KSRS25ILWH02 My ice maker does not work! I installed a new ice maker, and main control board, but the ice maker will not cycle. What am I missing? Is there a mainboard in this unit that supplies the voltage to the icemaker or do I need to replace the icemaker control unit on the side wall?

From what I know of ge, ice makers are independent. Mother board has no control over I'm. How old is this fridge. Some of the newer ge are made by Samsung and are control.

Is ice maker not working, do you mean it has no power at all.Then its faulty control board.But if there is power to ice maker and its not making ice then its not board but it can be faulty valve.---------

Ice maker stopped making ice. For this problem you have check few things. First thing, is the water filling in the ice maker chamber and then ice maker not making ice? Or, the water is not filling in the ice maker chamber so it's not making ice. If the water is not filling in the ice maker chamber then it's clear that ice is not getting made due to no water in the chamber. For no water filling, the problem is either water supply valve turned off so water is not filling. Turn on the water supply and it will fill. But if the water supply is turned on then the other possibility is ice blockage in the water fill tube. There is a tube from which the water runs and enters the ice maker chamber. If this tube is blocked then water will not enter the chamber. The tube needs to be defrosted, by using hair dryer. This procedure melts the ice collected in the tube and water starts running again. But if water fill tube is completely clear and no ice blockage or any other blockage. Then other possibility is water valve at the back of ice maker unit. This water valve is for letting the water in the ice maker. The water valve open only for 7 seconds and in this time the water fills in the ice maker chamber and then water valve closes and the same procedure runs again in the next water filling cycle.------- For your information I will mention that there are two valves. One is the main valve the back of the fridge section. This main valve lets the water enter the refrigerator and other valve is at the back of ice-maker section. This other valve lets the water to enter the ice maker. In most of the cases the fault is water valve at the back of ice maker section. ------------- The other above possibilities which I gave you is water not filling in ice-maker chamber so it's not making ice. But now consider that water is filling in ice maker chamber but it's still not making ice. Then the problem is ice maker unit itself. This unit is controlled by main board. But in most cases if water is filling the ice maker but it's not making ice then its faulty ice maker unit. So see if the problem is water not entering the ice maker then the water fill tube is frosted by ice or the water valve at the back of ice maker is faulty. Replace the valve. ------------

You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

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This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

Push the white paddle in three times slowly within 15 seconds. Then wait 2 minutes. You should see the ice maker start to cycle. If the ice maker doesn't cycle, replace the ice maker. If you need a new ice maker, you can go to the link below

Order Ice Maker

Refrigerator Parts

If the thermostat behind the left side of the fill tray goes bad, the cycle will stop completely. Cost of thermostat is $20.00. Cost of new icemaker with new motor and everything including thermostat is $45.00, brand new, on EBay plus shipping. Cost for new icemaker from repair shop, $153.00 plus tax. Control board circuit panels each side of freezer compartment will go bad also stopping the ice maker cycle. these control boards come in pairs, one for each side of freezer compartment. Cost for new circuit panel control board from repair shop, $215.00. Cost from EBay brand new circuit control board $45.00 plus $8.00 shipping. Easy to install both, icemaker and control board circuit panels. Phillips screw driver and small socket set is all you need for removing and installing these items.

possible problem. control board circuit panel on each side of freezer compartment. If it becomes defective, it believes that there is ice in the container or the door is open and will not allow the ice maker to continue it's cycle. $45.00 plus shipping on ebay. Brand new. Easy to install. Comes in pairs. Can be tested with an insulated wire but not sure which holes to connect. It is 110 volt so be careful. The electrical coupling on the right side of the freezer is the one that you test. If it is the circuit control board that is bad, the icemaker will start it's cycle as soon as you connect (2) of the holes with the insulated wire. I called out a repair company. They tested the control boards and found they were bad. Wanted $215.00 for something that I could get on EBay for $45.00 plus shipping of $8.00.

Its unusual that both parts would go at one time it could be you had a lightening strike or a power surge that took out both parts as they have nothing in common that one causes the other to operate other than temperature. This is what I would do. Since the control board is obviously bad I would replace that first. Let it run a day or two and if the ice maker does not start I would replace that part. I have linked them below.

To replace the ice maker module you must remove the ice maker and then remove the wiring before installing the new module to prevent the contacts from being bent inside the ice maker wire connector. Install the new module then connect the wires and place it in the freezer. Also if your ice maker has no water in it now the module is not the problem....get back to me.

Control Board

Ice maker Module

Have you got a slow flash or fast flash?
A slow flash is a problem with the sensor.
A fast flash is dirty condenser failed condenser fan.
See page 16


If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

ER means Error code......
The If error message indicates that the fan for the ice maker has failed. The main control board receives a feedback signal from this fan motor for the ice maker. If the feedback signal is abnormal or missing, then the error message will be displayed. The fan motor for the ice maker could be bad. You could also have a bad wiring connection between the motor and the control board. A remote possibility would be that the control board is bad. This is not likely since you noticed the ice melting in your storage bucket.

I recommend calling a service technician to diagnose and repair this failure.

Had the same problem. Bottom of freezer was about the right temp but the upper part was way too warm. Fridge side was fine. Ice maker stopped making ice - it wasn't broken, but it won't run through its cycle if the temp is too high. Cubes already in storage hopper melted and water refroze as it ran to lower, colder part of fridge. Problem: Fan controller for freezer compartment was faulty. The fan itself was fine. Fix: GE replaced the main circuit board that controls everything on this model, including the freezer compartment fan. Once that was done, temp returned to normal, ice maker is happy again. The board had undergone several revisions from the factory installed one (could tell this by comparing the part number on the old and new boards - they increment it when they revise it.) Bad news: the part/labor were expensive and of course failed after the warranty ran out. Good news: the board is now guaranteed for 5 yrs. (Why wouldn't the factory-installed board ALSO be good for five years instead of just one? It's not like the replacement boards are made better.) Labor is covered only for 90 days though so it won't be free if they have to come back after that.

What part was installed?

Ensure that the Ice Maker arm is in the down position.

There is a thermostat that closes when the ice mold reaches a temperature that indicates that the water in the mold is frozen if this thermostat is faulty it will prevent the Ice Maker from going into the dump cycle.

Hope this helps.