Model MTB2656GE is not cooling. 2years old. light inside comes on so power is to the unit. Fans inside not coming on.
Stuck in a defrost cycle? Don't know how to unstick it.
Seems too new to have a major component go out.
Are there fuses somewhere that could be out?
Could there be a thermostat problem?
Thanks for your time!
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Re: Two year old Maytag Fridge not cooling
Pull the power plug for 15 minutes, then plug back in...same problem? tried adjusting temperature control knob (thermostat)? if yes to both questions, freon has escaped out of loop or faulty thermostat. Attempt force start of compressor with jumper clips: pull the power plug then find the two wires into motor and apply 120 VAC from jumper clips. If it spins, then faulty thermostat.
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Possibly a stuck or closed defrost sensor. The sensor gets to freezing which closes the switch. So the unit goes into defrost cycle which switches the flow of the freon on a Heatpump. The hot gas thaws the coil and the sensor. Which opens the switch and switches it back. I'm giving this answer without knowing more about the unit. Defrost light comes on & it doesn't run at all? LG system is a split unit or window unit or what?
Check out the defrost timer circuit - when that unit goes on, it disconnects power to BOTH the compressor and fans so the box will defrost. When cycle is completed or when a certain temp (via defrost thermostat) is reached power is restored to unit.
The thermostat also controls juice to the major components. If it is faulty no electricity is fed to the motors.
The unit needs two fans running and good airflow, one fan outside cools the condensor coil and the other inside the unit blowing across the evaporator. The compressor must start up. The defrost timer stops everything and switches on a heating element to defrost the evaporator for several minutes. Please verify these conditions.
Hello there Here is a run down of a call i did a few monts ago please read this fully ok The non-cooling refrigerator calls can sometimes be
difficult to isolate the problem because this type of call tends to be
rather generic and limited in information. The sealed refrigeration
system is responsible for the cooling that takes place within, but most
people will associate the other noises being produced as evidence that
something is working. That is why many times the compressor can stop
working, but the fans will continue to operate making the customer think
everything is still functioning. Defrost failures can have similar
symptoms by making the inside of the cabinet warmer than normal
resulting in the compressor and fans operating all the time. For these
reasons, it is always important when dealing with a cooling problem on a
refrigerator to verify operation of each component, and isolate the
failure to a specific refrigerator part as being the problem.
refrigerator was one of the nicer units to trouble shoot simply because
other than the lights being on, everything was off. And this being a
basic top mount, there isn't much to go wrong. I usually begin by
looking at the defrost timer and thermostat as they are the two
electrical components that will turn off the compressor and both fan
motors if they were to fail. Located in the same housing the interior
lights are connected, I tried to advance the defrost timer through the
access hold using a screwdriver. When that didn't seem to work because
it wouldn't move, I took the entire housing off to make sure I have
voltage to the components.
The wiring on this refrigerator has
power coming up to the control housing and splitting between the
interior light switch and the thermostat. From there it goes to the
defrost timer and then on to either the cooling or defrost components.
By verifying voltage in and out of the thermostat, I knew it was as
least passing current to the timer. The timer had voltage going to it
and out the orange wire to the defrost timer which would indicate the
unit was in a defrost cycle. Obviously for a day or more so I suspected
the timer motor had failed resulting in the switch contacts inside
remaining in defrost. But what troubled me was my inability to advance
the timer to switch the power from defrost to the compressor and fans.
decided to take the timer apart and have a look inside. What I found
was the switch contacts appeared to have been arcing for some time, and
eventually just melted themselves to the timer shaft. So it appears the
last defrost cycle that had started, while the customer was away, was
the last thing this timer did. Fortunately, the defrost terminator
inside the freezer section did it's job and cut power to the heating
element, or the customer would have returned to a melted refrigerator or
With the old timer removed, I installed a new defrost timer
in it's place and reconnected the wire harness. With the unit plugged
back in to the outlet, the familiar sounds of a working refrigerator
could be heard throughout the kitchen. I did a few more quick checks to
make sure everything was working properly then was on my way. The
customer lost allot of food because of this timer, but can now
confidently go shopping again after this repair.
Most likely the unit was in a defrost cycle when it was un-plugged. If you leave it plugged in and the controls "on" it should kick on within an hour and start cooling. If you could give me the model number I can tell you where the defrost timer is located so that perhaps you could manually advance it if it does not come on.
It may just be a defrost timer. Search online for information. There is plenty to be had. Check with the website of GE for a parts breakdown or your manual if you still have it for the location of the defrost timer. You can turn it manually so it goes into defrost. Does the unit seem to be running all the time and never shuts off? If so that timer could be stuck in the cool mode and the evaporator is freezing up solid so air wont flow over it to properly cool. I've had two refrigerators I've had to repair that had defrost timer problems. One stuck in the defrost cycle and wouldn't turn on to cool, the other did what you are describing. It stuck in the cool cycle and wouldn't defrost you may need to manually bypass the cooling cycle several times to allow it to completely defrost. Usually it cycles in cool from 6,8 or ten hours and only stays in defrost for over twenty minutes. That should defrost it and allow it to start cooling again. If you notice that frost has disappeared inside on the wall replace the timer.
I have a Samsung fridge model no. RS2556sh. We lost power and when the power came back on the fridge did not. The LED is blinking in the top right corner and the lights or on inside the fridge but not cooling in either side. It doesn't sound like the compresser or any of the fans are coming on. So, what's wrong?
Sounds like you checked for the proper items, fans to move cold air, etc. and if stuck in defrost mode. If the compressor is running you would have to be cooling unless... the refrigerant has leaked out. And that is basically a bad thing.
If in defrost cycle the compressor would stop while defrosting soooo it's looking like the refrigerant is gone. Can you take the back interior panel off to see if the coils have a full frost pattern?