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Anonymous Posted on Nov 11, 2012

Bosch dishwasher model shx46a02uc/36 will not stop running but will work on rinse & hold but on no other.

5 Related Answers

dumbgames

  • 109 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 15, 2007

SOURCE: Bosch SHU430UC/06

ok first of all there is a drain pump and wash motor pump. which one is running?Then tell me what kind of buttons u have.Are the touch buttons or plastic buttons that move

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Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on May 09, 2009

SOURCE: Diswasher Pump won't stop running

Introduction: This may work for your problem, but only if you're finding that you cannot get further water to flow into your machine. If your machine fills, OK, then this ISN'T a solution to your problem.

I have a Bosch SHV. My sink drain backed up, and the water accumulating in the sink then migrated to the dishwasher, through the drain pipe, causing the dishwasher to fill up and, it turned out, overflow a little. When I turned on the dishwasher, the water drained, but no new, clean water came through the hot water pipe. The drain just kept running, but nothing else happened.

Here's what happened. Under the main chamber of the dishwasher, by three inches or more, is a white plastic tray. It sits almost at the floor, and it may not be obvious that it's a tray capable of holding water. The overflow water spilled into that tray, which in turn caused a float in the far left side of the tray to lift (the way a toilet float lifts when the water fills in a toilet tank) and shut off the water intake valve (like the toilet float shuts off the toilet water flow). So long as that valve is closed, your machine will not run.

STOP: disconnect power supply at this point for safety.

To see the white plastic tray and thereby fix the problem, you'll need to take off the BLACK TOE-KICK (attached on my unit by two star-head screws at its bottom) and, possibly , the OUTER PANEL OF THE DISHWASHER DOOR (in my case, a custom wood panel (attached by a few screws through the inner side of the door, two screws that are accessed by popping off little--smaller than a dime size--covers on the sides of the doors, and then the door panel lifts up and out). (I took the outer panel off, but I can't remember if I would have had to reach into the white tray without doing so.)

Once you do that, you can see the white plastic tray. It doesn't come out--at least not without removing the entire machine--so try this. You can take your fingers and feel over and into the tray. You'll probably feel the water--I did. Look at the far left of the tray with a flashlight. Back there you'll see a flat, round, 3-inch diameter piece of white plastic sitting at the bottom of the tray. To its center is a generally U-shaped lever looking device, which, at its far left end, is connected to a red stick pointing up into the machine. When water goes into the tray, the float rises, causing the U-shaped lever to rise, causing the red stick to raise, which (though I couldn't see it) causes an electrical signal to run to, and shut, the valve for your water intake.

I took paper towels, and then a narrowly cut sponge, to sop up the water in the tray. I then took my shop vac and, using it as a blower, blew what little water was left right out. You might be able to use a hair dryer, but first sop out what you can or it'll take forever. Once you've done that, put everything back together and plug your dishwasher back in. My buttons are at the top panel. To reset, hold down the two buttons marked for clear drain for three seconds and release. You should be able to start up then. It took 15 seconds before the water started to run, but it did and the machine works fine again.

Interesting note: The valve that stopped the water from flowing in automatically opened once I got the water out of the tray. You don't need to reset the valve.

Good luck.

Montpelier Man

Gabe Gilsrud

  • 98 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 27, 2009

SOURCE: Bosch SHX33A runs continuously. Never finishes cycle.

I have a guide here to walk you through the process of clearing the drain system. You most likely have a clog somewhere and the dishwasher can't proceed because it would cause it to flood.

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on May 25, 2010

SOURCE: Bosch dishwasher timer sticking

I have been told to replace the timer which I am looking to do the same to my machine!

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0helpful
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How to operate correct buttons on shx46a02uc/14

Here is the manual: http://wwashing.com/2013/10/06/bosch-ecel-washing-machine-instructions/
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My Bosch SHE46C05UC/36 Dishwasher did not shut off over night. Pump seems to continue to run. I suspect that switch has gone but I really am just guessing

It is just a guess on my part, but I would say it is in your timer circuit. But before you start tearing it apart, IF there is a rinse and hold button, make sure it wasn't pushed by accident.
Jun 06, 2011 • Dishwashers
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I cannot figure out how to advance a cycle without having to go through the entire cycle. For example, I had a drain problem with my sink and the plumber put the rinse and hold cycle on for about 10...

Hello,

Welcome to FixYa.

Your post doesn`t specify a model number, however on most Bosch dishwashers in order to change from "rinse & hold" to "regular" ( or any cycle ) simply turn the unit "on" and once the machine begins push the regular button twice.

Or the button applicable to the cycle you want.

That should change the display to look like this...

24982a0.jpg
If this doesn`t work, try it for "econo" or any alternative and let me know how it goes.

Good luck.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)
1helpful
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Fon the dishwasher

Hi, welcome to Fixya.

Based on the info you've provided, the dishwasher is indicating a error during the "fill" stage, hence the "F" being displayed on the Bosch machines.

Here's how to perform a test or diagnostic...

Make sure the power button is in the off position ( open & closing of the door will activate the "auto shut off" ).

Once certain it is "off" press and hold both the regular button and rinse & hold button, then turn the unit "on" while continuing to depress those 2 buttons. Initially, control module version # will display ( i.e. "20" = version "0" without jumper...not important for this ).

When the buttons are now released, the lights above them will flash. To start testing, press both the "regular wash" and "rinse & hold" a second time.

Let the test follow through, ( grab a coffee and observe, this will take a while )

When testing has ended, the display will show an error using codes as follows...
"0" = no error.
"1" = aqua sensor fault.
"2" = heating fault.
"4" = filling fault. and finally.
"8" = NTC ( temperature sensor ) fault.

The "F" code will not appear in test mode, only during wash. If you have a failed level switch for instance the test will display "4" and will continually fill and drain and test won't complete until you press the "on/off" button.

If the test complete's without and error or won't fill, replace the water valve. Original part Part # 425458 at "searspartsdirect.com", "apwagner.com" or #1105846 at "repairclinic.com" ( they use there own numbers ) or you can check locally by your model number & serial number.

Let me know if I can assist you further. Hope you found this helpful and if so please allow for a positive rating.

Thank you for choosing "fixya" and good luck.

macmarkus :)
0helpful
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Year old Bosch SHU33A0UC won't start. Lights on

Light's on mean you have power.

Initiate the self test program by doing the following -

To start test program, press and hold both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD program buttons, then turn unit on
by pressing ON/OFF button. When program buttons are released, lights above them will flash. To end test program, press
ON/OFF button.
To check program indicator lights (POWER SCRUB PLUS, REGULAR WASH and RINSE & HOLD), press and hold each
program button. When REGULAR WASH program button is pressed, CLEAN light also comes on.
To start testing, press both POWER SCRUB PLUS and RINSE & HOLD buttons a second time. When testing has ended
and a fault was detected, the following indicator lights will be lit:
POWER SCRUB PLUS = Heater fault
REGULAR WASH = Water filling fault (over or under filling)
RINSE & HOLD = NTC (temperature sensor) fault – note circulation motor stops shortly after it started
during an NTC fault
To check for heater, high limit or flow switch problems, start testing until heating starts. Using a meter with a current coil,
measure current going into dishwasher. If current is ~ 11 A, then heater, high limit and flow switch are OK. If current stays
at ~ 1.5-2 A, then heater, high limit or flow switch are faulty.
If water level switch (f1) has failed (opened), REGULAR WASH light will come on and unit will continually fill and drain
where testing won't be completed. If flow switch (e5) has failed (opened), water won't heat (to 150ºF) and water won’t stop
circulating. If NTC probe (f2/f4) has failed (opened), RINSE & HOLD light will come on immediately and testing will end
shortly after water has started circulating.
If more than one fault occurs, more than one light will be lit.

Let me know what you figure out. I can repair these boards most of the time.
1helpful
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Reset model smu7052uc

press the rinse & hold/quick wash buttons at the same time until dishwasher begins to cycle then release. Dishwasher will run quickly through the rest of the cycles (without starting them) back to ground zero.
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Bosch dishwasher continues to run (Model SHX46A02UC)

This is too common a problem with these units. I have written a guide to help folks out with it. Find it here.
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Bosch SHX46A02Uc/21

it is likely a control module issue. I will take mine apart this weekend to verify what others have said: solder joint on circuitboard burns out from possible overheating, and DW doesnt go into rinse cycle. Try rinse and hold cycle to see if it stops on its own. mine does, but the other cycles which require the rinse to go to 156 degrees do not; the continue to run until I cancel and drain.
Feb 01, 2009 • Dishwashers
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Bosch SHX46A02UC-21

float switch is in the flood position and the drain pump is running.. there is water under the dishwasher or that switch is stuck up..
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