Hi all, We've had the 2001 Tribute V6 in to two different mechanics a number of times now for this issue but don't seem to have a resolution - wondering if anyone has run across it before. A bit of googling and searching hasn't yielded any results either. The car almost always takes a long time to start. Put key in ignition, crank engine for 5-7 seconds, car then fires and engine runs fine. Time it on your stopwatch... that's a long crank time! The problem has been happening for about 2 years now and has only ever seen the car not start on a single occasion. The fix was to leave it for a while and try again in half hours time. We've had the fuel filter replaced, fuel pump replaced, OBD2 output read, air filter replaced fuel lines flushed, all to no avail.Are there any other thoughts from the brains trust? Even the mechanics we've been using are stumped!Thanks for all your help
Sounds like a problem with the ignitionkey comuting with body control module verifying that it is the right key for the car. if you have another key and see if it does the same. reprogramming of keys may help. Prados have been known to have a similar prob.
SOURCE: cranks but won't start fuel pump not coming on
put a small amount of fuel in the intake near the throttle plate then crank and see if it fires, if it does then it's a fuel problem, if it does not fire then pull a plug wire and put a philips head screw driver into the plug wire hold it 1/4 inch away from a good ground then have someone crank it over, you should see spark and it should be blue, if not then you have a ignition problem a bad coil or cam sensor but need to know what you found out on the two tests I told you first to give you a direction to go.
SOURCE: 1985 12A Mazda Rx-7 Starting Problems
The RX is a cold blooded beast, and needs to be choked even if it's 90 degrees out. My 85 Rx7 has had similar problems. on one occasion due to power dropping off I had to clean up and replace the positive cable to the starter and fusable link box. Right now it is having an odd problem if I pull out the choke before engaging the starter that the power dies, so I am waiting till the starter is running before pulling out the choke.
Sometimes if the car does not start right away the rotarys tend to foul the plugs. I keep a spare set available and swap them out. Another problem with a rotary that sits a long period is that apex seals will stick in place. Sometimes you can pour atf or brake fluid through the carb into the engine with plugs removed. Spin the engine to spread the fluid well and let it sit for a hour or so. Then spin the engine till most of the fluid is clear. Put plugs back in and start, sometimes ether will help fire it up quicker.
SOURCE: 96 mazda mpv minivan 165k mi. Ran fine until one
I was browsing unsolved problems. If you still have the problem, I'll try to help you. But it's going to be awhile trying to communicate back and forth. First...Check the engine for spark. Take off a plug wire and stick a screw driver in the wire end and place the metal part of the screw driver next to something on the van that's metal. Have someone crank it over for just a second or two and see if a small spark jumps from the screw driver to the metal part. I'll check back for your answer.
SOURCE: I have a 2003 Mazda MPV , the problem only happen
I ahve same issue with my 2004 MPV. I replaced the plugs, coils etc. No help.
did you ever get it fixed?
SOURCE: 2004 Mazda Tribute V6 will not stay running
Try this, it's cheap, easy and it won't take long...and it will probably help...
I
have a 2001 Tribute and ithas had this problem since about 1 year after
buying it new. My motherin law also has one and it has the exact same
problem. You can crankthe carcold
(sometime even warm) and it will die unless you keep the gas pedal
pressed in. I suspect that this is a widespread problem with
theTribute. Forget about the Mazda dealer helping. There is a very
simpleand cheap solution:
1. Locate the idle air controlvalve...looking at your engine from the front of the car,
the valve islocated on top of the air intake towards the far right
corner of theengine (next to the plastic cover on top of the engine).
The valve ismetal, looks like a small metal cylinder is attached to it,
and isbolted on with two bolts. It also has wires plugged into it. You
can goto google images and type "Mazda tribute idle air control valve" to see what it looks like.
2. With engine off, unplug the wires from the valve.
3. Remove the two bolts and take valve off of air intake.
4.Inside
the metal part you removed, you will see two chambers with ashaft going
through them that can extend back and forth. The shaft hasa spring on
it, and a plug that can open or plug a hole between the twocavities.
This is the idle control valve.
5. Take a flat headscrew driver
and pry the shaft back and forth a few times to free itup. There will
probably be some dirt/grime on the shaft.
6. Takecarburetor
cleaner and spray it in the valve cavities. Allow it to soakfor a
minute and drain it out. Repeat if needed to clean it out.
7. Blow in it to dry it out.
8. Take WD40 and spray it in the cavities. Drain excess out
.
9. Take the screwdriver and work the shaft back and forth a few more times. The shaft should move freely.
10. Bolt the valve back onto the engine air intake and plug the wires back up to it.
Startthe
engine. If this was the problem, and the engine was stalling justbefore
doing this procedure, then it should start right up and idlefine. If it
was stalling sporadically when started, it should not anymore. I have
to do this procedure with my car every 6 - 12 months. Whenthis problem
first occurred with my car it took it to the dealerseveral times. Of
course it would not do it at the dealer, and theyclaimed ignorance as
to the cause. I suspect this is a cash cow forMazda.
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