Testing household outlets with 3 light tester

Move wires to different breaker with same amp rating?
Try different tester?

Test wiring box-by-box to locate the reversed connection.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#loose-wire
Check each box for Hot and neutral:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Basic-house-wiring.html#test

Gene

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Jan 2013
1) Move wire to another same-size circuit breaker to eliminate bad circuit breaker as suspect.
Do NOT increase size of breaker or it will cause fire.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Put hand on each appliance and outlet to see which ones are warm. Outlet should never be warm or hot. Replace outlet. Inspect wires for loose and burned connections.

3) If the breaker is good, then add up total watts being used by checking watt rating on each device. 100 watt light bulb is 100 watts. Big screen TV has a label that shows 300 to 500 watts. Computer has label. Space heater has label showing 1500 watts. Iron has a watt rating label. Take total watts and divide by 110Volts and this will give amp load. Total watts used = 2000 and then divide 2000 by 110 volts = 18.8 amps
Compare amp load with circuit breaker.
20 amp circuit breaker has 80% safe maximum, or 16 amps.
If amp load is 18.8 amps, then 20 amp breaker is starting to get hot, and weak breaker will start tripping.
If amp load is 18.8 amps, and breaker is 15 amps, then you are overloaded and breaker is feeling the heat, and tripping because of heat.
Solution is to reduce amp load.

4) If you have short circuit, that can also trip breaker.
Unplug everything and then plug things back in slowly to see which plug or appliance is causing the problem.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Copy following links for correct wiring illustrations:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Outlet-polarity-200.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Wire-2-outlets.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

2) Add a comment dec 2012, for more help

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1) Move wire to another same-size breaker.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-circuit-breaker.html

2) Understand electric service:
http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html

3) Troubleshoot.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Troubleshoot-household-electricity.html

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

If there is an input power fuse for your 120 volts a.c. I would remove it and check it. Make sure the cap seats correctly. If it is a new house to you please verify there is power coming out of the exact outlet you are using. Use a lamp or appliance you know works. If your "test" appliance works you may have bad amp or damaged in moving. If it, "tester"does not work you are not getting power to that outlet - check for a wall switch you may have overlooked or fuses/circuit breakers.

Since your unit is an AC and Gas unit, you need to find out if it works on gas in order to make a good diagnosis.

But from your description, it sounds like your DC power is not at the unit.

http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/dom_techdata/26121_2852SM.PDF

replace the receptacle, its tripping due to wear . if the unit works fine in another receptacle , its not the unit

Electricians don't guess, they test.

Remove device.
Separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary 2-prong tester.
Tape wood sticks to tester leads to keep hands away from power.
Turn on power.

Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester will light up on Hot wire. This wire connects to dark-colored screw.
Hot is identified.
Now test Hot wire to each other wire in box, including white wires in back of box (exclude bare ground wire)
Tester will light up on Neutral wire. Neutral wire connects to silver screw. This will complete circuit to receptacle part of device.

The last wire goes to Load (light). This wire connects to brass-colored screw, and will complete circuit to light..

You can also take advantage of fixya phone support.
Fixya expert will walk you through the steps shown above for a price.

While there is a practical limit for the number of outlets on a 15 or 20 amp general purpose lighting circuit in a _residence_, the National Electric Code (NEC) does not impose a # of outlets per circuit limit (residential ONLY).
However, some electrician's design general purpose lighting circuits in a residence using a point system. An outlet is 2 points and a light is 1 point. So, for a twenty amp circuit, (10 outlets x 2 points) = 20. Or, (5 outlets x 2 points) + (10 lights x 1 point) = 10 + 10 = 20. Or (8 outlets x 2 points) + (4 lights x 1 point) = 16 + 4 = 20. However you want to mix it up.

Now, if this is for a Commercial building, the the NEC allows no more than 180 VA (Volt Amps) per outlet. 180 VA / 120 Volts = 1.5 Amps.
20 amps / 1.5 Amps = 13.3 outlets. Drop the .3 and one determines that 13 outlets are allowed on a Commercial 20 amp circuit.

Also, if the 20 amp circuit is considered a continuous circuit (ON for more than 3 hours a day), then it can only be loaded to 80%. 80% of 20 amps = 16 amps.

means hot on neutral.
meaning the black wire or the aluminum screw i shot.