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you will need to replace both draws control boards, with the dd603 control boards they have a small touch button panel on the top of the board which they didn't put a protective layer or plastic over and basically what happens is steam gets on the copper tracking and corrodes it hence the fact it doesn't work anymore, all new control boards even the replacement for yours comes with a plastic strip over the board. hope this helped
I am assuming you have a Fisher Paykel or similar double drawer dishwasher. Based on your symptoms it is very likely there is dirt or some blockage in the drain sump which needs to be cleared. If you have followed the normal procedure of cleaning filters etc, and there is no difference then you will have to take a thin rigid metal wire and run it through the channel between the rotor cavity and the drain sump. There could be a seed or a bone chip sitting there. I am assuming the pump rotor runs normal and you can hear water flow through the drain hose into outlet drain. Please provide make and model number of dishwasher for help with better diagnostic.
If this is a double drawer dishwasher and bottom drawing is functional but top drawer won't open means the controller on top drawer is faulty or power circuit is locked. If turning the mains power off and back on makes no difference then controller could be the problem. One way to test is to take the controller from bottom drawer and replace that in the top drawer. This requires a lot of patience and experience with electronic stuff. If you are not brave enough to test then call the technician. The controller is about $200 to buy. Make sure the mains power socket is taken out before working on the dishwasher internals.
Not sure which model you have but if top drawer in double drawer has no power then it could mean a few things - either the thermal cutoff sensor has blown or the power board at the base of the dishwasher (under bottom drawer has blown). If you are not getting an F2 error on bottom drawer then more likely it is the thermal sensor. Not an easy job to fix as the whole heater assembly has to be replaced. The cutoff is integrated with the heater. The power board is easy to replace provided you have good handyman skills. ALWAYS TAKE OUT MAINS CABLE before working inside the dishwasher.
Flood switch is at the very bottom underneath the bottom draw in the base floor.Unplug cord.Open bottom draw all the way & squeeze a towel or sponge under the draw & soak up the water..The washer should work now..Why did it flood in first place?
Check that dishes are not stacked higher than top edge of the draw otherwise it can't seal.this can happen when children are asked to stack the dishwasher.Another cause is some models the seal is an inflatable tube that seals the top edge of the draws,it gets cut or sliced buy a plate that was stacked to high when you closed the draw.there should be no clunk of dished hitting when the draw is closed.
The controllers get very brittle & can break away from their housing, the reason it's rapidly beaping is because it thinks the door is open. PLEASE TURN IT OFF FIRST AT THE POWER POINT. Take the front draw panel off by pulling the plugs situated on the front behind the draws, the controller is at the top right hand side if it is loose then thats the problem, double sided tape will work but lots of it or try a wedge type arrangement. I know this is an old post but people refer to these for solutions much later.
I'm not really sure. With the double drawer configuration, I know the top drawer is larger than the bottom drawer. If I had to take a guess, I would say the single drawer might fit in the top of the double drawer.