Replacing control valve/burner valve switch

The pressure switch shuts the motor off when a designated pressure is reached. If you took that unit off then it wont shut off and builds pressure until the safety valve opens.

One of the 4 burner control switches on the front of each burner control valves has failed. Inside the thin ceramic switch there are 2 thin strips of copper that are pushed together by a rotating cam driven by the movement of the burner control knob. One of the thin strips is stuck together.
UNPLUG the unit and only plug it in briefly for testing.
The top has to be opened by removing all 4 burner caps and removing the 4 screws under the burner caps. Remove the caps completely but reconnect one burner cap and make sure it is grounded so you can test the igniter's. The gas burner tubing needs removed then the gas burner support has to be removed to gain access to these switches. To remove the wires from the switch you have to use a jewelers screwdriver to release the 2 wires from the switch one at a time. The switches are in series parallel so if one switch is stuck all 4 igniter's pop. To read out the switches you have to remove at least one wire from each switch and insert a short test wire to read for continuity, The switch that has continuity with the burner control switch OFF is the failed switch.
NOTE: the yellow and orange wires need to be insulated during testing. I use a folded paper bag or torn off strips of a cardboard box Just test briefly....
The part number for the switch is 7403P190-60 (Image search)
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Switch/7403P190-60/2326

There are numerous sources for the switch.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi
There are a few things to check for: First make sure the electrode (the small metal piece that the spark comes off from) is clean and the holes in the burner are clean, use a pin or paper clip to clean out the burner holes. The next thing to check for are theignition switchesunder the surface control knobs, the switches can twist and break and keep the spark module on and the spark keeps "clicking" even when the burner is light. If every thing looks good, you may have a badsparkmodule which should be replaced as sometimes cleaning can get moisture into the surface switches; try drying them with a hair dryer to see if this will help. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.
Daniel

one of your burner switches either got wet or shorted out. These switches are located on the burner valve itself. Sometimes you can take a hair dryer, pull the knobs of the control valve and dry out the switch. If this doesn't work, more than likley one of the switches gone bad.

unplug the range and wait 24 hours for the liquid to dry up. The clicking will stop when it is dry. The liquid has shorted the ignition switches causing the igniters to click.

As far a "popping" do you mean the igniter on the cook top "clicking"? Did you clean the range and use too much water? If water gets into the igniter switches they will short out and constantly click. Also if the polarity at the electrical plug you can get what is called "ghost spark" so make sure that the polarity is correct at the electrical outlet. Each gas control valve has a switch that turns on the igniter when the knob is in a certain position and they are all wired in a sequence. One of those switches may be shorted out or have a loose wire(range dis-assembly required to inspect). Do you visually see a spark at the electrodes of the burners or do the burners ignite? If you cannot see the spark then there may be a grounding issue and possible loose wire.

The clicking is not in the oven. You have a bad surface burner switch. Open the front control panel to access the surface switch. Remove one wire at a time for each surface igniter. They are located on each burner valve stem. When the clicking stops, that will be the bad switch. Replace it.

We had the same problem on a Thermador cooktop with the same RI-302 ignitor. Turns out it was one of the switches that sits on top of the gas valves. These switches cause the ignotor to fire when the valve is turned. In our case, one of the switches had malfunctioned and was "always on" causing the ignitor to continuously fire.

Juliac, the burner valve switch for that burner is either shorted or grounding out. Each burner control has a valve switch that controls the power to the igniter. Sometimes they just get full of gunk and short. Part number is PA020015. Catriver...post back.