Question about Whirlpool RF378 Electric Kitchen Range

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No power at all

The range shut down completely. Some burners were operating properly, then quit mid-meal. The "Burner Hot" warning lights were still on as was the clock, then the whole thing went off. No clock, lights, burners, oven. The circuit breakers were OK, and power at the 240 outlet. Checked the wire block where the cord connects, and no damage or burn smells. I have had it for approx 14 months.

Posted by Alan Welch on

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Sounds like you have a wire harness problem. Turn off the electric and take off the back panel. The two wires you want to be concerned with are the red and black that are coming off the terminal block. Check for burns or breakage.

Posted on Aug 12, 2007

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Left front range top burner temerture control issues


Good Morning Friend,

I understand that you are having trouble with the left front burner on your Frigidaire range, model# FEF355. I see that the burner heats up to a glowing red hot temperature, no matter what you set the dial to. I suggest resetting your appliance, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your homes circuit breaker, for 3-5 minutes.

When power is restored, the first thing you will need to do is set the clock. You will do this by pressing the "Clock" button, then within 5 seconds press and hold the up or down arrows until the correct time of day appears.

Once you have set the time, turn on the left front burner, on the lowest setting. If the burner is still glowing red hot, I suggest contacting your local authorized technician for further assistance. They will be able to diagnose your range and determine what is causing the burner to glow red hot on all settings. Hope this is helpful.

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Gas oven heats up to proper temperature and then quits heating.


It sounds like you may have a Whirlpool gas range. If so it is more that likely the burner assembly itself. The electrode attached to the burner gets to where it will light during the preheat but then once it starts to cycle the spark module tries three times to light the burner and then shuts down. the burner assembly comes as one unit with the electrode attached.

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1 Answer

I replaced what I thought was a bad igniter.But still had no glow from new igniter. Must be something else.Where do I go from here?


Hello there: The oven bake burner and ignition components are located beneath the oven cavity. In most cases the oven bottom panel can be removed for access (check your owner's manual) but on some models the oven burner has to be accessed from below in the warming or broiler drawer area. If accessing from the top, a 'flame spreader' (flat metal plate) above the burner may also need to be removed to see the burner itself.Many ovens use a single oven burner in which case they only have a single gas valve and ignitor. The same burner is used for both bake and broil functions, the broil usually being in the drawer area below the oven. Higher-end models may have a separate bake and broil burner. On such a system there will be two ignitors, one for each burner. They may also employ a 'dual' gas valve (see illustration above) instead of using a separate valve for each burner.Some range models may have an additional broil burner located at the top of the oven cavity which may be referred to as a 'waist high' broil. If not, broiling usually takes place in the drawer area below the oven, which uses the same bake burner for the broil function. Most gas ranges currently available employ one of 3 basic gas ignition systems; pilot ignition, hot surface ignition system (which uses a 'glow bar' or 'glow coil' - aka an "ignitor") and a spark ignition system. The latter two being referred to as "electronic ignition" systems as they use electricity in one form or another to operate the oven heating system. Only the pilot ignition system has an actual "pilot" (which is a small but real "flame") which might need manual lighting.
If the surface burners of a range are a spark ignition type, the oven IS one of the possible kinds of electronic ignition systems and thus will not usually have a "pilot" which needs lighting. Be aware though that just because the surface burners might light via a spark doesn't necessarily mean the oven uses the spark type ignition system too.
There is one older style of electronic ignition system which does also use an oven pilot but it is very rare and such a system hasn't been used in oven models since the early to mid 70's. It is the 'constant pilot' *electronic ignition* system.


Making Observations
The oven burner's operation will usually need to be directly observed while in operation as the first step to troubleshooting problems.Ignition System Type Links
Ignition System Types:
  • Pilot Ignition
  • Electronic Ignition with Constant Pilot (rare)
  • Electronic Ignition with Glow Ignitor (most common)
  • Spark Ignition System

  • Is there continuity between the oven gas valve's terminals?


    Hot Surface ('Glow Bar') Ignition System (most common)
    This is the most popular system currently used for ovens and is comprised of a control mechanism (whether thermostat or electronic control), the oven ignitor and an oven gas valve.


    What happens in this style ignition system is that the thermostat or electronic control switches power to the oven ignitor and gas valve circuit which are connected in series (one after the other). As power flows through the ignitor it heats and draws current (measured in amperage). Once the oven ignitor draws a specific amount of current the oven valve opens to allow gas to flow to the oven burner where the glowing hot ignitor (glow bar) ignites it. Power must continually flow through the ignitor and oven gas valve for gas to be released into the oven burner to create a flame.

    It should usually only take in the area of 30-90 seconds for the oven ignitor to reach the proper resistance to allow the proper amperage to reach the gas valve to open it and for the ignitor to ignite the gas at the oven burner.

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    Stove top burners won't light.


    Susan, there is no pilot flame on the Spectra models of ranges. However, the possibility that the electronic ignitors have gotten soaked and are shorting out is quite likely.

    You should disconnect the power to the oven and remove the burner grates, burner caps, and the burner assembly cores to expose the ignitor posts. Check to see if there is any remaining water there and clean off and dry the ignitors and burners completely, as they might have something on them causing them to short out against the stove top, rather than spark properly, as they should.

    Once you've cleaned and replaced the stove top parts, restore power and try to light each burner, one at a time. If none of them spark or light, then you need to check to make sure you haven't tripped a breaker for the stove or a GFCI outlet that the outlet that the stove might be plugged into, somewhere in the Kitchen.

    Hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

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    Ignitor won't shut off


    The Viking manual says that an ignitor that continues to try to light even after the burner has been lit indicates improper grounding, and that an electrician should be consulted.

    Perhaps you could try to replace the ignitor, and see if that fixes the problem?

    I have a similar age, 6-burner 36" rangetop.


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    The switch probably failed. Remove power. Take off the top rear cover and inspect the switch for signs of discoloration (burned or brown areas). If looks OK then maybe the element failed.

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    Shut the breaker off! These are the exact symptoms that a tenant of ours reported for their range. I went to check the range and found that one of the power wires on the terminal block in the back of the range was burning itself up. It had actually started a small wire fire. You need to pull the range out of it's hole and unplug it. Remove the panel in the back above where the cable goes into the range. Examine the power wires and terminal block carefully, because I bet you'll find one of the wires is burning up and needs to be repaired. Please write back and let know what you find.

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