Rockford a2 not powering up

Did you check if fuse are blowin on the amp?

Check the RCA plugs where they mount to the board and make sure the shield ground pins are not broken. If in tact a regulator might have failed not allowing power to the op-amps.

It sounds like you either blew a fuse, or you cooked your amp. The fuse on the P200.2 amp is a 30A fuse, and it sits right next to the power, ground, and remote wire connections on the end. Pull the fuse out and see if it's blown. You should also check any other fuses that you have in the car before the amp.

Assuming your P3 has a single voice coil (it will have only one place to plug your wires into) you will be running this in a bridged mode. You will take the left (+) coming off the amp and plug it into the (+) on the P3. Then take the right (+) from the amp and plug it into the (-) on the P3. This will make your amp push 500 watts to your sub. Now on the amp make sure your adjustments are as follows: Signal input switch is set to unbalanced for RCA input. Left Phase switch is set to 0. Right phase switch is set to 180. your X-card should be set to low pass. And adjust the gain for both R and L equally so it has equal power from both channels.

Hello desperate2le,

Watts delivered is a function of the voltage times the current. If the amp was 100 percent efficient, it would need 33 amps at 12V for 400 watts. At 14.4V, it would only need 28 amps. Of course, amplifiers are NOT 100 percent efficient, only about 50-60 percent in many cases, but somewhat higher for monoblocks, maybe 80-90 percent. So you're looking at a fuse in the 60-80A range. In the absense of a specific fuse size from the manufacturer, I'd start the primary fuse at a 60A and if the amp blows it on power up/immediately/frequently, move up to an 80A.

All of the Rockford-Fosgate 2-channel bridgeables I've ever seen show using the left positive (+) and the right negative (-) for bridging. But if it's not shown right on the amp, I'd call or email RF for the correct connection. The new amps do show it.

Hope this helps.

Make sure that the speaker wires are wired correct at both the amp and the speakers......otherwise it sounds like the typical death of a power acoustik amp (great amps, but prone to a premature death)

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/robert_aad3edb7dfa380b9

Is the amp being fed directly from the head unit's RCA preamp outputs or is it being fed by another amp's preamp outputs? Try temporarily wiring up a speaker you know is good in place of the sub and see if anything changes.

Disconnect all speaker wires and RCA cables from the amp. Replace the fuse with a 30 amp fuse and power up the amp. If the fuse blows, the amplifier probably has shorted/leaking output transistors.

If you're talking about the amplifier's power terminals, the positive terminal is designed to be wired directly to the battery (be sure to fuse the amp power wire near the battery terminal). The negative terminal should be bolted to vehicle chassis metal for a ground connection. The only amplifier connections that go to the back of the head unit are the remote turn-on wire and the RCA cables.

Check the signal from your RCA'S   Your head unit may not be putting any output out of the rca jacks on the rear.  Or you could have a bad set out.   As long as your voltages are right on your positive terminal and remote and you have signal the only other reason your amp will not have any output is if the internals are bad.