WINDOWS, WINDSHELD WIPERS WILL NOT WORK, KEEP BLOWING THE FUSE AS SOON AS I PUT IT IN, INTERIOUR LIGHT ALSO DO NOT WORK.
I would check for traces of water that have leaked into the inside fuse panel. You can sometime see rust marks on the metal parts of the dash around the fuse panel. There is a module on the back of the fuse panel and wire connectors that you can remove and inspect for water. If you find water in the fuse panel...the module and fuse will need to be replaced. If no water is found...the circuit that keeps blowing the fuse will need to be traced for a short. I could not find any common circuits for the wipers,power windows or lights.
SOURCE: Blows fuses when parking lights are turned on. Headlights work fine even running lights.
If it only happens when you turn the switchto the parking lights then it is most likely the swich that is the problem. Light swich failure appears to be a common fault with fords
SOURCE: 1996 ford f150 blows the 10amp fuse going to the speed odometer.
I'm glad you found what was causing the fuse to blow. A wiring diagram is almost a must when troubleshooting electrical. you may be able to find that sensor at a pick-a-part or wrecking yard. Just be extreamly careful, it is very easy to set off the air bag. Make sure that all power is off before working around that area.
SOURCE: 1996 ford explorer windows, locks and seat fuse keeps blowing
Disconnect as many of the door switch wiring plugs, and wiring plugs for the seats that you can. Then, drop in a fuse. If it blows, you probably have a wiring issue, not a switch issue. If it doesn't blow immediately, reconnect the doors, and seats one at a time till the fuse does blow. Once it does, you've isolated your problem to a smaller area, and can replace / rewire that component.
If you've disconnected everything, and the fuse still blows, you probably have a wiring issue that will need to be traced. You will need a multimeter that can read ohms. You'll need to isolate different parts of the circuit (probably by unplugging and or cutting a wire in that circuit unfortunately) then use the multimeter to test the ohms from that part of the circuit to NON voltage side of the fuse holder. (If you try to test ohms on a hot circuit you will likely fry your multimeter!). If the meter reads low ohms, there is your short. High ohms (infinity) means there is no circuit, and there is no short. When you hit on something of low ohms, you've isolated the problem to a smaller area, and can keep tracing that wiring back to the fuse box to find your short.
Good Luck.
SOURCE: I have a 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Fuse 15 keeps
I had the same problem on my 2001 ford 150 supercrew. My cruise control went out first, then a couple months later I could not put my truck in gear and the windows wouldn't work. Then the #15 fuse (5 amp) kept blowing. One day when I went to work the truck caught fire. The problem was the speed control module. It was under a recall. I took it to ford and since I did not take it to them for the recall they only covered the parts that was initially in the recall. I had to buy the other parts.
SOURCE: Overdrive switch blowing fuse on 2002 F150 Ford
Remove the shroud around the steering column and shifter and look closly at the wires coming out of the shifter at the pivot of the shifter, if its not to bad you can tapeit and reposition it and be good to go.
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