I need to replace the bearing--how do I get it off??

To replace pinon bearing you need to pull wheels and the brake drums off next pull cover off the back of the rear end (make sure you have a drain pan under rear end) next turn dive shaft till you see a small bolt remove bolt pull center pin out push axle in pull c clips out pull axels out remove four bolts holding ring and spider gears remove gears assembly next remove drive shaft remove bolt from pinon push pinon in remove seal and bearing

This hub bearing is a complete asm, it bolts on and not like some older cars where the bearing and seals are separte and must be pressed in and out with the spindle removed. to replace the bearing hub remove the tire and then remove the brake caliper, this is done by removing the two caliper bolts and then pull off and hang of to the side. next remove the brake rotor the rotr may slide right of or may need to be banged on with a hmmer to break it free, with the rotor off next remove the center axle nut on the cv axle this if in the center front as you look at the front of it, next on the rear you will see four bolts that need to be removed, look at the new hub asm to see the bolt holes to give you an idea on the bolt location, you can see the bolt holes from the front of the hub after removing the bolts you will then use a hammer to bang on the hub to break it free from the sindle, the bearing comes out the front, heres a picture of the hub bearing to helps.

The pilot bearing is pressed into the flywheel and you need a pilot bearing/bushing puller. Some A/P stores will rent it to you for free (deposit). the throwout bearing is held onto the clutch fork normally by clips. Sometimes you have to take the "fork" out to get the bearing off.

Make sure to note how "deep' the pilot bearing/bushing is so that when you install the new one it is set at the right depth.

Front - Remove tire, then remove brake caliper and caliper braket, remove brake rotor, some times will have little clips, remove clips, if they break ok, won't used them again, if 4X4 remove center axle nut, disconnect ABS harness, on back side of bearing, there will be three bolt's that hold hub bearing assembly, remove bolts, bearing should slide out, some time with a little help from a hammer, and your done , reverse to install new hub bearing assembly, just make sure that ABS harness is in same location that old one was when putting bearing in.

On 2004-2006 GTOs, you must have a lift. Set the parking brake. Disconnect negative battery terminal. Remove one screw from the cup holder bezel. This screw is under the business card holder, in the radius of the change holder. The shift knob is held in place by a set screw, I believe it is a hex. Next, pull the cup holder bezel up from the rear, by the console lid. Disconnect the window switches and traction control switch. Now remove the bezel and put it in the passenger seat. Raise the vehicle and set the lift arms done on the locks. The exhaust system from the catalytic converters to the tips needs to be taken out. Next step is to remove
the three bolts from the drive shaft damper. Next, remove the three bolts attaching the damper to the pinion yoke. These bolts are E torx bolts, I believe E14. After that, remove the drive shaft support bearing. These are 13mm bolt heads. Next remove the drive shaft, the transmission yoke is a slip yoke. From there, disconnect the speed sensor connector, back up lamp switch connector, and the skip shift connector. Next, disconnect the master cylinder fluid line which is on the driver's side of the transmission. Get a telescoping jack under the transmission and take out four crossmember bolts. Believe the bolt heads are 15mm. Next, take out the six bolts that secure the transmission to the bellhousing. These bolts should also be 15mm, but could be 14mm. From there, pull back on the transmission and lower the jack. The slave cylinder is attached to the front of the transmission, these bolts are 10mm heads. Installation is reverse of removal! Have fun!

The wheel bearings on your car is contained in a sealed wheel hub. You have to change the whole hub to change the bearing. Remove the wheel, the brake caliper, the rotor. There will be three bolts holding the hub on from the back. You will need to remove these bolts and slide the hub off of the spindle. then grease the spindle slide on your new hub and bolt everything back together.

Start by removing the center axle nut. (torqued very tight about 175ft lbs...you need a solid breaker bar with about a five foot pipe added for leverage, or 3/4 impact gun. then remove wheel and caliper and rotor. Remove the hub bearing by taking out the three 12pt bolts on the opposite side of the steering knuckle. Once those bolts are loose use wd40 on the hub parting line and hammer on the bolt heads to push the bearing out.Loosen the bolts each time they need to be backed off till the hub is loose. The axle comes out right through the hole where the bearing was. Make sure you grease the joints well because you cant once it's back together.

after removing the wheel remove the brake caliper and rotor. after removing the brake assembly look on back of wheel hub assembly look for three bolts. remove bolts and remove wheel hub bearing.

Yes those are bolts. You remove those from the back side. This takes a while sometimes. If you can't get them by reverse alone, try hitting them with impact in forward for a hit or two to brake it loose a little. If the new hub comes with new bolts, don't be afarid to brake them. PS, after those bolts are removed, don't forget to remove the nut on the axle shaft. You may also need to use an air hammer to help remove old hub after bolts are removed.

Hi

I just did this on a different model - it is a normal (right-hand) thread

This is best done with the machine lying in its front.

1 - If it's a Torx screw (probably a T40), buy a torx bit for a rachet spanner - Halfrauds do them for about a fiver - you may need an adapter as well if your rachet is 1/2 in drive. This is far better than using a bit in a screwdriver handle.

2 - Heat the pulley around the screw (careful use of blowlamp) as it's fitted with thead lock compund and this helps to soften it.

3 - If that doesn't do it, try a cold chisel and hammmer to knock it around - you need to break the thread lock initially. You might need to replace the bolt after this :-) and you need to be careful not to break the alloy pulley.

4 - If after removing the screw the pulleyt doesn't come off, try heat again and wiggle it off rather than a straight pull.

Bear in mind that after removing the pulley spider, getting the old bearings out and the one ones in is also best done with gentle heating and is not a trivial job.

Use blue thread lock compound when reassembling as this will come off easier next time.

Whole job, start to end took me took 3 1/2 hours

Ricko