I've got a ESG366 and one of the purple LED burner indicators is completely missing. It must have fallen out (or into) the appliance.
I can order the replacement LED, but I have no idea how to disassemble the cooktop. Either removing the porcelin top, or from underneath the cooktop.
I'm quite handy with appliance repair. I was just looking for input from gurus on where to start before I jump in.
I'm not an expert, but I just had mine apart. You should take the panel off from beneath the control panel. This is a matter of removing about 6-8 screws and slipping the small piece of sheet metal out. You may then be able to find your "missing" LED, which is probably dangling inside the control panel assembly area. I believe there is simply a tab or other simply fastening clip that you slip the LED back onto; this holds the LED against the control panel. Assuming the LED is still working and still wired to the knob, it should work fine.
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I have replaced several of the indicator lights in the control knobs.
Turns out that Dacor doesn't sell exact replacement lights (actually LED modules).
What I did was to go to a local electronics supply store and purchase Blue replacement LEDs and a current limiting resistor to connect in series. Replacement LEDs can vary in brightness depending on your taste ... I chose a super bright LED which makes the control knobs noticeably brighter. The value of resistor will vary depending on the LED you choose (brighter LEDs need slightly more current and as such the resistor value will be slightly less).
Once you've opened the range from the top (remove knobs, grates and burners) then remove a few screws and the entire unit opens with a hinge in the back. Look over the LED light modules which shine just below each knob and fashion a replacement LED assembly.
Total material cost per LED unit was ~ $2-3 (LED, resistor, wire and heat-shrink tubing)
Center burner won't light: If there is a bright spark (check all ignitor points at night with the lights out and look for consistent brightness of the sparks) then it's likely that the burner slots are dirty or the air/gas mix is wrong. If you can light with a match, but the spark won't light, then go for cleaning the entire burner assembly thoroughly with a brass bristle brush (available at most automotive stores). The proper air/gas mix has to flow over the spark to ignite. Weak spark, improper air/gas or misdirected gas flow that misses the spark can all cause this issue.
RR burner lights only on low setting. Again, check the air gas mix and clean all parts. Something like a small spider web inside the air mix chamber (area between the orifice and the burner can cause this and is difficult to see. Disassemble, clean thoroughly, reassemble and test. Extra low simmer burners (two on the left side) use their own control module with electric gas valves and variable electric control switches. The burner works on low, so these are not likely the problem.
Most folks want to find a bad part, and that can happen, but stove tops get dirty and cleaning usually helps. If not, you have a clean top to work on.
The indicator lens and/or the retainer are either broken or the retainer is missing. It's best to replace these as they are not expensive. When the top is off while cleaning is an perfect time to replace the lens.
This is usually one of the switches has failed. You will need to uninstall and disassemble to acess the switches. They are easy to check and replace. Here is a link that should help http://appliancehelponline.com/infiniteswitchvideo.html You can also enter your model # for diagrams and illustrations of your specific model.
If indicator lights are all that wont work there is a "P" terminal on the surface switches (unless they are controled through a board). The P is for Pilot And 1 side usually the "P" terminal of the switch is allowing the light to recieve the power signal that the element is recieving from the switch. The other side of the pilot light(s) will all be wired together at a "common" pont.
My guess is that if you have individual piolet lights this common point is not tied in to the circut now. 1 wire off or loose and none of the lights work. However it should be simple to trace back to this point and effect repair to it.
Have SAME EXACT issue - F113 on Left burner. Indicator says HOT and not even on. Called a service company (NOT GE SERVICE). They said the Element Radiant is no good and must be replaced. Part is quoted as $323.98 !!! What a rip off from GE !
the "hot top" indicator lamp is switched by a contact on the plate cut-out. sometimes this cut-out is available as a separate part but often must fit complete plate. by plate i mean the bit that gets hot!