I have the carrier infiniti system. When my thermostat reaches the set temperature it doesn't always shut off. I shut off the main control to let it reset. It works for a while and then it starts

There are some ideas here including checking the batteries in the thermostat. The first thing to try is a full power reset. Turn off the power at the breaker to everything. Wait 30 minutes and power it back one. Then wait 10 minutes for the self test to complete.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Carrier+infinity+system+doesn%27t+turn+on

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The Honeywell RTH2300 doesn't need a C-wire. See the documentation in the Installation & Setup section on the support page: https://www.honeywellhome.com/us/en/support/air/thermostats/programmable-thermostats/5-2-day-programmable-thermostat-w-change-reminder-rth2300b1038-e1/ . If your old thermostat had a C-wire, check the system board at the furnace. Make sure that the G-wire (usually green) at the thermostat is also connected to the system board's G-wire connection.

First check the obvious: what is the current position of the fan switch? It should be on auto. (That's the switch on the right.)

Is the temperature that the thermostat is reading match the real temperature in the room? Check with a thermometer. If the area near the thermostat is still above (cooling) or below (heating) the set temperature, the room circulation could be a factor. I know my home's thermostat keeps the A/C running for a while after a thermometer on the other side of the living room reaches the desired temperature in the evening when parts of the house are closed off.

If the thermostat temperature reading is correct, the signal may not be reaching the system board. You can check that all of the individual wires between the thermostat and the system control board are undamaged. I've seen those thin wires break when you take them off one thermostat and connect them to another.

Another possibility is that a relay isn't working. Contact Honeywell if the temperature sensor isn't giving the correct reading. Contact a heating and cooling repair person if the problem is with a relay or the system board.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells

Check for smell of gas first, call gas company if leak detected. May be a loose thermostat wire, dirty main control board, dirty/ lint filled gas tubes, mine had both. Cracked or dirty ceramic igniter (This is a BIGGIE!) or dirty flame sensor. Dirty fan sensor, or flame over sensor, and or burner safety sensors. Shut off power for 10 minutes, follow owner's manual to restart, wall thermostat might usually get set to lowest temp setting, then power turned on, then set thermostat to desired temperature?

THERMOSTAT CONTROL OPERATION
FOR IR20LPT / IR30LPT: The thermostatic control used
simply turns on and off the burner.
FOR BF20LPT / BF30LPT: The thermostatic control
used modulates the flame size as the temperature gets
closer to set point, then it turns off the burner upon
reaching temperature.
The burner will cycle back on when room temperature
drops below the set temperature. The control knob can
be set to any heat level between 1 and 5. Selecting the
HI setting will cause the burner to remain on.
Note: The thermostat sensing bulb measures the
temperature of air near the heater cabinet. This
may not always agree with room temperature
(depending on housing construction, insulation
location, room size, open air temperature, etc.).
Frequent use of your heater will let you determine
your own comfort levels.
The LED temperature indicator measures approximate
room temperature around the heater.
Note: The LED temperature indicator DOES NOToperate with or control the thermostat setting of the
heater.
IF YOUR UNIT IS NOT TURNING OFF IN POSITION 1 BUT THE TEMPERATURE AROUND IT IS HIGH THAN THERMOSTAT IS STUCK AND YOU HAVE TO CHANGE IT OR VISIT SERVICE.
1-5 knob has no info what is the parameters of temperature sorry!

test the push button for open and faulty .However see this causes too.

Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.


Heating Element

Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.


Cycling thermostat

Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.

Hi Beverly Johnson...

Your problem is possibly a Clogged Vent
If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.
Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:
The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.
When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)
The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.
This cycle continues until the clothes are dry.
But...if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.
Heating Element
Your dryer's heating element may be partially burned out. If it is, your dryer still heats, but at such a low temperature that it takes three or four times as long to dry the clothes. If the element is partially burned out, replace the heating element. You can check for an ohm reading but will need to refer to the service manual for proper reading. This sometimes on the tech sheet located somewhere on the dryer. Usually between 9-13 ohms.
Cycling thermostat
Although this isn't a common problem, one of the thermostats that controls the temperature in your dryer may break and cause the dryer to heat poorly. If so, you need to replace it. The thermostat is usually a small, round, black device mounted to an oblong steel plate. The plate is mounted to the internal ductwork . This thermostat usually has four wires going to it. Check the 2 terminals that are opposite each other and are the closer together of the 2. These 2 terminals should have continuity. If not replace the thermostat.

The cooling light not coming on, on the ac unit

Hi there.
Your thermostat may be bad, it does not cut-off on temperature setting that's why temperature continues to rise tripping the hi limit switch.Try replacing the thermostat.
Visit http://www.pitco.com for parts inquiries and owner's manual download.
Regards.

I would start by installing a new thermostat because it sounds to me like it's either the thermostat or the control board and the t-stat is the less expensive of the two. I hope this helps you and thanks.

if you have a mercury thermostat and it is not leveled properly it will turn the temperatyure on and off by a couple of degrees
some thermostats have the capability of running the unit longer than the set temperature
i would recommend calling a local heating and air conditioning contractor and get the unit cleaned and bring up the issue then