Question about Solid Audio F2500D 1-Channel Amplifier Car Audio Amplifier
I'm an electronics engineer whos been given a broken F2500D to 'look at' by a mate. It seems to be the voltage-inverter section that had a few dead components, i.e. 10uF cap C357 was blown to bits, 2 FR104 diodes were short-circuit, D356 and the one it's common-anode connected to (number covered by silicon-rubber). Plus the bit of track on the back of the PCB, between the anode of D355 / cathode of D356 and the T301 connection (feedback winding?) was burnt off. I've replaced these bits, put a 5 Ohm 25W resistor at the output and applied 12V. I can see the 12V at various places, but the LEDs are out and there's no sign of any high voltage or attempts for the inverter to start-up. Any suggestions, or a schematic would be much appreciated!
Mostly out of curiosity, did anyone ever go back and find those diagrams, or were you able to figure anything out on this one through other sources (since obviously we weren't able to fix it)?
Posted on Sep 07, 2007
Try following the "trigger on" wire into the amp and see where it goes. You may find a transistor, or diode, or thermistor that it must go thru to get to the 494. Do your main power supply MOSFET's have the +12v going to them correctly? It is fairly common for the 494 to get power from that source, but sometimes it is switched via a transistor from the trigger input wire. Don't forget to look for breaks in the traces or bad solder connections. It sounds like since you can force the amp to switch on that it is a very minor part that has failed or a bad trace, etc. Good luck. Hope this helps.
Posted on Jun 18, 2007
Yes there is a remote wire that has to be switched on from the head unit. If you want the amp top be on all the time, simply connect up the remote power wire to the B+ wire, but I would not recomend that. Good Luck
Posted on Jun 18, 2007
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
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