What does it mean when u push the power button and the words ''chk spkr'' flashes on the display and still wont turn on??

Westinghouse outdoor timer instruction manual
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/190259/Westinghouse-Outdoor-Timer.html

Westinghouse Outdoor Timer User Manual

The IM (instrument module) is capable of displaying DTC's (diagnostic trouble codes).
Speedometer Self Diagnostics: The speedometer is capable of displaying and clearing speedometer, tachometer, TSM/TSSM and ICM/ECM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC).

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button. Background lighting sould illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate. The word "diag" should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu "PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module. The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check. To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time. (from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)
P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release. If there are any DTC's the code will be displayed or the word "none" will appear if there are no DTC's. Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC's are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button. Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up. Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch. Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC's again by repeating steps 1 to 9. If the code is current it will reappear.

9 - Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 - Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

It's telling you it thinks tghere's a short on the speaker outputs. With NO speakers, that is bad.

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced hands-on tech.

Hello.

From FixYa Support: The "ERR" message reportedly means a memory error.

Please NOTE: This solution will wipe out the memory.

Press the STOP and DISP/MENU buttons at the same time for about 2 seconds, and then the display should show "FOR". It will supposedly erase the whole memory, but will at least make the device usable again.

Hope this helps.

It means to check your speaker connections for shorts.

"CHK SPKR" Check Speakers. Remove all speaker wires and turn on receiver. If it still says check speakers, you have an amp that needs output transistors or possibly just soldering of an emitter resistor but thats rare.

Your phone system time may be off in general. Have you checked that?

You can usually reset the phone time display form the main console
Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} From Front Desk Phone

1. Push Spkr button
2. Enter #652
3. Enter Correct time in HHMMSS
4. Push Redial button
5. Push Spkr button

That message means that you have a bad speaker or you have a bad amplifier IC most of the time. The amp circuit could have some other problem, but more times than not it is the amp IC.

How to check if it is the speakers or the amp circuit:

Unplug the speakers and turn it on. if you do not get the error message you have a bad speaker. If you do get the error message you have an internal amp problem. Then start plugging in speakers one at a time. If the unit turns on and stays on for a few minutes, turn it off and then plug in one more speaker. Keep doing this unit the unit gets the error message and when it gets that message you know that the last speaker you plugged in is the bad one.

Now the bad news

RCA no longer sells parts for their audio equipment. When the supply they have on hand right now is gone, thats it, no more RCA parts.

Now the good news.

The amp IC they use is a generic type that you may be able to get from another source.

But that is only good news if the amp IC is bad. It is the likely suspect, but without troubleshooting it on a test bench with the proper equipment, that can only be a good guess.

If you have found this help to you a good rating would be really appreciated.

Your problem is the output IC's The case where you say the speakers buzz tells you theres a short in the audio outputs. If your unit didnt shut off, the speakers would fry and the unit would also smoke. These are solid state devices and are soldered in, and are not concidered user serviceable parts, unless you know how to solder and trouble shoot Stereo systems. This is a job for the pro if you want it fixed. Good Luck