I have a SW5L50 that has stopped drying clothes. I hear the fan running ...but the heat has stopped. Apparently, there is a "working thermostat" and a "safety thermostat" and a "heating element" I did a little sleuth work with the unit unplugged and the back off:
Working thermostat = switch closed (cold) Safety thermostat = Switch open (cold) Heating Element = closed (making continuity contact and not grounded)
My guess is that the Safety Thermostat is bad .... but I really don't know enough about it to say. My solution would be to replace both thermostat units because the safety one is "blown" or triggered off somehow....which might indicate a sticking "working" thermostat leaving the element to overheat. What do you think?
I have a SW5L50 that has stopped drying clothes. I hear the fan running ...but the heat has stopped. Apparently, there is a "working thermostat" and a "safety thermostat" and a "heating element" I did a little sleuth work with the unit unplugged and the back off:
Working thermostat = switch closed (cold) Safety thermostat = Switch open (cold) Heating Element = closed (making continuity contact and not grounded)
My guess is that the Safety Thermostat is bad .... but I really don't know enough about it to say. My solution would be to replace both thermostat units because the safety one is "blown" or triggered off somehow....which might indicate a sticking "working" thermostat leaving the element to overheat. What do you think?
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Sears Parts Direct is one source of the parts diagrams, https://www.searspartsdirect.com/model/1vc37q1bdj-003204/lg-wm3987hw-washer-parts . See the Dispenser assembly parts diagram for the water inlet valve. If you can watch the entire cycle, try turning off the shut-off valves for the washer inlet hoses after the rinse cycle and before the dry cycle starts. Water should not flow into the washer/dryer with the shut-offs closed.
I've seen inlet valve solenoids fail in the open position or in the closed position. I've never seen a control board that sent open messages randomly. (Sometimes, there is damage to the control board or corrosion or damaged wiring that stops the control board from sending the open/closed message to the solenoid.)
If the unit fails to spin it may be something as simple as a bad switch (or the no-spin button was inadvertently pushed in). The spin cycle is controlled by a circuit board that also checks for balance. If the board senses an out of balance it will not spin. Try running the machine empty; if it spins empty the load may be the culprit. If it does not spin empty you may be dealing with a bad circuit board. If any other component is defective it would not rotate at all.
Parts for these units are in rare supply since Supra has stopped importing these units in 2006 and the Spanish factory manufacturing them closed down. There are some parts available at www.billiotspecialties.com They also offer manuals and e-mail tech support. Billiot Specialties was the tech support contractor for Supra. The number in the manual actually rings to their facility but is not always answered.
You can get parts for the Supra SW5L30D from EdgeStar (can't figure out if EdgeStar bought Supra, or if Supra just changed their name or what). 866-319-5473. I've been able to get the parts I've needed, though they're not the most efficient operation. One time I had to wait for someone to get back from vacation before the part could ship...
I have a SW5L50 that has stopped drying clothes. I hear the fan running ...but the heat has stopped. Apparently, there is a "working thermostat" and a "safety thermostat" and a "heating element" I did a little sleuth work with the unit unplugged and the back off:
Working thermostat = switch closed (cold)
Safety thermostat = Switch open (cold)
Heating Element = closed (making continuity contact and not grounded)
My guess is that the Safety Thermostat is bad .... but I really don't know enough about it to say. My solution would be to replace both thermostat units because the safety one is "blown" or triggered off somehow....which might indicate a sticking "working" thermostat leaving the element to overheat. What do you think?
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