Microwave blows fuse

Sounds like a bad switch should have three primary, secondary, and monitor switch after 5 years change all 3 they are not the same primary and secondary are NO ( normally open ) and the monitor NC ( normally closed ) unit will not come on the fuse on the filter board is blow this usually shorts out the filter board change the switches first and replace fuse may not have to replace filter board hopes this helps.

Go to this link for the complete detail about your microwave and also for the diagram and how to replace the fuse..
https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/0/52015b2c875fae4d85256a8c0062547e/$FILE/4322167.pdf

Hope that helps..........

Possibly the fuse / breaker is tripped, usually all outlets in one room share same breaker. Check breakers (or fuses) or try outlet in differnt room. If the outlet has power, (plugin a lamp to check) and the microwave still does not work, take it back to store for replacement or refund.

Hello

Check the Power Cord

Verify that the power cord is properly connected the outlet; the plug might have been removed to make way for another appliance. Do not connect the microwave to an outlet via an extension cord or plug adapter; the oven must be directly connected to an outlet.
Switch the Outlet on

Turn the outlet on, if possible, using the switch on the wall behind the counter or on the plug itself. Some microwaves have a separate power switch that must be in the correct position before you can begin cooking.
Reset the Oven

Unplug the oven, wait a few seconds and reconnect the power. A power surge could have temporarily rendered the oven inoperable. The oven should start up as normal when you connect the plug to the outlet.
Check the Fuses and Breakers

See that the fuse or breaker protecting the oven's circuit is still active. Replace the fuse if it has blown, or reset the breaker to restore power to the oven. Stop using the microwave if it repeatedly blows fuses or trips breakers.

In that case the outlet your using is pushing out too much electricity. Try calling your local electric company for help or a professional electric repair man.

you might have to reset your your power settings on the micro.

We have critical safety & disassembly info (including a how-to video) at our site, linked here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

A microwave can be dead for many reasons.

It may be the fuse, which is usually located on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.

Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.

When checking thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.

If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.

Please reply back here if you still need help.

We're happy to help you and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

AHD_NZ

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

Guest

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

Can someone tell me where i can find fuse for microwave convection/grill oven 5kv 700ma There is a other no on the fuse TUV5m41GF