Question about Heating & Cooling

3 Answers

Remove and relocate split air conditioner

Hi, i need to remove and relocate 12000BTU split air conditioner without releasing gas (if possible) from the system without calling a contractor to regas the unit. I am very technicaly minded, i installed the system myself without any problems 1 year ago.
Tech. assistance in this matter would be highly appreciated.
Regards
Phillip

Posted by coetzee_phil on

  • ruicabanita Feb 02, 2009

    I need to remove a cheap 9000 BTU split AC unit. It's too cheap to call for a technician.
    Is there any problem if I simply turn off the valves on the external unit and disconnect the tubes, loosing some of the gas? Will the remaining refrigerant be enough to purge the air from the tubes and make the unit work properly once it is reinstalled?
    I have no special equipment such as air pumps...
    Regards.

  • coetzee_phil Nov 14, 2009

    Thank you!
    Can you pls explain why running a vacuum pump is recommended, and how is this procedure done?

    Regards
    Phillip

×

Ad

3 Answers

Anonymous

  • Level 1:

    An expert who has achieved level 1.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    New Friend:

    An expert that has 1 follower.

    Corporal:

    An expert that has over 10 points.

  • Contributor
  • 1 Answer

The simplest way of explaining this is as per the following. On your outdoor compressor unit there should be two pipes, one smaller diameter [high pressure] and a larger diameter pipe [low pressure]. Turn your A/C on inside the house and then shut off the smaller diameter pipe. Run the unit for a around 3 to 4 minutes and then check if the cooling is reducing from the unit inside the house. When you feel room temperature air [not cool] being emitted from the indoor unit shut off the larger diameter pipe and turn off unit. Isolate electrics, disconnect A/C piping and immediately seal the piping with good quality tape to prevent egress of dirt. When re-installing a quick purge of gas is usually only required to clear the lines if they were sealed properly and kept clean. Ideally running a vacuum pump is recommended but if care was taken then it may not be needed, as in many of my installations.

Posted on Nov 13, 2009

  • Anonymous Nov 20, 2009

    Hi Phillip,

    The vacuum is required to draw out any moisture and contaminates out of the copper lines. When I disconnected my last unit, I was very careful with the cleanliness of the lines and sealed them immediately. Therefore, when I re-installed the unit a short time later, a purge of gas was only required to ensure the lines were clear, and I did not need a vacuum pump.However if you have picked up a unit of unknown source or had one lying around for some time then I would recommend running a vacuum pump to ensure all moisture and contaminates are gone for at least a min of 20mins [the longer the better obviously]. Be aware that the copper piping used is a special refridgerant type ie. polished on the inside. Any work done on these pipes must be followed by deburring the areas worked on before any flaring can proceed. You cannot afford to have even the smallest contaminate such as filing of copper in your system because it could lodge in your TX valve etc. Utmost cleanliness and moisture free are keys to a fault free system. The way to run a vacuum pump on a system is to connect it to the low side [bigger pipe] of the service port on your out door unit via a set of refridgerant gauges. The service valve would have a cap that needs to be removed.The gauges must suit the unit and I have noted that my old set of gauges do not fit the newer units. A set of gauges in this exercise is good because you can monitor how much vacuum you are pulling and then check if there are any leaks in system via these gauges. Unless you have the appropriate gauges and pump, it might be best to pay the service call and get someone who has the right equipment for the final stage. If you had completed all the other work, then this part of the job should not cost too much.

×

Ad

Anonymous

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Governor:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.

    Hot-Shot:

    An expert who has answered 20 questions.

  • Expert
  • 61 Answers

If the unit has king valves you can close the liquid line and pump the refrigerant into the condensing unit. Do not pump the unit into a vacuum. Any remaining refrigerant should be properly recovered by a EPA licensed tech.
Move the unit, reconnect (taking care not to allow any moisture or contamination into the lines) and evacuate the refrigerant lines and the evaporator down till it holds 500 microns for 10-15 minutes.
The refrigerant can then be released back into the system.
Hope this helps.
Matt

Posted on Jan 09, 2009

Ad

Waqy Woo

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    New Friend:

    An expert that has 1 follower.

    Night Owl:

    An expert who has answered 10 or more questions between 12 midnight and 6am on the same day.

  • Expert
  • 79 Answers

Matt is correct! your compressor could possibly be a scroll. DO NOT RUN THIS INTO A VACUUM!

Posted on Mar 05, 2015

Testimonial: "Thanks a lot for the info, helped a lot though, better late than never. Regards Phillip"

Add Your Answer

×

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

0helpful
1answer

How can uninstal and shifting split air conditioner

This is not a DIY job. You need equipment to remove the A/C gas before dismantling the A/C system and after relocating and installing the A/C the system needs purging of air and then re-gassing.
I suggest you get an A/C installer to do this work.
1helpful
1answer

I have a 14.4 square metre office room, fitted with 12000btu split AC unit for cooling, will it be sufficient?

1tr could cover up area of 100 Sqft ( Nearly 10sqmtrs) 12,000BTU is 1Tr. Better you go with 1.5 Tr. Otherwise make any patrician work to short the area, if you can. Thanks.
0helpful
1answer

I have a split unit airconditioner 12000btu.It worked great for about almost 5months.till yesterday,when I turned on the air con,I didn't feel cold.I just felt normal wind blowing.then after 5min a...

E-4 ..........short of asor no gas
Please check amps with amps meter reading. If very less amps than specified, it's under gas leak. Even you can physically touch the discharge (small) pipe while running, if it's not warm, gas leak. Call repairman to check and arrest gas leak and then recharge gas.
Helpful?
1helpful
2answers

The best pressure of gas in a split ac in

65 psi is the ideal pressure remember its not exceede from this pressure.
and it is valid for all season
1helpful
1answer

Hi we have a ge air/cond split system which i want to move to another position i know the system does have an accumulator in the main unit i just wanted to know how to reclaim the gas back into the...

need gauges attatched to the low side (Fat pipe)at the condenser unit which is outside.Use the allan key and close off the high side(small pipe ) at the condensing unit. With the unit running watch the gauges untill needle reaches 0. Quickly close valve off on fat pipe and then switch off. You can then dissmantle and relocate unit. Note, before opening valves again, you must pull a vacume to remove moisture otherwise you will have no end of problems.
0helpful
2answers

How do i top up the gas (R22) LG gold 12000btu

If it is not freezing up freon is ok. Make sure compressor is running.If humidity in house is high It will not feel as cold as it should until air drys out some. Do not try to run just after house heats up as it may never catch up. LEAVE ON a set stat to cycle. Window units have no customer acess fittings and would need to be installed. Then you need gauges to read pressures. this is not auto refrigerant. 90% of the time the outside coil is dirty and needs washed out. fan blows back through coil so build up is on fan side you can't see. You may be able wash with hose from side you can see with a 30 degree down angle going from top to bottom side to side. careful to not bend fins Also do not spray water into fan motor. Also some times coil is too dirty to clean without taking apart.
0helpful
1answer

ROOM SIZE

Work on around 650btu per square meter.
Not finding what you are looking for?

Open Questions:

0answers

Why won't my Reddy Heater R55 run with the upper shell on? My Reddy Heater R55 will not run properly with the upper shell installed. Initially, the unit wasn't sparking, so I replaced the transformer ignition control and installed a new spark plug. That fixed the sparking issue. However, this new shutoff issue was discovered. I elected to replace the lint filter, intake filter, and output filter, as those pieces all looked pretty old. The filter end cover was cracked on the side and spitting out air, which I replaced. After the same issue continued and the unit shut off after a few minutes with the upper shell on, I replaced several other things. This included the photocell, nozzle and adapter, the adjusting screw, spring, steel ball, and the 1/8" ID air and fuel lines. After digging deeper into this, I noted the old 3/16" ID air line was leaking with a bit of soapy water, my dad's best trick for finding leaks. One thing to note, when I have the upper shell off, I have set the pressure to 3.4 PSI (per the side label), but when I put the upper shell on, the PSI drops to below 3.0 unless I hold the gauge still. When I hold it, the gauge reads 3.4 PSI. A couple of final things to note on this journey. 1) The fuel cap does not look to have a gasket but it seems to breathe properly with the hole in the center of the cap. 2) Before any issues started, I was running pump kerosene. Since then, I filled up with 10 gallons of jet fuel at a local airport and wondered if I got bad fuel from them. I plan to run through the last 7 gallons or so of jet fuel with the upper shell off and then try a couple of gallons of pump kerosene to see if that resolves the problem. Beyond all of my attempts, I am at a loss and could use some help. I've spent more on these repairs than the unit is worth but started the process in hopes of fixing the heater, as my wife's grandfather gave it to me a couple of years ago. In hindsight, I should have just bought a new unit, but here I am.

Heating & Cooling Logo

Related Topics:

40,291 views

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Heating & Cooling Experts

Paul Carew

Level 3 Expert

3717 Answers

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8221 Answers

john h

Level 3 Expert

26124 Answers

Are you a Heating and Cooling Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...