Basslink red light on but no sound

Design: The BassLink brings together a 10" subwoofer (treated paper cone, foam surround), a 10" passive radiator (to increase efficiency and limit distortion), and an extremely efficient, specially designed 200-watt Class D amplifier that work as an integrated system. Special circuitry monitors voice coil position to maintain linearity at high power levels, so you hear loud, clear bass.

Enclosure Type and Materials: The enclosure is made of an acoustically inert polymer which is rigid enough to resist flexing and dampens any resonance.

Servo-Control: The servo-control system continually monitors the performance of the speaker and ensures that the amplifier delivers exactly the right amount of power.

Class D Amplifier: This unit has a built-in 200 watt Class D amplifier which is highly efficient and designed specifically for use with the subwoofer and passive radiator combination.

Auto Turn-On Feature: When the speaker level inputs are used, the system will automatically turn on and off with the radio. Note: The auto turn-on feature does not operate when the preamp level inputs are used, unless the remote turn-on lead is connected.

Low-Pass Crossover: The low-pass crossover frequency can be varied from 50Hz to 120Hz for a seamless transition between the output of this unit and that of the other speakers in the vehicle. The crossover has a slope of 12dB per octave.

Bass Boost: The amplifier includes a continuously adjustable bass boost from -6 to +3dB centered at 40Hz.

Phase Switch: Allows you to select normal or reverse for best bass.

Mounting: You will be able to put BassLink in a variety of in-vehicle locations, thanks to its compact size and mounting feet that enable the rigid polymer box to be mounted vertically or horizontally.

Vertical Mounting Dimensions:
Width: 14.625"
Height: 13.375" (including feet)
Depth: 8.675" (10.076" including feet)
Horizontal Mounting Dimensions:
Width: 14.625"
Height: 9.5" (including feet)
Depth: 12.75" (15.1875" including feet)

BassLink LC Remote Level Control

Overview: The BassLink LC allows you to adjust the volume of BassLink powered subwoofer.

Installation: The BassLink LC may be mounted under the dash or may be dismantled and mounted inside the dash for a factory appearance.

Under-dash Mounting: Select a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control while driving. The BassLink LC has mounting "ears" to use as a template for drilling pilot holes. Attach screws through the "ears" to secure the BassLink LC to the mounting surface.
In-dash Mounting: Disassemble the BassLink LC by removing the Phillips-head screws on the front, rear, and top panels. Remove the bottom and side panels and disengage the RJ11 connector from the back panel. Choose a mounting location that allows easy, safe access to the control, and provides 1-3/4" clearance behind the mounting surface. Drill a 9/32" hole in the mounting surface. Feed the BassLink LC's potentiometer (with the knob removed) through the hold and use the nut provided to hold the control in place.
Connecting to BassLink: Route the cable behind the dash or other interior panels and under the carpet. Do not route the cable outside the vehicle. Connect the cable on both ends.

Inputs and Controls

Inputs:

Universal Interface: Front and rear, left and right Universal interface speaker-level inputs (for use with the supplied speaker-level input wiring harnesses)
Line Level RCA Inputs: Front and rear, left and right female preamp level inputs
+BATT (+12V): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
REM (remote turn-on): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
GND (ground): Gold-plated screw terminal, 0.350" wide
Fuse: There is an installed 20 Amp fuse
Remote Gain Control: Phone type jack for included remote gain control

Controls:

Gain Control: Rotary control that sets gain (variable from 250mV to 4V)
Crossover Control: Rotary control that sets the low-pass crossover point (variable from 50 to 120Hz)
Bass Boost Control: Rotary control that sets bass boost level (variable from -6 to +3dB, centered at 40Hz)
Phase Switch: Selects normal or reverse phase (0 or 180 degrees)
Power LED: The power LED glows red when the BassLink is on
Servo LED: The Servo LED glows green when the servo circuit has determined that the woofer has reached maximum excursion and power to the woofer has been modified to provide maximum performance. The LED should light momentarily during high-level bass transients. Note: Avoid adjustments that cause the LED to remain lit for an extended period of time


Thanks

Hello, check the +15v and -15v on the Switching Power Supply Control board. If one or both are missing, it is probably Q117 for +15v and Q118 for -15v. If one is missing the limit comparator will rail to one side and cause the auto variable volume control to trip the servo protection.

Hi,

One or more of the DC to DC outputs might be bad. Check the
/- 54v on the main PCB and the /-15v on the switching controller PCB.
Losing one side of the 15v will cause the limit comparator to rail and force the servo protection, even with no input signal.

Hello jmw3031,

The Basslink should have both a red power LED and a green servo LED. The red LED should be on when power is applied. The green servo LED should only come on during high-level bass transients. Turn the gain down slightly if it stays on for extended periods.

Hope this helps.

or it could be your RCA's or the outputs on the deck...the go out quite often

For some reason you are not getting constant power to the system. What gauge power/ground are you running? Describe your system to me and we'll see what I can do to help.

check all your power fuses and insure you havec power where it is supose to be. maybe you have blown a fuse.

you must have lost power to your servo check all fuses and insure you have voltage up to the fuse

check the power cables on the amp and the inputs.isome time when ground cable disconnect the lioghts will light up any way. depending on the way ur vehicle is ground ed .toyota chssis r usually posite un like the norm which is neg.rating please

defect age,short worn its time through had the same thing happen to mine,A SUGGESTION PUT A 25 AMP FUSE,AND PULL IN AND OUT THE GAIN TUG IT,IT SOMETIMES STICKS AND SHORTS YOUR UNIT OUT,GOOD LUCK