- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
This could be caused by a couple of problems. The water level sensor could be bad so that the washer thinks it's got water in it already or the timer could be bad. If the washer starts to fill after it starts agitating then the timer would be the problem.
Not sure if this was explained to u but these washers do not fill like the old top loads did... the machine uses very little water, the clothes are rolled over and over through the water as it cascades down and up through the agitator. If you look at the agitator you'll notice it does not have an elongated spindle, it's not required. Although the machine doesn't fill your clothes will be fully washed, this design was developed to conserve water...
When the cycle doesn't advance, it's probably the timer or a cold-water supply problem:
It's the timer, if your washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer never advances--or if the washer is in a spin cycle and the timer won't advance. Then you need to replace the timer.
It may be a cold-water supply problem, if the washing machine fills with water, agitates, drains, and spins, but then doesn't fill with rinse water. See There's no cold water.
First off I can tell you the water valve coils are probably cooked / burned out. With POWER OFF / unit unplugged you can remove one wire from each of the coils and check for resistance across the coils. No resistance = open coil = no fill. NO FILL = no agitate because the water level pressure switch is trying to sense the water level that never rises. If there is no water then there will be no agitation.
If you really want to see if it will agitate in it's current condition you can fill the unit with a garden hose on a low level water setting and fill it a little over half way to see if it will agitate. (You will have to remove the hose and close the lid)
If that works then the water vavle would be the culprit causing your condition. The wire wound in the coil windings of the water valve is smaller in thickness than a human hair and would easily fail if 220VAC was put across a 110V winding.
You have a problem with the motor coupling. Top-load washers use what's called a direct-drive system, meaning it does not use a belt but what's called a "motor coupling". I probably replace 5 a week because these little guys break because of 2 reasons that i've found.
1) The break mechanism is too dry and causing the basket to stop at a holt, which puts a lot of strain on the coupler.
2) They break because of over-loading. I don't think you're over-loading though because it was find for 5 straight years.
Good luck to you. The repair is kind of hard to do on your own for the first time, so I would call an authorized technician. It will run you anywhere between $90 to $120 at most.
I recently had this problem. It was found that the main drive belt broke and the washer would fill but not spin, agitate or drain. I replaced the belt and everything worked again. A defective or disconnected cover switch would also cause the same problem.