Lens arbitrarily stops working for temporary time frames. aperture display becomes "00". shutter display is frozen. stabilizer becomes erratic with large amplitude motions. sometimes camera battery icon shows empty. shutting off the lens stabilizer and/or the lens autofocus doesn't help. camera is canon A2 (film), this doesn't happen with other lenses. problem sometimes disappears after lens is removed from camera and re-attached, can then re-appear. recently the lens PCB was replaced, but phenomenon re-appeared.
Have you tried this same lens with other cameras? Do you have another camera body you can try? or perhaps a friend with a Canon EOS Camera?
Also try the following please:
Remove the lens. Look at the lens mount contacts, take a Cotton swap with some rubbing Alchol & clean the contacts very well, both on the lens and the camera body.
Is your camera reading the lens aperture range correctly (at least most of the time)?
Also since you replaced the PCB on the lens, isn't it under warranty?
Let me know if this works. Thank you, AJ.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Yes. The shutter speed controls how long light is allowed to pass through the lens, while the f/stop controls how much light is passed through the lens. If you change one, the other must also change to keep the total amount of light the same.
Think of filling a swimming pool with water. You can use a small garden hose, but it will take a long time. Or you can use a large fire hose and take less time.
A larger aperture (smaller f/number) produces a narrower depth of field, so that objects in front of and behind the subject become blurry. This is generally desirable for portraits, so that the face stands out from the background. A smaller aperture (larger f/number) produces a wider depth of field, so that more objects are sharper. This is generally desirable for scenic and landscapes, so that objects in the foreground (flowers, trees, family members) are just as sharp as the objects in the background (mountains, ocean).
There is no communications between the camera and lens. When using a set up like this everything becomes manual and you must remember to stop down the aperture to your taking aperture before releasing the shutter. I don't know what camera or format you are going to use this lens with but assuming it is a digital "bridge" (a camera that is between an amateur and a pro) or a professional the sequence would be the same. To view, focus and compose the lens would be set in this case F2, to select the correct light meter reading the lens is set (stopped) down to the taking aperture. The modes I've used for this have been mostly manual but lately I found that "AV" worked equally well and the camera metered to the proper exposure. Most times the camera was mounted on a tripod and the shutter was released with a electronic shutter release. Sequence for taking a photo for me anyway was/is (with the camera mounted on a tripod) focus, compose, stop down to taking aperture, check metering and release the shutter if in AV mode or manual mode to set the shutter speed and release the shutter. You will find that all makes of digital cameras will function differently so what sequence works for one won't work on others. This meaning I have had digital cameras that wouldn't meter through anything other then the lenses meant specifically for them. Problems that I've had. Forgetting to stop down to taking aperture (like Duh), not fine focusing (manual), not trusting the in focus indicator, forgetting that the viewfinder is/was only 94% of the scene. Once a little time has been spent with a lens set up like this the rewards are far beyond the trivial annoyances. Have fun with it
When using a zoom or telephoto lens, it's just like using a telescope - a little bit of movement in your hand makes the image jump around a lot. If you take a picture under these conditions it is often blurry. There are 5 things to improve the image quality:
1. Use the fastest shutter speed possible.
2. Since a fast shutter speed captures less light, you also need a wider aperture (that's the size of adjustable curtain in the lens known as the f-stop, a smaller f-stop number indicates a wider aperture). The wider aperture allows more light in.
3. Use a tripod. This works for telescopes and cameras.
4. Bright available light. On a sunny day, there is lots of light available, so you can use a fast shutter speed and still get enough light.
5a. On film cameras use "fast film". This film is more sensitive, meaning it requires less light so you can use a faster shutter speed.
5b. On some digital cameras there is Image Stabilization. The image is electronically stabilized - this is like using a tripod to hold the image still, while allowing the camera to move around a little bit.
I hope you found this helpful
Quite right too. When the M42 adaptor is fitted there is absolutely no exchange of information between the lens and the body: M42 lenses pre-date all of those later developments. Your camera will also be unable to stop down the lens automatically when taking the picture, most M42 lenses don't even stop down automatically when connected to an M42 body.
You need to do things the old-fashioned way. Your camera needs to be set to meter manually, shutter priority mode may also be used. In manual mode you focus the lens as normal with the aperture ring set to the lowest aperture number (i.e.aperture is wide open). You then make sure that the lens in in manual mode as well and stop down to whatever you want, if the image remains bright enough then you can adjust the precise focus using the hyperfocal principle if you like which takes advantage of the increased depth of field of a stopped down lens. In manual mode, you then tell the camera what aperture you have set (read it from the lens barrel) and set the shutter speed using the camera's light meter to guide you. If using shutter priority mode then the camera will choose the shutter speed for you. Check everything is set as you intend and press the shutter.
It all sounds long winded but is exactly how many of the world's greatest photos were taken and soon becomes second nature. You also learn far more about the relationship between aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings and will be able to talk about reciprocity like you know about it!
aperture 00, that means the body don't identify the lens, or there is no lens. try to see if the lens contacts are in order. Try another lens, par exemple you can go to a shop and try the most beautiful lens you ever seen for free.
You can use the film lens with the D80, but it it not react to the same settings as it did with the film body, the multiplier factor for the focal length is going to be different and it may be stopped down a bit. When you are shooting in aperture mode are you adjusting your shutter and ISO? The camera and the lens have to be communicating the same info to one another inorder for it to work. First set the camera back to auto mode the check the shot to see the settings (f-stop, shutter speed) test them with different ISO's to see what the camera thinks the settings should be, then go back to manual on the camera and lens and try the shutter priority mode with the aperture ring set at the 2.8 to see if it works then change to Aperture mode with the same settings that can take the picture. If it doesn't work keep in mind som of the older D lenses will drop some functionality (like aperture) in certain configurations. You can verfify compatibilty of your specific lens on Nikon's support site.
Try it on bulb, and open the f and check it is working properly the problem might be the computer inside the camera and there's no replacement spare parts, but yoou canfind another ody and swap the computer.
This is an easy one. With the battery grip attached, you can only have either Shutter Priority or Aperture Priority work properly. You can change it with the custom function settings of the camera. So you can change it to work with Aperture Priority if you use that more so then shutter priority won't work.