I have recently moved and ever since I installed it in my new home, the washer, at times stops in the middle of the cycle with the error message H F. Other times the washer does not drain completely. Any Ideas?????
There is an "FH" fault code, but I'm not familiar with an "HF" fault. "FH" indicates that no water is detected entering machine or the pressure switch trip not detected. After 30 seconds if no water is detected entering machine and the valves will be turned off and the error code will be displayed. But, since you said there IS water in the machine this probably isn't the case. Press PAUSE/CANCEL twice to clear the display. Since you have water coming in, check the following: 1. Verify Drain pump operation - you should be able able to hear it turn on during the drain cycle. Make sure the drain pump isn't clogged. There is a reservoir that you can open with the machine turned off to see if there's anything trapped in the pump. You will need to remove the lower kick panel in the front to access. The drain pump is located just behind the kick panel and his white or gray in color. You may want to use a wet/dry vac to suck all the remaining water from the wash tub through the drain hose. This will make it less messy when you unscrew the pump cover. Water will run out if you don't. Now, keep in mind, there is always some residual water left in the tub after a wash, but only a small amount. 2. Make sure the Pressure Switch Hose is in good condition and properly connected to Tub and Pressure switch. This should be a clear plastic tube running from the wash tub exterior to a pressure switch inside the machine. You will need to remove the top cover to look inside the machine. There are three screws holding the top on from the rear. Make sure you unplug the machine first. 3. Verify there is not a siphon problem. That is, make sure you haven't sealed your drain hose in the standpipe so tight that the water never fills enough. If you don't leave an air gap for the drain, the water will attempt to fill, then run right back out through the drain line. 4. Verify wire harness connections to: Inlet Valves, Pressure Switch, Drain Pump, Flow Meter, and Central Control Unit (CCU). Again, you will have to unplug the machine and remove the top cover. - Inlet valves should be located in the rear where the water inlet hoses connect to. Make sure they are not disconnected. - Pressure switch should be located in the rear of the washer on the right hand side as you are facing from the front. Make sure the electrical connection is connected and the air hose is not crimped, leaking, or has become disconnected. - Flow meter is a round (white in color on most machines) cookie-shaped device located somewhere between the water inlet valves and the dispenser. Make sure all connections are there. - Central Control Unit (CCU) is the "brain" of your washer. It is a gray rectangular box located in the central rear of the machine with all the wire harnesses going to it. Tough to say how you can determine if it is good or bad without replacing it. The board consists of several different relays and switches that control everything. Unfortunately, when one relay goes bad, you usually have to replace the entire board. 5. Check all hoses for possible leaks. If you check all your connections and don't find anything, more than likely you have a problem with your flow meter or pressure switch. I wouldn't rule out the fill valve, but you seem to be getting water, right? As a last resort, it could be your CCU which is the most expensive of the three items to repair (Usually over $200 for the part). I hope this may be of some help for you. Let me know if I can assist any further.
Posted on Jun 19, 2007
Your flowmeter is not sensing water coming in might need replacement part.
Posted on Jun 25, 2007
I have had the same problem lately, and just about a minute ago found that on the right hand side (cover off) there is a 2.5" daimeter round black and brown contraption with a wire harness leading to it from the left and a .25 inch hose going straight down from the bottom side of the round contraption. Attached to the hose was 1/2 of a bracket or standoff that was broken, and just below that was about a 1" gash worn through the hose from the basket, I suppose from not being held in place due to the broken bracket. I will fix the leak and report back if it cured the FH code/interruption.
Posted on Jun 26, 2008
Yep, that was it. And the culprit hose was dry when I inspected it, which was immediately after the FH code interruption. Must be a vacuum function or something (that right thar is my technical evaluation!). Anyway, problem solved. I will figure out a new bracket or standoff solution and off I go. Good luck to all of you, thanks for the help and direction, I appreciate it. Later.
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