Question about Mitsubishi WD-52525 52" Rear Projection HDTV
I was watching my 2 year old WD-52525 TV this morning and the set was working fine. This afternoon I turned it on and It is mostly blue with a light blue center and flickering horizontal lines. I tried reset but it didn't help. It responds to the remote, but switching inputs/devices makes no difference (some devices have black instead of blue screens, but with the same flickering lines). The TV menus flicker and dance around the screen and are mostly unreadable. I did the "menu/device" button thing and get a 1 - 2 response which another poster stated was the code for "working normally." Any ideas?
I finally got around to dismantling the TV. This is no mean task. The chassis is tethered to the rest of the set my over a dozen wiring harnesses and a few of these cannot be disconnected near the chassis but instead require removing the “right support” near the air duct and taking the shield off the lamp ballast. Once the chassis assembly is out, it is a further significant task to disassemble it to get at the various PWBs (POWER, FMT and DM) having the suspect caps. I’m sure reassembling everything will be a fun job!
I have not yet had a chance to fix and reassemble but I wanted to post this no as I’m not sure when I will get around to it.
I did find six of the fourteen known-problem caps to be visibly bulging -- both 3300s and two of the four 1000s on the PWR PWB plus two of the four 1000s on the FMT PWB (see photos below). Ironically of the four 1000s on the DM PWB, which I have heard are the most common to go bad, were bulging and I considered skipping these as the DM it is the toughest board to extricate from the chassis, however I figured I had come this far and I would just as soon replace all twelve 1000 uFs as the parts cost $0.23 and I really never want to have to do this again.
If I had to bet, the two 10V 3300uF caps on POWER board, which were actually leaking black goo, are the actual culprits, but with four of the 1000 uFs also bulging it is probable only a matter of time until they failed as well.
Here is the POWER PWB with the known-problem caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A51, C9A52, C9A61 and C9A62) highlighted:
here's the FMT PWB with the known-problem caps (C8F19, C8F21, C8F22 and C8F27) highlighted:
and the DM PWB with the known-problem caps (C81A2, C81A3, C81B3 and C81B4) highlighted:Flickering blue picture - a158dce.jpgg src="/uploads/images/a158dce.jpg" alt="a158dce.jpg" class="h_mi" />
Here are close-ups of the bulging caps (C9A37, C9A38, C9A52 anFlickering blue picture - bb3e69c.jpg the POWER PWB:
And here are close-ups of thFlickering blue picture - 1a03490.jpgaps (C8F19 and C8F27) on the FMT PWB:
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
This problem is most likely related to one or two blown 3300/10v capacitors on the power supply.
If you are handy, patient, and can solder then the repair is a snap. If you can't solder, I suggest you take it to a service shop and tell them exactly what you want fixed. That should save you a bunch of money.
Order the capacitors from Mitsibishi. They should cost you around $5 plus shipping and handling. If you want to verify the problem before you order the parts, you'll need to remove the powersupply which is located on the left-hand side of the unit if you are facing the back. The power supply unit is connected to all of the inputs; the whole thing slides out together. Once you slide out the powersupply and input unit, you'll need to remove the shield that covers the power supply. Inspect the capacitors and look for one or two that are raised or bulging.
The particular capacitors you are looking for are on the upper left hand quarter of the power supply board about 2 inches in from the left and about 3 inches down from the top.
Remove the two capacitors, solder the replacements, screw it all back together again and enjoy your TV.
The symptoms are varied but generally can be described as a faint flickering blue screen, often followed by the the lamp no longer operating or the tv going dark. Audio usually works. If you have the back off the TV you can see the lamp power up shortly and then cut off. This is symptomatic of this problem.
Write-me if you'd like more specifics.
Posted on Feb 16, 2008
In response to Neals solution #2, I was having similar problems with my 62525 and the service guy offered to fix for $600 by replacing a lamp ballast and lamp. The ballast was fine, I just followed neals instructions and illustrations (which were priceless by the way), and everything is fixed and working great. I replaced all 14 caps and I also got them from Mouser Electronics for under $20.
Thanks again neals, well done!
Posted on Jun 06, 2010
Just an update from the guy who started this thread:
With techman's help, I fixed this problem in an afternoon by switching out a few caps. Cost me about $7. Every shop I went to gave me an estimate of at least $1,000.00.
The disassembling and reassembling are the hardest part (assuming you know how to solder), but they are no problem if you have the repair manual. I NO LONGER HAVE the manual, but it is easy enough to google it and buy/download it. And while it may be "damn silly" for 'centralcoast' to try to fix it himself, anybody else who can read a manual, turn a screw driver, and solder a capacitor should have no problem with this fix.
It should be noted that several people posting here don't seem have to have the same problem as I did, so there is no reason for them to think that the solution is the same. Pay attention to which fix solved which problem, or you could end up even more frustrated.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
Did everything you suggested and the TV works GREAT!!! You saved us over $300 for a silly repair that cost us less than $10. We appreciate all the info you posted.
Posted on Nov 23, 2008
I got a WD-52525 on the side of the road that did not work. I replaced all the caps highlighted by NEALS and the tv works now!
THANKS NEALS!!!!!!!!! 52 inch hdtv for less than $20 in parts!
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
"PA" should go into the PB it is ziptied to the other wires that went to that board.
Posted on Oct 16, 2008
There is no wire for PA..
Any case I have replaced the 14 capacitors and it's still blinking. I did find that 4 of the capacitors I replaced were bad (bulging). But unfortunately it didn't solve the problem. :( Guess I have to pop it open and look a bit more inside. *sigh*
Any other suggestions?
Posted on Oct 02, 2008
Does anyone know why the capacitors bulge and how to prevent it? Also how do you take out the bad ones and install the new ones? Is it a matter of twisting it off and soldering the new ones on? Also, is there any easy way to get to them? Thanks for any help you may have. [email protected]
Posted on May 27, 2008
I recently changed about 10 capacitors, but I'm having problems with plugging in the correct wires. I labeled everything, but I can't seem to find a wire for "PA". Can you tell me if this should be left without anything plugged into it or should I keep searching? Thanks for your help.
Posted on Jun 27, 2008
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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