My in-line fuse blew so I replaced it. Then after I replaced it my amp played for about two minutes. Then It totally quit. I checked the in-line fuse and it is fine. I then checked the amps fuses are they were blown. I then replaced the amp's fuses and when I went to put the new ones in the immediatly blew. What is going on? Any suggestions?
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Re: Car Amp keeps blowing fuses
The reason why fuses blow is that the current is too much. Is the fuse rating according to the specs ? If yes then ...
One or more output power transistor (or audio power IC) may be shorted.
have it checked before replacing another fuse as this might cause more damage.
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Could be a shorted inverter blew fuse and unit dead. Or bad fuse holder got fuse hot and melted fuse so now unit dead. Must check fuse first and if bad replace and try, if it blows as soon as it tries to heat probably bad inverter. If it works for a long while then quits maybe bad fuse holder not grabbing fuse tightly making it over heat. So then bad by temperature not amperage.
Because some component in the amp is failing/failed and drawing too much current. The amp needs a repair shop. Poking around without knowing what you're doing can expose you to leather voltage. Don't do it.
If the fuse is correct ( check manual) it shouldn't blow under normal operation. Once in while a fuse will break internally and thus blow the fuse. look close at the blown fuse If it is a "violent" blow (totally black inside) then you have an overload condition. I would use an ohm meter to check the connection to the speakers. Usually it should be between 8 ohms and 4 ohms if the number is lower than 4 ohms your speakers or wiring are putting to much of a load on the amp. If the fuse was not a "violent" blown fuse then replace with a new fuse of the exact proper value. many amps use an MDL fuse that is a slow blow fuse and has much different in circuit function than a ACG fuse so use only the exact proper furse that the manufacture recomends. If the load (speaker and wiring) is correct and the fuse is correct and still blows then you have a component problem and the amp will need repair
please dont keep replacing fuses...its a short in the actual amp circuit..causing this issue...yes contact orange or go to a retail dealer...for quicker repair or replacement...also google product brand and model for any type of recall..for fire hazards....
Red wire to R on thermostat red on furnace and red on heat pump Same with white except w1 on thermostat. Blue to common on thermostat common of furnace (probably brown but will be marked) and blue to common on heat pump. yellow to Y on thermostat and straight to heat pump. Orange to O on thermostat and straight to heat pump. If wired correctly with no shorts fuse problem should be solved. commonly people leave enough wire exposed inside the t-stat for wires to short together. This will blow the fuse. Hope this helps. I understand the frustration.
Sometimes the manufacturers code the vehicle's computer to come on to remind owners it is due for servicing. Disconnect the negative battery cable for about 15 minutes. This should reset the computer and cause it to initiate a diagnostic cycle. If the light comes back on, check the fuses. My car blew a 40 amp fuse each time I hit the brakes too hard, causing the light to come on. Although it is not recommended, I changed it to a 50 amp fuse and the light never came on again.
You have a bad wire which rubbed on the plastic housing to the engine block near the starter mower which causes a short and blows the fuse. I have the same tractor and this happened to mine also. The wire is red.