test on the sensor.
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has the system air filters been serviced lately
is the system circulation fab been cleaned to allow full air circulation of the system
call in a technician to check for vermin infestation preventing the system from working properly
because you have the temperature set at 28 degrees celcuis . Change the temperature to 18 degrees and it will cool 28 is hotter
It is a reverse cycle air conditioner it will warm the room if you set temperature to 28 degrees . Set it lower and it will blow out cold air.
Have exact same air conditioner as I recognise the remote control.
point it at the air conditioner when altering the temperature setting.
Check under the slide compartment also on the remote for more advanced settings.
I have a couple of thoughts. You may have air in the boiler water circuit at the loop that feeds the tank. You'll have to find the vent in the loop to get it out. Second, the automatic valve that opens for hot water may not be opening fully. Have you felt both the boiler water lines that go in and out of the tank? If the water going in is hot and the line out is very cold you have very little boiler water going through the loop. Make sure the isolation valves on the loop are open. Is your boiler full of water? If the boiler loop lines are hot going in and coming out, the tank is full of rust or debris and no water can get to the fins on the internal tubing to pick up heat. If that's the case there is no repair and its time to get a new tank. Hope this helps good luck.
Your statement in it-selves solve the problem.
Your vehicle cooling system and air-conditioner system work independently.
Your vehicle cooling system is driven by the v-belt that turns the water-pump and circulates the coolant within the engine through the radiator and back into the engine and flow is controlled by a thermostat.
Your vehicle air-conditioning system operates from a v-belt that drives an air-conditioning pump which circulates coolant through a sealed system and generates cold air completely independently from the engine cooling system.
It seems that you need to repair the engine cooling system which has a fault and this fault could be
a) combustion seeping into cooling system (blown gasket),
b) cooling fan not operating (this fan engages at specific engine temperatures and suck cold air through the radiator in order to cool the engine coolant as it passes through radiator veins),
c) faulty cooling thermostat (thermostats work mechanically and through temperature expands and opens the water circulatory channel / opening, and in cold weather restricts this opening in order for coolant to allow engine to reach operating temperature and then allows the coolant to circulate freely),
d) engine combustion could be too hot due to fuel mixture discrepancies (too lean) thus overheating the internal combustion process which will overheat coolant,
e) engine cooling system leak causing the system not to seal thus restricting the pressurised coolant circulatory system (the system needs to be pressurised for effective circulation as well as raising the boiling point of coolant (under pressure water would boil at 110 degrees Celcius instead of 90 degrees Celcius).
Hope you find the problem soon as overheating is detremental to the engine and all integrate parts associated therewith.
Make sure the indoor filters are clean. The outside unit will continue to run until the indoor reaches the temperature you have selected. Dirty filters can throw the temperature out. Its common for outdoor units to freeze up when on heating mode if the ambient air temperature is below 5 degrees Celcius.. The machine should however, defrost itself. There could be a problem with one of the pipe or air sensors on the outdoor unit.
Chances are it is indeed the heater core as even a spent heater unit will blow hot air off the engine when the ambient temps are hot . When the temps drop, the heat from the engine block is not enough to heat the cab properly. Have you tried the old cardboard in front of the radiator trick? Speaking of semi's,ever notice they cover their radiators in the winter? That's because it helps get their block temps up a little higher and assists with heating as well. It's not much help but do the buyer a favour and let them know beforehand. Have a good one. :)
I have a 2000 pontiac grand prix with a digital climate control system.
The heat quit working, it doesn't blow out any heat. Now that it is warm
outside the air stopped blowing out any air. The digital temperature on
the climate control is not correct. When it states that it is below 30
degrees on the ext and it is warm outside the air wont be cold. Once it
starts going above 30 degrees the air gets colder. Today the blower stop
working all together. Was told it maybe the climate control unit was
bad. You can hear the door opening/shutting when you switch the temp
from cold to hot. But there was no heat blowing out whatsoever in the
winter time. Could you please give me your opinion on whether or not it
is the climate control unit or something else?
there is suppose to be 15--20* temp. different on the air supply & return air temp.Over 20* and the coil or the filter is plugged up. Below 13*--anf the unit is not charged properly.
to tricked the thermostat only a way i know,to put on it an ice cube for a while.propably wrong choice to installed roof unit you must installed to the floor better for the ac and to you
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