Rheem mo. #22v40f1

Tank type heater?
Replace gas control valve?
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html#intellivent

Gene

Water Heater Timers Save Money

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Raising temperature above 120 degrees requires service call.
Or change dip switch settings and risk voiding warranty and causing service call expense.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-Rheem-Tankless-water-heater.html#temperature

Earliest versions of Rheem tankless 2006-8 let you set temperature up to 140 degrees F using remote.
However the hotter setting caused error codes because the burner cannot keep up with both high temperature and large volume of hot water rushing through pipe. Especially in winter with cooler incoming water that must be heated more to reach temperature set point.
The burner simply cannot keep up.
So Rheem changed maximum temperature at remote control to tepid 120 degrees, which is not hot enough for folks wanting hot shower, or folks filling whirlpool tub because water in tub cools before tub fills.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Problem is not thermocouple:
Thermocouple should be finger-tight plus 1/4 turn
Overtightening will short thermocouple against gas control valve, and solenoid switch will not open, and no gas will reach pilot once red button is released.
Tip of thermocouple has to sit in the pilot flame.
If pilot flame will stay on, then thermocouple is good.

Problem is not solenoid switch.
The gas control valve solenoid opens and closes gas supply to gas control valve.
On mechanical gas control valve, when you push down the red button to light pilot, then you are opening the solenoid and letting gas flow into gas control valve.
When heat is applied to thermocouple, a small electric current travels to gas control valve, and this causes solenoid to stay open.
If you extinguish pilot, then no current travels to gas control, and solenoid clicks off.
You can hear it click, and this is how you test it.
However, since you are getting gas to pilot light, then the solenoid is not the problem.

This leaves 4 possible problems:
1) Bad gas control valve thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/How-to-replace-water-heater-gas-valve.pdf
2) Inadequate gas pressure. Call gas company.
3) Dirty combustion parts. Clean the burner with wire brush and water.
4) Clogged air intake on FV water heaters: Rheem FV gas water heaters have glass vial that will break if combustion is slowed by clogged air intake.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-repair-Rheem-TRD.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-gas-water-heater.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Cold water side.

Charlie

May be the gas control/thermostat, probably the safest thing to do is replace the control. Are you sure the main tube to the burner is clear of debris and the pilot tube. If they are then replacing the control should work, you can find them on the internet, write down the model no. and the serial no. and contact Rheem for a part no. or just buy it from them. Some hardware stores carry controls for different water heaters. If you cannot do this yourself, find a reliable handyman that knows plumbing. The gas control part is probably $75 and up. take care.

1-866-720-2076
Available between 7AM - 7PM Central Time
7 days a week

A leaking water heater cannot be repaired, assuming it's the tank leaking and not nearby water pipe.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html

First thing is to protect your property from catastrophic tank failure where tank ruptures and water runs until it is shut off:
Tanks are under pressure when they are hot.
Close cold water shut-off located above tank.
Turn control knob to 'pilot' so pilot is lit but burner will not turn on.
Open hot side on tub for few moments to relieve tank pressure.

Now your property is safe.
You need a new water heater.
In mean time, gas water heater makes 41 gallons hot water per hour.
Shower used 5-9 gallons hot water.
Bath uses 10-15 gallons hot water.
You can turn on water heater for short stretches and limp by until you get a new heater.

Steps for installing gas water heater:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-install-gas-water-heater.html

if you check the bottom of the tank or there is water on the floor constantly..check the top of the tank most of the time the shut off valve is leaking or the hot cold connection on the top is leaking..if both these are dry then there could a crack in the tank

Problem new or old? How long you have unit? Sounds like not enough flow to keep burner on. Tankless need at least .6 gpm to keep hot water flowing or else the burner fires then shuts fires then shuts and you get a sandwich effect...hot cold hot cold. If you have new diverter valve in shower -vs- old two handle type try turning hot water ALL the way ON and see if hot stays hot. If it does stay hot then slowly adjust to cool and see if you maintain a good MIX for proper temp. If it goes cold again try this......LOWER control pad setting to a comfortable 105 degrees (ladies) 100 degrees(men) and turn shower valve all the way to HOT. See if your temp remains consistant now and if it does then problem solved. Tankless mindset...set temp on control pad and stop trying to MIX at shower valve. Thats how these things work. Thats why I install a control pad in each bath and one in the kitchen for adjusting ash temp during dishwasher on time. ditto for wash machine. You should never need to turn on cold water if your unit is set to proper temp at controller. Hope this helps

change the thermcouple